That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build - Page 58

capteddie · #**1141** (**permalink**) 04-04-2010, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Cpt eddie,
Sent you a PM on how to adjust the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge. Forgot about the riser I welded in for the seat! That KIRKEY may fit? ???
DV

Ok DV....

The car is almost empty and the gas gauge reads full. Should I adjust it down to empty and the then fill the tank and then adjust to full?

Double Venom · #**1142** (**permalink**) 04-05-2010, 07:08 AM

Cpt.....

To get it right I think you need to empty the tank as much as possible, adjust the empty mark, then fill to full and again adjust to your mark. Kind of a compromise.
How ever I don't see why filling and adjusting, then driving until it is low and making the final adjustment to the empty mark wouldn't work?

PS...I'm still at my Daughters (Columbus) using the marvelous laptop---Son N Law added a connection to his router.....My gawwsh

this thing is great!!!

capteddie · #**1143** (**permalink**) 04-14-2010, 10:34 AM

DV

How do I get the seats out?

I can't get my hand under the front of the seat and I can't see how to get to the rear bolts.

I think I've figured out how to fix the rear license plate bracket/light.

MaSnaka · #**1144** (**permalink**) 04-14-2010, 12:48 PM

Capteddie,
I had to run a seperate ground wire to the light fixture body for the license plate light. So two wires, one power and one ground.

On my seat the bottom cusion pulls up in the back towards the front, that will expose some nuts. I have not ever removed the seat though. Maybe that will work for you.

John

Double Venom · #**1145** (**permalink**) 04-14-2010, 01:32 PM

Cpt,
The rear bolts go all the way through the 2x2. I think the head of the bolts are welded to the tracks so it should only take one guy to get them out?

License Plate: Did a Nut-Zert pull through that thin area of the trunk? I was going to cut a slot from the bottom of the latch and mould in a steel plate! Ran out of time when we put the bracket on.......... Afraid it was going to be a problem.

Fuel tank- did you solve that one?

John, CPT Eddie doesn't have the stock seats!

capteddie · #**1146** (**permalink**) 04-15-2010, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Cpt,
The rear bolts go all the way through the 2x2. I think the head of the bolts are welded to the tracks so it should only take one guy to get them out?

License Plate: Did a Nut-Zert pull through that thin area of the trunk? I was going to cut a slot from the bottom of the latch and mould in a steel plate! Ran out of time when we put the bracket on.......... Afraid it was going to be a problem.

Fuel tank- did you solve that one?

John, CPT Eddie doesn't have the stock seats!

1) Ok I got under the car and see the 4 bolts holding each seat in. I'm going to see if I can get the Kirkey to fit and get some more leg room.

2) Yes the nut-zert failed. I think I can use longer bolts and go straight into the trunk. Otherwise I'll re-glass it and start over.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49338317@N03/4524164158/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4933831...n/photostream/

Double Venom · #**1147** (**permalink**) 04-15-2010, 04:42 PM

Dam, it looks like the nut-zert pushed right through the glass when you pushed on the light to close the trunk!

capteddie · #**1148** (**permalink**) 04-15-2010, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Dam, it looks like the nut-zert pushed right through the glass when you pushed on the light to close the trunk!

I've never pushed on the light to close the trunk. I always let the trunk get to about 3" of closed and just let it drop. It closes every time like that. No problem. On my list of things to fix....

Double Venom · #**1149** (**permalink**) 04-15-2010, 06:53 PM

Well,
that certainly should be on the list.
DV

Kawika · #**1150** (**permalink**) 04-16-2010, 10:28 AM

Capt eddie I got my kit about the same time you did, and my trunk was so thin that the first time that I closed the trunk with a very light touch, it dented in . how I got around that was I drilled holes on the inside and filled it with a fiberglass layer to thicken it up, then had to build it back up with fiberglass bondo. if your trunk is as thin mine you might need to do this also. once again I would like to thank both you and dv for this thread it really helped me get mine done. Dave

capteddie · #**1151** (**permalink**) 04-23-2010, 07:54 AM

One big problem solved

about a half dozen more to go....

The AOD is now shifting perfectly and no damage was done. The linkage was way out of adjustment. Now the holley is getting put back in place of the edelbrock. The guy that is doing the work races fords semi professionally and is going to tune and jet the holley and then put the car on his chassis dyno to see what she really has at the rear wheels.

