New distributor gear from Comp Cams - Page 2

fxbill · #21 (**permalink**) 03-11-2005, 02:22 AM

Good tip on the oiling, but I believe you are incorrect on the Comp Cam gears. They are definitely not cast. They are hardened and require either a bronze or steel gear. I have the remains of a 351 that ran a stock dist gear for a total of 11 miles before it destroyed the engine! It was an expensive lesson.

Just checked on my new engine since the timing cover is still off. Also with a little good luck my timing gear is not solid and I was able to get an Allen through it to the plug. I can see where it will help. The spray/stream will be only an inch or so from the gear and in direct line with it. Nice tip!

jeffko · #22 (**permalink**) 03-11-2005, 09:03 PM

fxbill, what a bummer to hear about your engine loss. that really sucks, however I have called both MSD and Comp Cams and they both swear that the cast gear that is stock on the MSD distributor is the right application for my Comp cam. The cam is definetly cast ductile iron that is ground to spec. Take a look at your cam and you will see it is cast with the exception of the machined surfaces. The cams gear is not seperate from the cam as it is also ground from the cast blank much like a engine block or most crankshafts are cast and then machined. A billet steel blank is machined on every surface and shows no dull or black casting surfaces. I think what you expierienced was a part failure due to defect. Give them a call and let us know what you find out.

Jeff

ItBites · #23 (**permalink**) 03-11-2005, 10:22 PM

jeffko,

Usually, hydraulic and solid flat-tappet cams are ductile iron, however, roller cams are all billet steel. You must be running a non-roller cam. I've used comp cams roller cams and they have all been billet steel units.

fxbill · #24 (**permalink**) 03-11-2005, 11:32 PM

Comp told me that I had to use a hardened steel gear or bronze. All three cams that I have run from them have required it and they've all been roller units.
Thanks for the engine wishes...it's in 351 heaven now, got converted to a 393 and unfortunately the recent valve drop cracked a cylinder so it's history forever. I don't feel like investing in a sleeve job.. The new 446 Dart block should be fun though. The older I get the more expensive the toys get!
Used your trick on the galley plug today. You're right...it's directly in line with the dist gear. Should work well and I'm sure the cam won't miss the small stream of oil.

jeffko · #25 (**permalink**) 03-12-2005, 07:29 PM

Well I don't know what to say now. It would seem that we are getting two different stories from the same company. I will call them again Monday. I am using an extreme energy roller cam and it sure looked cast to me. I was all over comp cams web site and did not find any definitive answers one way or the other. For sure calling again!

fxbill · #26 (**permalink**) 03-12-2005, 08:25 PM

Ahhh.... We're both right!...or neither of us is right depending on how you look at it...
I just checked the catalog too and they have footnotes.. (#5) where a steel gear is needed. They also state that bronze gears are not needed on nodular cams and that not all roller cams require it... They also say to call them to find out what you have.
Here's my first cam from them.. the gear eater. It's obviously billet. I just checked the new cam I got from them....It's not! I don't care for a company that mixes and matches like that. In any case I'm going to be running the composite gear so it really doesn't matter for my application, but this is a good lesson for me and possibly others about to do the same thing. Don't assume!
Thanks for the input Jeff and ItBites... I certainly learned from it.

fxbill · #27 (**permalink**) 03-12-2005, 08:39 PM

Here's the gear eater... Look at the edge on this....straight from Comp. You could shave with it.. Wish I'd known about burnshing the gear when I bought this!

The Fab Ford · #28 (**permalink**) 04-12-2005, 02:41 PM

I have compiled a thread from some of my discoveries and pastes of posts from this thread and one from Ford Trucks forum on this Ford Muscle thread. http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/view...0236&forum=1&9
I want to expose this problem to as many people as possible to keep other from going through the grief that I did.

FXBill, Do you mind if I copy that picture and paste it in other forums on this subject? It's for the greater good lol.
Tom

fxbill · #29 (**permalink**) 04-12-2005, 05:42 PM

By all means... be my guest. I can provide you with higher res alternates as well if you like. Just let me know.... Also would like to see the thread when you have it going...

The Fab Ford · #30 (**permalink**) 04-12-2005, 06:34 PM

Thanks I posted the link to my thread in my last post, here it is again
http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/view...236&forum=1&12

My camera just died so I cant take a pic of my gear. Your pic was worth a thousand words, thank you very much for posting it.
Tom

The Fab Ford · #31 (**permalink**) 04-12-2005, 07:25 PM

deleted, irrelevant info

dscott · #32 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 08:08 AM

I think sometimes people look for solutions to problems and don't take the simple approach. The saying that sometimes the simple solutions are the best is true in this case. I have not had a problem with Ford cams for years. We use cams from many different manufacturers and the solution has been the same on all of them. Before we install, we burnish the cam on a wire wheel. Like I said we haven't had a problem for years. I do believe the manufacturers need to address the problem but their solution by creating a new gear isn't necessary. I can only speak from experience, but it's worked for us.
Don

The Fab Ford · #33 (**permalink**) 04-13-2005, 10:51 AM

The solution is easy, trying to diagnose the problem without tearing the engine down wasn't. I would have scratched my head for a lot longer time if I hadn't found this discussion. I thought I was keeping it simple by measuring dist shaft end-play, gear height, oil supply etc.

On the Speed Pro cam that I first had in the motor, they didn't even turn the rear face of the gear. The cast surface extends all the way to the top of the gear teeth. If you run your finger along the leading knife edge of the gear, (culprit zone) not only is it sharp but it has an abrasive quality due to the surface texture making the machined surface that interfaces it, irregular.
Tom

Shelboss · #34 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007, 07:46 AM

Here is Greg Dupree's web site that Rick referenced for purchasing the composite distributor gear:
http://www.tritecmotorsports.com/Car...utor_Gears.htm
I talked to Greg yesterday about the durability of this gear with a wet sump oiling system. He said that if I record the mileage and inspect the gear after a year of service and am not happy with how it looks, the company would refund my money! I ordered one for $75 plus shipping :-)
The modified PET material that this gear is made out of is used in a few GM applications as well. They have played with the amount of carbon loading from when they first started making these to make them harder without it getting too brittle.