front suspension

[tcrist]

JAC,
Looks like they sent you the same kit that they sent me. I was lucky. I did not have to cut my cross member. What did you use to bolt the upper A arm with? Mine came with a bolt an a Nylock nut. I figured that would be to hard for the alignment guy to deal with so I made my own T-nut to slide in the slots for adjustment, then added a lock washer to the bolt to lock everything together. If you want I can send you a print of the T-nut. I have a Classic Roadsters LTD from the early 90's. I am guessing that Don has changed a few things on the frame and all of this will work on new kits better.

Terry

[MaSnaka]

JAC, Did you just get your A-arms and shocks? I have had a set of both on order since Feb. and have been patiently waiting. After several calls to CRII I am still waiting. I hope all is good when they eventually arrive. You have me wondering though. John

[JAC]

Terry,
My kit is a 2006 and it came with the T-nuts but I had to file the slots a little and grind the weld to get the upper to move freely. Thanks for the offer on the T-nuts though.

John,
I got the A-arms and shocks when I picked up the kit. I waited 8 months for the last piece for my kit, so hang in there. Are you up grading or starting a new build?

[MaSnaka]

Jac, I am upgrading a '97 CR. My tires hit the front fenders during moderate conditions, dips and turns especially. I thought having the adjustability and stiffer spring would be the right fix. I have a FE390 which sits heavy and ground clearance is low as well. I just learned from Pete at CRII that the parts are being shipped tomorrow. So I will be in business soon. I just hope the fit is as easy as they say because I don't want to become a brain surgeon in the process. John

[JAC]

John,
Glad to hear your parts are on the way. Hope everything fits too.

[tcrist]

JAC,
I bought my coilover kit in 2006. No instructions at all. When I called Don he told me that I had to cut the spacers that came with the kit to the correct dimensions. He was suprised about the alignment of the lower a arm tubes where the shock bolt goes through. I am a sheetmetal mechanic by trade and I know about how the material moves when welding. It would have been nice if RCC (I believe that is who Don got my tublar control arms thru) would have checked their parts better. Wasn't to big of a problem. Just got a long drill the correct size and reamed it.

[JAC]

tcrist,
Still, a guy expects the parts that you buy from the same company to fit without modifications. I'm lucky that the guy building my kit is a machinist by trade. He machined the spacers for the shocks, none came with the kit. I'm helping with the build, but without his many talents, I would have probably thrown in the towel. The part that realy sucks is this stuff is making the build take longer than it should. BUT,
This car is going to be awsome when it's done.

[Smitty1]

Thanks for all the help. The front suspension is in and working fine now that the the right parts are in it.

[MaSnaka]

Good to hear Smitty. My stuff arrived this week and I plan on doing the same as soon as I get some time here. Especially this weekend being Mother's day...must pay tribute. John

[cobraduke]

If your shocks or mounts are bending at the top, you are probably getting some side loading due to contact between the coil over upper or and lower spring collars and the spacers or and axle. The clearance between the axle and lower collar and the upper collar and tappered spacer and frame needs to be checked through the complete rear suspension travel. You can do this by supporting the car (lift or jack stands), removing the springs and reintalling the shocks with collars and using a jack to move the rear axle through it's full travel. The reason you can't just check it a full extension (hanging) is that the four link causes the pinion angle to change (rotates the axle) as well as moves the axle forward slightly as the suspension compresses. The causes the clearance gaps at the bottom and top to close up- more than you'd think

[dvcobra]

Don, what about the carrera setup with tubular control arms that you used to recommend from Bethania Garage? The only problem I have had with this setup is the adjustability of the shocks for the track. I have to remove everything to adjust and then my corner weight balancing is all off. I also haven't been able to find a spring compressor that works in the limited space I have to work with. It takes a long time to adjust the springs at 1/8 turn at a time.

[dscott]

I know the springs are tight when adjusting. I always lift the car and take as much weight as I can off the suspension. I don't know of any compressor that will work in the small space. You may want to apply some type of lubricant on the adjuster.
Don

[MrIgor]

I am about to order the kit. which coilover kit should I get for the front, control arms? Should I go for adjustable? and what suspension should I use for the back?

[dvcobra]

I used the tubular control arm setup with Carrera shocks from Bethania Garage. They also recommended the pro shocks and different springs in the rear, however, the rear coil overs are nice also. You might ask if there is another shock that is adjustable via a dial so you don't have to remove the coilover everytime you go from track to street.

[Double Venom]

Coming in late on this but as Don says, take all the weight of the front end- I know this is a pain, but disassemble the lower part of each shock, put a generous helping of "Alum- Anti sieze" on the threads of the shock and it will make adjusting them a breeze in comparison to bare threads- reassemble and test all you want.
DV

[dvcobra]

sorry, posted to wrong thread