Full width roll bar

[J. T. Toad]

Has anybody mounted the 'new' full width roll bar?

[Bill E]

check out my galley.These,s are not CR,s but the bar would fit just fine

[Double Venom]

JT-
Don now has the 4 points in the making. Jusy took delivery of two. Give him a call, I think he's ready to ship em'.
DV

[dscott]

DV, JT Toad has one of the 4 points that I sent to him that was backordered from CBE. I have not tried to mount one here. I think this was originally the design you made. Can you help him out with the mounting.
Don

[J. T. Toad]

DV,
the issues I am having are this ( I feel I must be missing something)

With the main hoop positioned on the aft side of the '3x3' frame cross member, two issues have arrived...

1) the main hoop when 'squared/bolted' has a forward slant to it

2) the down bars do not clear the coil overs

3rdly) I have found the frame rail support does not contact it at flat angle (I figure I could torch/bend the bar though and bolt it up, but not before I can clear the coil overs)

Thanks

[Double Venom]

JT..
Let me try and get some photo's today, maybe that will help.

DON: I just looked at the one I am installing (now). The new type rear coil overs may infact present a problem. I'll bolt one up and see what we've got.

Stay tuned........
DV

[J. T. Toad]

any ideas?
anything?

[dscott]

JT, I just talked to Ed. He said he hasn't got back to you because of the illness with his daughter. He did get the rear coilovers to work but using a smaller spacer at the top. He said he reduced it to 1/2" and that gave him the clearance. I threw out Jay's design on the full width roll bar and I am making a jig for a new one that I promise will fit. I'm sorry about the delay from Ed but he needed to take care of his family. Trust me I'm learning as I go. Dependence on other people is not an option anymore.
Don

[Ron61]

Don,

If you don't mind could you post a picture of your roll bar? Boy, do I ever know what you mean by not being able to rely on people any more. I have a full width rollbar, but it is just a two point and no longer legal on track. They want a minimum 3 point and prefer a 4 point. I think at my age it would be easier to just buy a street legal car, Mustang Cobra, Corvette, or whatever, that I could use on my rare days at the track any more.

Thanks,

Ron

[J. T. Toad]

Ron,
come on down, I have one sitting right here, just ready for your inspection. Do you have coilovers? this will fit perfectly and easily retrofittable. Come on down, we can do it in no time. Yes, just come on down, no problem. I would guess ummmm 3 hours. just need to come on down... and whilst you are here, you can finish mine.


seriously, if you would like a picture of it, I would be glad to takeone for you.

actually, here you have mail (in a little bit, I have soem time today NBD)

[dscott]

Ron, I don't have a picture of the new roll bar we are making. It will look just like what Bill has but it will fit properly. I feel bad for Bill, he got caught up in a mess and hasn't had the best experience. I got a roll bar from someone that said it was a perfect fit and I believed them. I had a jig made and we started producing them only to find out they don't fit very well. Makes me look bad and only gets the customers unhappy. I;ll have the new roll bar finished in about a week.
Don

[Double Venom]

Sorry for my slowness.

JT... remove the upper billett shim from the shock assembly completely. Replace with three large washers instead. ( Or if you like you can have the upper billett shim machined down to +/- 1/4" and still use it.)

If your frame is drilled for two shock mounting holes, use the lower one. If not, drill a new hole below the original hole as far down as you can, and still be able to install the 'nut' on the shaft.

On the lower connection go ahead and use the supplied spacer.
This modification will allow you to use the roll bar Don sent. It is still close to the shock when installed but no worry's, it will work.

Now as far as having a 'lean' once the main hoop is mounted, this can be corrected with small shims. The 'U' shims suppled with the kit will work just fine.

I did borrow a camera but it doesn't seem to wrok well in our 7 degree temperature! Heck, I don't work well in 7 degree temperatures!

Call me if I can be of any further help..I am in the shop everyday...cold or not!. 721 425-6823.
DV

[Double Venom]

Ron,
I've got a great 3rd leg that we use on the DV II's and not only is it SCCA approved it can be installed. OR removed in minutes. Most of the guys just leave it in though. It's not in the way of the passenger and actually is used for a 'hand hold' .
DV
ps..sent you an e-mail on your shcematic for the Comet. Think you will like it...Oh, forget about the kiss!

[Ron61]

D.V.

I received the e-mail and have already sent an answer requesting the schematic. Thanks so much for your help.
Now that 3rd leg that you have in the picture looks exactly like what a couple of the guy's here put on theirs. Theirs bolt to the main roll bar and go through the floor on the passenger side and attach to the frame under there. Is this the way that one works?
Also since I was in for overkill when younger, I had my roll bar built here at a place and it is 3" diameter. The rest went to 3 1/2 inches after seeing mine. Your's looks like the easy way to make mine track legal again in that respect. To many new rules over the past 8 years have made mine completely illegal for anything but driving schools and just open track fun. Oh well, at my age I guess that is probably a good thing.

Ron

[Double Venom]

Ron,
The key is the upper attachment to the cross over bar. It is machined from 3 1/2" solid round shaft. The center is bored out to within .001 of the main cross over bar. Then it is cut in half-lenghtwise. Then threaded from front to back in all four corners for a 5/16's allen head bolt. The bolt heads are counter sunk so nothing protudes past the 'donut'.

To the left front of the right seat, where the main inner frame rail goes by the tunnel, we simply take a 3'16's angle approximatly 3"s long, drill holes on all four corners for 3/8's bolts, then drill and tap the frame to mount the plate to it.

Attach the 'donut' to the upper cross over bar, mount the angle plate to the frame, (you can go right through the carpet) then simply measure the lenght of the 'down bar', weld to the front side of your donut and ot the plate on the frame and your done.

Takes less than 5 minutes to install/remove and nothing is left behind.

I do hope this makes sense!
DV

[Ron61]

D.V.

It all makes sense. But if you ever saw me near a welder or trying to measure and cut anything, you would run for your life. I have less aptitude for that type stuff than any other person alive. Darn, I wish I was close to you. There is no place around here that I will let touch one of my cars for anything more than replacing a radiator or something like that. And then I am either there or I take it out and they do the cleaning or soldering. Some people just have no talent at things like this and I have the least of anyone.

Ron

[Double Venom]

Hey, it's a plus 9 degrees! Come on over.
DV

[J. T. Toad]

ahem...

COME ON DOWN!

[Ron61]

J.T.,

Since you are much closer, what if we practice on yours? And you don't have the paint on yet so we can't mess that up. And after we get the holes cut, do not ask me what the hole in the trunk lid is for.

Ron

[J. T. Toad]

Who told you about the holes in the trunk? oh you mean the lid...

why not? I already have to repair some why not more?

YES, EXACTLY! I see you now understand FULLY!

17:00 this today then?

sounds good to me.

excellent.

and don't worry, repaint is easy, or so I have been told