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  #481 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2008, 04:14 PM
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JOHN,
Very nice. I'd like to see your set up sometime.
DV
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  #482 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 12:31 PM
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Capteddie, and all who are interested, I added another picture to my gallery which may show some closer detail of the hood modification. I bought my car with this already done. I hope it helps you. If you need any more just let me know, I'm happy to help.

John
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  #483 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 02:18 PM
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John,
I'm just curious why your air cleaner is sitting so far forward? Cpt eddies doesn't need cut but with the bottom of the oval showing I just thought it would look a little better if the bottom of the hood was cut to match it. Can't figure out what is making yours as forward as it is?
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  #484 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 02:46 PM
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Hey DV. I have to agree with you. The fact that my cleaner is sitting further back, I think a matching radius cut in the hood will look really good. Go ahead and do it!

Did the House of Kolor stuff show up? Let me know so I can get it tracked if I need to.
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  #485 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 05:37 PM
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showed up today around 5:15!
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  #486 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 06:35 PM
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DV,
Like I said before it came that way. I wish I knew more about it. I think it would have been easier to modify the air cleaner than the hood. Right now my engine is down to the block trying to find why the oil is seeping into my coolant. Nothing is obvious but that doesn't mean I wont figure it out. I actually had to set the intake back on the block to take those photos for you guys. Wish me luck.

John
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  #487 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 08:30 PM
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John, do you have any idea what year your kit is? Do you know when it was first registered. One more nosey question, as long as you don't mind, would you take a couple of measurements for me?
How long is your air cleaner and how far is the back of the head from your firewall? You can probably measure the closet point on the block to the fire wall too as long as I can tell what area you used.

As far as the oil and water seeping together hopefully it is nothing more than a head gasket or even an intake gasket? When you took the heads off did you notice any/much antifreeze in a cylinder? If it aint that easy you may have to reinstall and then pressurize the cooling system. Hope not.
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  #488 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 10:41 PM
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DV,
I have oil getting to the coolant. No coolant getting to oil. No overheating, not even close. I have discussed this at length in the past on another thread. I have some more research to do before I can really comment on the cause. I am thinking it could be the heads themselves I just don't know how to verify that one way or another. There looks to be some deterioration inside the water jackets. We'll see.
I was hoping to find a bad gasket but they look good. Oil is at a higher pressure than coolant. Which might explain the oil migrating and not the coolant.

My kit was registered as a '97. I will get measurments for you. The headers are made by Sanderson. Original to CR's? I don't know, but the collectors do line up nice at the cut outs. I am assuming the engine must be a couple inches forward. Block to firewall...driverside 1 1/2", passengerside 2 1/2". Air cleaner...10" x 21" oval. Remember I have a 390fe BB.

Anything else? Just let me know. I hate to corrupt this thread with things not focused on Capteddie's build.

John
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  #489 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 05:44 AM
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John,
What helps one helps all!
Nitty gritty time, your heqaders and side pipes should match up period. The location point at the end is the critical part. The back of your side pipes should bolt into the frame at a predetermined spot. A nut is welded into the frame at the rear where the sidepipes are bolted into. If this is or has been modified yes your engine is forward.If that OEM welded in nut plate is being used and the rear flange on the sidepipes is not modified again using ther stock mounting nut and the stock exhaust flange without modification then your fine. I do have suspisions of your motor mounts being installed on the wrong sides. The older CR cobras did call for the left engine mount to go on the right and vice versa. Confused a lot of early builders!

Here's the easy way regardless of motor; the back of the header flange, at the left bottom should be about 1-1/4" inch from the foot frame, the right 1-1/2"s away. If not the car is or should be a little nose heavey.

If it is and it doesn't bother you leave it alone, if you auto cross it then a moveing it back may be in order if it is out but, you'll also have to move the tranny mount back and probably cut the driveshaft a little. Nothing major. Maybe it is strictly the nature of the FE.
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  #490 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2008, 07:08 PM
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Cpteddie,
A quiz:
What goes blue when touched?
What goes blue and flashes slow when touched a second time?
What goes blue and flashes fast the third time it's touched?
What hapens when you hit and hold the blue button the 4th. time?
OR, What happens when you throw a main aircraft toggle and just hold the blue button?




















YOUR CAR STARTS
DV
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  #491 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2008, 07:28 PM
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Nice...Nice...Nice!!!!!

So the top secret starter button has been conquered?

Good going, DV!!!!
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Last edited by capteddie; 09-25-2008 at 07:58 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-26-2008, 05:29 AM
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The shifter is also syncronized! All the indicator lights are programmed along with the linkage. all the wiring is just bundeled in the car for now, it's time for the new side vents and get the stripes on! Remind me, you did want the pintstripes too-no?

I will start your 4-point bar today too.
DV

Last edited by Double Venom; 09-26-2008 at 05:33 AM..
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  #493 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2008, 06:33 AM
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Yes Sir!!! I'll take the pin strip!!!

Great job DV!!!!

