Soft Top Ferrules, when to install?

TWOOD · #1 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 03:15 PM

OK, I've have the car just about ready to go to paint. But, I have not received my backordered soft top. Including the 6 metal ferrules which get placed into the body and doors for the bow and side curtains to mount.
Now, you would think I managed to take a least ONE photo of this detail at any one of the 5 DV Spring Flings or London Cobra Shows I have attended..........but no. The manual doesn't help either.
What do these ferrules look like?
When inserted into the body and doors, are they flush?
Is it best to insert and secure them prior to paint or can this be done after paint?
Any advice or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 02-12-2008, 07:18 PM

TWood,
Please put them in before you paint! Once in they will not fit flush and need to be ground to match the body and the doors. Doing this after the body is painted without new damage is almost impossible! I use about 3" long stainless steel tubing and use a slight coat of marglass/duraglass on the outisde of the tubes to fix them in place. Keeps the tubes from sliding out when you muscle the bows back out!
DV

Double Venom · #3 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 05:08 AM

PS- for the above entry,

Since I have more time right now, before you goop up your ferrules, I sugest you use a grinder or better yet a small cutoff tool if you have one and cut small grooves on the outside of the ferrules. I use a hand held cut off tool/wheel and cut three grooves all the way around the ferrule on the outside then glue them in place. The point is, when dried it is almost impossible to be able to pull the ferrules out. You don't want them sliding around when removing the bows.
DV

TWOOD · #4 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 07:35 AM

Just what I needed to know. Great suggestion about ribbing the OD of the ferrules to increase the bond strength. Thanks!
Now the next question. I started the build two years ago and the last thing I was concerned about (until now...Duh) was getting my back ordered soft top (with ferrules).
Now that I'm in the very last steps of getting it ready to paint I'm realizing I should have pushed to get those ferrules from CRII. Obviously, with Don's current dilemma, I cannot get them from him (just now).

If I make my own ferrules, what would be the ID of the tubing....OR the OD of the material for the bows? The OD of the tubing I can measure from the holes in the body.

Calbullet · #5 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 08:29 AM

Twood, try Finishline Accessories, they have ferrules in their catalog

Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 10:08 AM

Calbullitt,
Sorry Finishline's will not work. The CR cobra(all years) go into the body and doors at a fairly sharp angle and are not perpindicular to the surface.
The ID of the tube is 3/8's. Dons bows are now powdercoated and you will need to bore the tubes out a little =BEFORE= installing them. A simple running of a drill bit through them BEFORE installing will make it easier for the bows to fit in.
Good luck on the top, I've been waiting for over three years! But put the pins in anyway.
DV
(EDIT) Do NOT put the top pins into the body until you have the top!

SLHetal · #7 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 01:38 PM

In all of my roadster/convertible restorations I have always fitted the windshield, side curtains, top bows, top, ferrels, and Tenax/Lift-a-Dot fastners to the body PRIOR to painting. If possible, I liked to let the top stay erected on the car and allowed to sit out in the strong sunlight (depends on where you live) off and on for a few weeks to ensure the fit stays the same. Then I removed all of them for the painting process. No surprises or problems after that procedure.
Sam

Double Venom · #8 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 03:25 PM

SLHetal,
You might be doing OEM/Factory tops but I have never had two tops with the "Lift-A-Dots" all in the identical posistion from top to top. If only one "Dot" is so much as a 1/4" off then at best you will have a 1/4" buckle in the top or in worst case scenario the convertible "Dot" wont reach the pin...causing another hole to be drilled in a painted body. If I have the top then by all means completely mount it before painting and remove for painting. My post above strictly speaking -until- you have the top in hand do not drill the body for the pins.
Sorry if I was misleading.
DV

TWOOD · #9 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 03:58 PM

OK,...I'm getting the picture.
Here's what I guessing I would need to do.
The 6 holes, for the ferrules, were already drilled into the doors and body (from CRII) when I received it.
My top, and ferrules, are 2 years on back order (and no immediate hope of getting it soon, considering the legal situation in which Don Scott is currently struggling).

If I can obtain SS tubing I can fabricate and install the ferrules per DV's instructions. Then I can proceed with getting the car painted.
I would then have to deal with accurate placement and installation of the lift-a-dots as best I can, when I receive the soft top.
What do you think, anybody? DV? Better idea, anyone?
Tom

Double Venom · #10 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 06:57 PM

T...
Exactly. Putting the pins in when you have the top is a piece of cake. Let me know if I can be of help.
DV

TWOOD · #11 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 09:43 AM

DV,
I can get 304 Stainless, .500" OD and .4375 (7/16") ID in 12" lengths from McMaster-Carr for $6.33.
Using 3/8" bow from CRII I would have:
.0625" (1/16")clearance or .03125" (1/32") each side.
I'll guess that the powder paint millage wouldn't eat up all of the clearance.
I do not know the relation ship between millage and inches.

In your opinion....would this fit OK?....be too sloppy?......too tight?
Thanks once again, Ed. Tom

Double Venom · #12 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 10:23 AM

TWood,
Sounds perfect to me. Cut the tube, place it in a vice, wax a drill bit that is one size to big and bore em out! If you have decimal drills you might even go two drill bit sizes over. Install as we talked then trim the top of each tube to match the body..well done!
DV