fiberglass / Gelcoat paint question

Curt C. · #1 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 01:05 PM

I have the body off my CR (being painted.) and I am cleaning up the chasis. I am planning to paint the frame with VHT self priming epoxy paint which they recommend for the chasis. Can I paint the footwell underside and firewall which are made of fiberglass. They are black already and I assume that is paint? Or is the glecoat colored. Not good at this painting thing.

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 01:49 PM

Curt,
If your talking mainly the "footwel/firewalll", yes it can be painted. (I paint all the firewalls) usually black or the color of the car. All you need to do is rough it up a little, 180 or 120 grit, primer, wet sand with 600 and paint whatever color you want.
DV
PS... OR just scuff it up, (it is gel-coat black) and paint away with the chassis paint!
(If you don't scuff it, it will peel before you even get the body all assembled!

Curt C. · #3 (**permalink**) 05-06-2008, 06:06 PM

DV,

Thanks for the input. How about the frame. I have cleaned the heck out of it (2 cans of gunk, 1/2 gallon of Simple green and 200 shop towels). Do you think I need to rough up the old paint or just hit it with the chasis epoxy paint. The texture of the frame is pretty rough already in most spots.

Double Venom · #4 (**permalink**) 05-07-2008, 03:56 AM

Curt,
Just a little ahead of yourself. Sounds like a good job by any means, but the frame should be scuffed up a little.

First, is your frame powder coated or painted? (Powder Coat needs to be roughed up pretty good!)
Second, have you installed your cowl bar yet?

A very good idea is to actually bolt in the cowl bar, then weld it in. Heck of a safety point incase of a side impact. I know the book doesn't call for it, but it is a great safety precaution if you have a welder.

Either case, are you familiar with 3M scotchgaurd pads? Any Carquest, NAPA,bodyshop supply house carrys them, they come in various grits indicated by color. Red Scotchgaurd pads will work just fine. Even though your frame seems a little rough, the bumps, scratches, etc., are still shiny and reflective. Take a scotchguard pad and wipe or sand the entire frame down. Not real hard but hard enough to know you are biting into the old finish. Now blow it off, wipe it down or take the simple green to it again. Dove soap and hot water will do the same thing with a sponge. Now you are ready for chassis paint.

Post a picture and your results....sounds like a heck of a start.
DV

Curt C. · #5 (**permalink**) 05-07-2008, 04:24 PM

DV,

Got the red Scotchbrite pads - thanks. The chassis is a 1992 car and appears to be painted. Did they do powder coat back then? I will get it scuffed before paint. And yes the cowl is on but not welded. I will perfom this mod too prior to installing the new body. This car has been on the road since 92. Small fender bender (no mechanical damage) required rear clip. I sent you a pic of the damaged car a while ago. Insurance Company and body guy decided to get a whole body instead of messing with the rear clip and trying to match paint, etc.

Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 05-07-2008, 05:13 PM

Damm, I should have remembered!
I think you have a painted frame.
DV

tcrist · #7 (**permalink**) 05-07-2008, 09:11 PM

Mine is a early 90's and the frame paint was so thin it was surface rusting all over the place. It had just over 8k on it when it was disasembled. I do not know what paint they used back then but it was not very good.

Terry

Curt C. · #8 (**permalink**) 05-07-2008, 10:36 PM

DV & Terry,

Hello Gents. Terry, where does your car originate from? My car was sold in QIII 1991 and put on the road on QII 1992. Car was originally sold into KS but moved to NV and remained sinced the mid 90's. My frame is beautiful (after 2 cans Gunk, 1/2 Gallon Simple Green, 200 shop towels, 12 hours labor, etc.) compared to what Terry describes. The frame shows some chips and retains overspray from paintings (2 times). It scuffs easily but is hard to take down to bare metal. Could this old girl have been powder coated? Inovice does not indicate so. I need a definitive test or else will have to call upon Gordon Willingham.

tcrist · #9 (**permalink**) 05-08-2008, 06:47 AM

Curt,
I really do not know. I was told that this was a CR LTD demo car and that the guy that I bought it from bought it from them. DV said that CR LTD did not make demo cars.

Terry

Double Venom · #10 (**permalink**) 05-08-2008, 07:00 AM

Curt,
can you take a picture of the frame?
DV
PS The only chance for a "Demo" car for was use in an add (maybe) or made for their info comnmercials back in the late 80's. Very very few were actually. What you and I would call a "Demo Car" didn't happen.

tcrist · #11 (**permalink**) 05-09-2008, 10:18 PM

DV,
Is there a way to find out more info on my car? It has a CR LTD sticker on the firewall with an ID number on it. The same ID number is stamped on the frame rail above the passenger front tire.

Thanks, Terry

Double Venom · #12 (**permalink**) 05-10-2008, 04:30 AM

Terry,
For what it is worth; When Rutherford went down the tubes I think all the numbers and records were destroyed for more than one reason. Don has a few but I think even those were useless. Definately pre IMAR but other than that I can't really help you. Your DMV should be able to trace it back to all owners if any, or if you have the original MCO it will give the production date.
Not much help fella, but something you probably already knew.
DV