Let's see some pics of that roll bar when you get it mocked up.
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  #494 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2008, 08:32 AM
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By now, I hope, your back is starting to feel a little better!
DV
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  #495 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2008, 08:36 AM
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Ya. I'm not doing to bad. Still pretty sore and black and blue. Moving around pretty good. Don't think I'm quite up for a road trip to MI yet. Maybe in a couple of weeks.
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:01 PM
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DV... My pain meds are wearing off. Any new updates you can pass along?

How's the roll bar coming along? Did the side louvers fit in OK? How about the fuel spillage well?

Sorry... Getting pretty bored sitting around the house. Maybe in a week or so, I can make a trip over to see everything in person.

Thanks pal!!!!
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Old 09-28-2008, 04:21 AM
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Eddie,
Not much news around here that is exciting anyway. Seems I have a two faced sword of a problem with the bender. I think you saw it. A very heavey piece of equipment which is hardly balanced to stand on it's own. I assumed it would be fine because it is basically pushing against itself when operating. The problem is not being mounted to the floor and when I lay a 12' long 2" pipe on it, it does fall over! Very nasty.
Of course the answer is to bolt it to the floor which brings up problem #2. I can't drill holes in the floor until I find the heat tubes with a pyrometer-the reason I have busting my butt on getting the outdoor furnace hooked up to supply heat to the floor. Then I can take my pyro gun and located the tubes. The furnace has hit a wiring snag and is not able to be turned on yet. We're going to try a new GFI circuit outlet today and see if that isn't the problem. If it is it will be mounted today, if not the electrician is coming tomorrow.

The fuel well is a piece of cake as well as the vents however I have spent every waking moment on the bender. On the other side your interior is going to the upholsterer Friday. The wiring is all 'temporarily hooked up and still needs to be tucked away. This is presenting a small problem because all the key electronics have NOW to be mounted under the dash and not in the trunk. Progress is slow right now, (I thought I would at least have the stripe on). As soon as I get the bender mounted then there is nothing left but full speed ahead once again.Brakes are almost fully bled so now it is time to set the angle of the rear end and get the rear end lined up too.
Take it easy on your back, it will all break loose soon! I'll let you know later today how the wiring on the furnace worked, a little dark right now in the woods to be playing around with 220v's. First light I will be back out there tryiong to lick this simple problem!

MEAN TIME, A LITTLE PATIENCE ON THE CAR and YOUR BACK. Nothing worse for Cobra owner than to ask for patience! We're geting there, just some glitches alnog the way. Stay tuned.
DV
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  #498 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2008, 10:18 AM
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Well I knew when I saw the bender the last time I was at your place. I knew it would have to be bolted down. I almost knocked it over just touching it.

What I didn't know, was that you had radiant heating in the shop floor. Sounds kind of risky drilling holes in the floor. Couldn't you just bolt the bender to something with a bigger base? What about bolting it to that rolling platform that we had the frame on?

Now some car stuff... Why does the electronics need to get mounted behind the dash? I thought we were going to put all that stuff in the trunk. Also, lets keep the interior all black. Your guy can redo the seats in leather, but after mentioning the possible color change to my better half. She said " you should stick with all black. The way you originally described what the car would look like when you told me you wanted to do this"

She is right. My original picture in my mind had the car being kinda dark and sinister. Hardly any chrome. Everything being done in dark or black colors. So.... Lets stick with black leather interior.

Cheers!
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Old 09-28-2008, 08:51 PM
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Cpteddie,
Second time I have answered this today! First time I almost got done and lost power to everything including this post. So, once again;
Black it is. Initials? Color?

Radiant heat is where it's at! And I now have the furnace and 500' of lines completely insulated wrapped and buried in ADS. All buried at least 2' below ground! Yahoo. The furnace is on and kicking butt, the shop is a "cool" 78" and the outside is below 50'. Finding the heating tubes is not a problem. I have a very technical pyro gun which allows me to read every foot of the 2,000' of piping laid in the concrete. I got readings of 68'........then 72' then back to 68' etc. thus giving me the exact location of the tubes I need to avoid!

The bender puts out ten ton of pressure, I expect it will take almost every bit of that to bend this 2" thickwall ODM tubing. As you are well aware of, an old cliché' for every action there is an equal and opposing reaction....The only thing in this shop that may hold up to ten tons of p.s.i. are the steel girders holding the sidewalls and I doubt if they can hold that much! Lagging it is!

The car: We had all the parts to the starter-4 pieces mounted in the trunk and could not get it to work, that's when "FR" told us it all had to be within 3' of you - the driver! So, we moved everything again, mounted it up front and golly-gee it worked. Not to worry, I will hide it as well as possible but plan B could not be helped.

Finally back to work!
DV
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double Venom View Post
We had all the parts to the starter-4 pieces mounted in the trunk and could not get it to work, that's when "FR" told us it all had to be within 3' of you - the driver! So, we moved everything again, mounted it up front and golly-gee it worked. Not to worry, I will hide it as well as possible but plan B could not be helped.
Well that sucks a little. I thought it was going to look really cool with all that stuff mounted in the trunk and not packed up behind the dash. Oh well... crap happens. I'm sure you'll get it tucked up nicely behind the dash.

As for the interior. No lettering. Just all black leather. Seats, door panel with pouches and black carpeting.

Let me know if you need anything!!!
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Last edited by capteddie; 09-29-2008 at 02:29 PM..
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