Another Rear Caliper Question

[petek]

OK folks, another brake caliper question.

The new pads are (of course) wider than the old pads. Normally I'd just push the caliper piston back in and make room for the new pads. But the rear caliper has a hand brake cable.

From what I understand I am suppose to rotate the piston clockwise 180 degrees at a time, "screwing" it back into the cylinder. The book says to use a pair of needle nose pliers.

Try as I might I can't get that darn piston to rotate.

So what am I doing wrong?

[dscott]

Pete, on some of those calipers I've had to remove the adjustment arm from the back side and rotate the adjustment screw to get the piston in all the way.
Don

[trularin]

Turn the piston all the way in. It will settle to a postion where it no longer goes in, it is just you turning it.

Then, place a piston jack in the caliper and push the piston back as far as it will go.

Place both pads into the caliper and measure the distance. Check this distance to the rotor. There should be a small difference between the two.

Now, to get the parking brake to work, turn the piston out until it rubs when the caliper with the pads it put over the rotor.

Once it will rub, you should be able to turn the rotor with a little friction. Turn the rotor with your hand and push the parking brake lever. the rotor should lock 1/3 the way in.

Do the same to both sides.

Hope this helps

[petek]

Thanks fellas.

Had the stupid thing rotated like I wanted it to I wouldn't have had a problem. But since it wouldn't rotate I figured I must be doing something wrong.

Time to take it off of the car so I can get to it better.

[Jack21]

Sorry I couldn't help. Had mine apart once to swap organic pads for semi-metallics. Didn't have to twist them.

With any mileage, rear calipers can be a "Mutha". On my grocery getters with 4wdb, I take the calipers in as cores, and get reconditioned replacements.

[bfreer]

Petek,

[bfreer]

Petek,

I also have strruggled with the screw in piston. They make a tool that attaches to a ratchet to screw them in. I used a cordless drill with the adaptor on low speed/high power setting to screw them in. It was much easier. It may also help to loosen the bleed valve, to give the fluid somewhere to go when you screw it in. Just bleed the brakes after.

Brian

[dgcomps]

I have used a "tool" that fits onto a standard 3/8 square drive that I purchased for $10. You will need an extension. This "tool" is square in shape and has several knobs for different calipers. It worked great. I can supply a photo if needed.

[petek]

Well I got the stupid pistons twisted back in. I ended up removing the return spring and pulling out the actuator arm. Wiggling everything was enough to get the piston to twist with some effort.

The next challenge was that darn spring! It took me 25 minutes with a 10" channel lock to finally get the spring compressed and back into place.

Oh, the front brakes (new ones that Clois sold to me over a year ago), went in with new rotors and calipers in about 20 minutes - total!

Fun, fun, fun!