Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
|
|
|
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
10-02-2003, 07:19 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flanders,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters 351 Windsor 405 HP
Posts: 1,043
|
|
Not Ranked
What's next?
Well doors are finally fitted and glassed in,fender liners too. What's next? Paint shop I guess,however body shop man says just keep sanding!! I hate sanding yuk!
|
10-03-2003, 07:08 PM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Carrollton,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: JBL now SOLD
Posts: 1,735
|
|
Not Ranked
Art, are you hand sanding the
whole thing? Or are you using some power boards?
And.....how many hours do you estimate you will spend on sanding. Just curious since I am a bit behind you.
John
|
10-04-2003, 09:06 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flanders,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters 351 Windsor 405 HP
Posts: 1,043
|
|
Not Ranked
Try two days on the lower piece of the radiator intake,
and at least 2 days making the hood scoop right and three weeks on the rest of the body,especially the mold ridges that run the full length of the body. Then there were the high and low spots to fix Argghhh!! I hate body work,but a poor man's got to do what he's got to do.
|
10-04-2003, 08:29 PM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Carrollton,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: JBL now SOLD
Posts: 1,735
|
|
Not Ranked
Sanding
I agree there are few jobs more nasty than sanding fiberglass, except sanding fiberglass on a hot, humid day like we get here in Dallas.
I thought if you were using a "power board" electric sander, it might cut down some of the three weeks, especially on the longer stretches of body - getting the highs and lows out.
John
|
10-05-2003, 09:15 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Casa Grande, Arizona,
Posts: 78
|
|
Not Ranked
Ran my own body shop for a number of years. Nothing like sanding and sanding and sanding a fiberglass body. When you think you are done, your not. That's why I sold my body shop and put 16 years of education to work. Still have all my air sanders, air files, DA's etc. and will be putting them to good use shortly. Just a suggestion. Prior to block sanding first lightly and I mean lightly spray primer on the car (From a spray can is fine) and then block sand. It will show up the high and low spots and make the process faster.
|
10-06-2003, 05:30 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
|
|
Not Ranked
Before sanding ANY fiberglass body wipe it down with ACETONE! This is a critical step and your body man will love you for it.
Do NOT count on the manufacturer to totally clean up the body after it comes out of the mold. The body will have a slight covering of "mold release" on it. If it's not clean, and you start to sand all you are doing is melting the release agent. What happens then is the release agent will actually be forced deep into the glass. The final results, which wont show up until the paint or even the last coat of clear is put on, are "fisheyes", craters, or even what's worse, poor adhesion!
DV...this weeks tips for the homebuilders
|
10-06-2003, 07:04 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flanders,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters 351 Windsor 405 HP
Posts: 1,043
|
|
Not Ranked
DV,I wiped it down with Alcohol,should I still use acetone?
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:27 AM.
Links monetized by VigLink
|