Windshield glass is to big

tcrist · #1 (**permalink**) 03-09-2008, 02:27 PM

I was attempting to install a windshield that I bought from Finishline and it is about 1/4" to wide. I am going to have to take it to a glass shop and have it trimed to match the windshield that i am replacing. Is this a standard when replacing the windshields? Nothing against finishline. They ordered from Whosale Wherehouse which is the same place that Don said that he gets his glass.

Terry

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 03-09-2008, 04:53 PM

Terry,
Do NOT cut the glass. Something else is amiss. All the Cobra windshields are the same. Explain exactly why and where it is too big please.
DV

tcrist · #3 (**permalink**) 03-09-2008, 06:43 PM

DV,
The glass is too long. The height is ok but the width (door to door direction) is too long by about 1/4" (the complete length)and the corner radius on the upper corners are smaller than the origional glass.

Thanx, Terry

entropy · #4 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 05:44 AM

I had the same problem. I shimmed the windshield arms on both sides. Also my doors were too far out form the body; I had the surface of the hinges machined buy 1/4 inches.

Howard

Double Venom · #5 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 05:58 AM

Terry,
It is a rare bird that the windshiled will drop right in place. What is critical is where the 'arms' fit to the cowl bar side plates. It is almost always a little off there fore the need for shims. The arms can be bent very slightly but be carefull and use a wrag around them and bend the lower section using a vice. If you are using the "marked/inscribed" lines on the body for alignement these are always off and are for reference only not the actual cut out areas. (Why this isn't in the manual beats me!) If you bent the arms or they are very close to matching the cowl bar plates do NOT pull them in tight with the bolts! Absolutely use a shim or two. If you draw them in tight to the cowl bar with bolts you will surely snap the glass in time. (This is the biggest reason you will hear that guys have weeks or months driving their cars when one morning they come out and find the windshield cracked from top to botom.)
Call me if I can help. 231-869-4608
DV

entropy · #6 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 06:19 AM

DV,
What do you think about my windshiled problem and door problem? The windshiled had to be shimmed 1/4 of an inch on both sides, but the doors had to be brought in by 1/4 of an inch on both sides. I also ground the door holes as far as could.

Thanks,
Howard

tcrist · #7 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 07:03 AM

DV, Thank you for the info. The origional setup slides right into place so I figure if I have the new glass trimmed to the same size as that, then it should bolt right into place. I hope. I guess that the main thing is that it is not too small. If it is too big it can be shimed.

Thanks again, Terry

Double Venom · #8 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 07:38 AM

OK,
I can fix your door problem and windshield problems, which I think you have figured out but to do the doors where absolutely no grinding or shims are used is more involved than I could possibly type here. A little work but when it is done everything will fit perfectly.

This time, assuming there is another "this" time, I will document with pictures and directions on how I build a CR II from off the delivery truck to back on. Anybody need a CR II Cobra built? If I could learn how I will finally put it all on a DVD too.
DV

entropy · #9 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 09:00 AM

DV,

Thanks so much for the offer. I have every thing together at this time. Do you think that what I did is safe?

Thanks again,
Howard

capteddie · #10 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 09:10 AM

DV...You can build mine

Double Venom · #11 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 10:05 AM

Don't tease me...all it takes is a check! Noted more for my painting/bodywork, want that done too?

DV

capteddie · #12 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Don't tease me...all it takes is a check! Noted more for my painting/bodywork, want that done too?

DV

We should talk. I have the bodywork getting done. I can get the frame to a roller (pretty much front and rear suspension mounted and sitting on wheels) and I have someone doing the prep-work on the body. But I might be in the market to get someone to do the electrical, fuel system, brake/fuel linkage and fit the body to the chassis. Would give you a chance to work on new documentation and I would help you get it to DVD.

Let me know what you think.

Ed

Double Venom · #13 (**permalink**) 03-10-2008, 12:31 PM

Ed,
Just so you know the body needs fitted to the frame and mounted, then the doors, hood and trunk. Body work (rough in) should be donbe while the body is on then taken off to finish and paint. This way everything fits right when re-assembeled. I built any section of the build for years and consider it an honor to do any part of it. Please if any body has questions on their build or having it partially or completely built do not hesitate to call me. Not real good on the electrical-I get through it, but some of you guys have had electrical questions I have to scratch my head over. One thing that just came up that is not in the book or the "painless" wiring book is , [b]do NOT forget that the Ford Solenoid has to have a ground wire attached! It is made for a metal car, not a fiberglass one!
DV
1231-869-4608