After that it's back to getting some more leg room and getting the finish on the body squared away. It's looking like I might actually drive the car this summer.

Double Venom · #**1152** (**permalink**) 04-23-2010, 10:41 AM

Outstanding!
Nice that your guy is going to set that holley up for your motor!
Hang on to that carter! Maybe Wendy will buy it from you if you don't keep it for a spare.

DV
PS. I will make a point of the tranny being way out to Gary! (I thought he really new those inside and out-hmmm?)

capteddie · #**1153** (**permalink**) 04-28-2010, 01:23 PM

Just got off the phone with my performance tuning guy. The holley double pumper is back on and jetted. He told me the air to fuel ratio is dead on. He dynoed the car and we got close to 400 horsepower at the rear wheels. He did uncover another small problem. The electric fuel pump can't keep this baby fed from about 5000 rpm on up. So a new high flow pump is going on tomorrow and he'll put her back on the chassis dyno to see if the improved fuel delivery can give us a few more horses.

After that, the car is off to get the finish work on the paint completed.

DV, I might have a buyer for your kit. Can you get me a list of what you think is missing and would need to be fabricated?

MaSnaka · #**1154** (**permalink**) 04-28-2010, 05:27 PM

Capteddie,
That sounds great. You are so close you must be able to taste it. 400 rwhp is going to be alot of fun. I'm a little jelous.

John

capteddie · #**1155** (**permalink**) 05-16-2010, 07:17 PM

Update....

Car is back in the garage at home. Starting, running and shifting great!

!

Got my new lift installed in the garage at the new house and it is working great! Can get the car high enough to stand up right under it. Will make working on it a lot easier. While I had it lifted up at max height and under the lights. I can really see a lot of spots where the final buffing got missed or spots of orange peel. I'm going to find someone to take care of that, but my question is. Whats the best way to mark those areas? Can I use something like a yellow grease pencil or should I just mast the areas of in blue painters tape?

Thanks! Getting closer to getting it on the road

oh.....

Double Venom · #**1156** (**permalink**) 05-17-2010, 05:07 AM

Ed,
Easiest way is to just put pieces of tape on the spots. If the guy can buff it outside in the daylight that wood be great, unless he has a "Spectrum" corrected paint buffing room? (Not many of those around cost is in the stratosphere area!) Talked to Gary about the tranny adjustments: Said since he couldn't and didn't drive it he set the linkage per TCI at certain RPM. Told him -that didn't work right!

On the thread about my antique GM Muscle motors- 4 409's, one 396/375, multiple 454's a few small blocks, many of them Corvette motors. Anyway, all plus parts are in the shop, hope to have them less than a week before one of the guys coming just buys the whole group. Here's hoping. Georges car (Cobra) is going to the upholster today! Finish his interior and his is ready to go home!

Empty shop!? Well almost. First time since 1971! Well George Smiths Pro-street Willy's, Wendy,'s P/U of course gets done! Going to seem strange..........

Buzz Gehle · #**1157** (**permalink**) 05-26-2010, 10:51 AM

DV,

What can you tell me about the new style CR engine mounts. I have a 98' CR and need additional hood clearance. Do they require welding and where can I get them???

Thank you

Buzz Gehle

Double Venom · #**1158** (**permalink**) 05-26-2010, 09:25 PM

Buzz,
The new motor mounts wont get you any more room.........
You have a choice of building a taller/wider scoop, or change manifolds.
I've got a hood in the shop now that too needed to be made bigger-very common problem.

Wait three weeks and I can sell you just the scoop and you/your bodyman can glass it in.
DV

hamster427 · #**1159** (**permalink**) 05-26-2010, 09:51 PM

Buzz,

If your car has the older 78 mustang 2 mounts, switching to the late model fox body motor mounts will lower the motor about 3/4 of an inch. You will need the newer classic frame mounts to do it though. I have a 99 classic and mine has the mustang 2 type, and the 2006 model I am building now has the new style. I confirmed this by measuring the difference between the two cars. Hope that helps,

Brian

Double Venom · #**1160** (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 03:36 AM

Buzz,
Hamster is right, but I ASSUMED since you say your car is a '98, you already have the"newer mounts? IF not Howell is a short 2.5/3Hr drive to Pentwater, call and bring it up I'll make you new frame mounts.

What motor,Intake, Air Cleaner?

231-869-4608