Wiring harness re-route?

wetdog · #1 (**permalink**) 02-19-2008, 08:58 AM

The manual calls for the rear harness, tail, license, fuel sender, to go on the outside in some cut up insulated clamps ..would there be any problem in running that part of the harness down through the inside of the trans tunnel ? It seems to me that would be a more logical run , but I wonder if there is a reason for not doing it that way .

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 02-19-2008, 04:07 PM

Wetdog,
May I?
First, if you run the harness on the interior of the frame that leaves the area of the transmission and "driveshaft". You will find this area is very limited in space to begin with, then read all the warnings about using a drive shaft loop. even with a loop if you should break a joint or bust a drive shaft odds are way in favor of the shaft taking out a huge chunk of necessary wiring, let alone causing a major "hot" short and causing a fire.

OK, lets say we take a slight twist and put it just inside the outer frame rail...., now you have to worry about mud, snow build up OR how about just road trash getting flung up and repeating the above step A since it will be at best even with the bottom of the frame?

Not in the book, but I have found if you purchase three of four electrical plastic ties with a sleeve on one end that has a eyelet in it to allow a bolt, screw or even a large rivet through it, attack the tie about an inch from the "TOP". Do not close up the tie until ready to install the harness, just run a couple of clicks on the tie with the harness in place allowing it all to hang loose. When the body is on simply grap the end of the tie, pull sharply pulling the harness up into the body-never to be heard from again? Safe easy and semi permanent.
DV

wetdog · #3 (**permalink**) 02-19-2008, 04:24 PM

thanks , I know of the ties you are talking about I am almost ready to put body on ! any other tips would be appreaciated !! as I hate doing things twice and that manual is pretty vague.

Double Venom · #4 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008, 07:16 AM

Wetdog,

Tips; I could fill two books. With the aftermath of my stroke just writing responses that are readable and understandable are quite the task. Yes, one of the most critical parts that I do is teaching how to mount the body, DOORS, hood and trunk. NOT that the book is wrong but there is always a better way. When done there are NO shims and everything will fit perfectly, but to type just that segment alone here (which I did a long time ago but I fear it has been lost over the years). would take pages. If you want feel free to call me and I will walk you through it if you want. Have paper and pen handy along with a page full of questions you may have.

A few years ago I was approached by a bunch of Cobra guys to hold a school- with my business at that time it was impossible - maybe now, who knows?

9AM to 10:30PM EST 231-869-4608
DV

TWOOD · #5 (**permalink**) 02-21-2008, 05:01 PM

Wetdog,
I did exactly what you are inquiring about. I routed the wires from the dash through a hole in the transmission tunnel in front of the heater discharge. I used high temperature convoluted sleeving (blue stripe @300°) and attached it to the brake and fuel lines with cable ties. Lots of cable ties. The harness is exposed to a drive shaft/universal failure (like DV suggested) in an area of about 6" to 8" (from the end of the trans. to the protection of the steel frame that supports the parking brake. I intend to protect it, in this exposed area, with a SS plate mouinted to the inside of the frame.
When all of the wires from the dash board exit through the fiberglass firewall, above and to the driver side of the trans., the wires split into three groups. One routes to the battery, starter, alternator area. The second routes to the front of the engine via the left inside frame (under the engine mount). The third, obviously, routes to the rear of the car, as described.
I, also, did not care for the route recommended by the manual.
Hope this might help you decide.
I could email you photos. I really need to figure out how to imbed a photo in with this text.

wetdog · #6 (**permalink**) 02-21-2008, 07:40 PM

I would love to see some pics ...there is always more than one way to skin a cat.

Double Venom · #7 (**permalink**) 02-21-2008, 09:15 PM

Ahh, another cat skinned...but if you are using a custom dash it is going to get pretty tight with the radio, heater (You are using a heater -no?). Standard dash I guess you can bury the harness under the carpet.
In all honesty we have never had a problem what so ever running the wires the way they are called for...and one other thing, the harness is made to run in the direction stated unless of course you are using a Painless or other type hearness.
Options: gee-who ever heard of doing it different

.
DV

entropy · #8 (**permalink**) 02-23-2008, 07:12 AM

I also ran my wires through the inside of the trans tunnel. I did this for 2 reasons: There was not enough room between the outside of the frame and the body, and I thought that if the was a side impact the wires would be protected.

Double Venom is the foremost expert on CRII, with the possible exception of Don. I have called him several times for advice, and he is very generous with his time. I see his points, but I think that both methods have their merits.
Howard

TWOOD · #9 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 11:10 AM

Wetdog,
I posted two photos to my gallery for you.
Sorry, I haven't managed to figure out what I'm doing wrong with placing photos right here.

Ronbo · #10 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 03:33 PM

On reading this I would suggest using clamps or even #12 electrical wire to tie the wires down. Nylon tie wraps can degrade over time and become brittle. The UV stablized ones hold up best make sure that's what you have. (just cause they're black doesn't mean they're UV stable) You can get T&B's at most Home Depots.

Definately don't want any wires coming loose to rub / snag on the driveshaft.