That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build

[capteddie]

Thanks DV!!!!

Thats awesome work...

Thanks again!!!!

PS> did your super long USB cable show up?

[tcrist]

I guess the reason that I do not understand is if it was off by 26 deg, the motor would look like it was laying on its side.

DV,
How far did you have to move the bracket?

[Double Venom]

Double post.

[Double Venom]

TCRIST,
Without the body being on, no air cleaner it only looked like a small "angle/twist' which you can get if the actual motor mounts aren't sitting in the holes evenly. I simply thought I would have to raise the motor up a little, let the pins settle and we'd be OK....................When it finally came to light I told Ed it was my fault for not catching it immediately. The only defense I had was what I just mentioned, that I had never seen a frame plate welded wrong, (The Jigs don't lie) and my resulting effects from an old stroke- I always list left and thought it looked almost normal!
Actually 26's equated with the aircleaner on to almost a full 1/2" inch! Ooops!.
DV

PS Edward, yes it did thank you. From Florida!? Sure doesn't look like home made or work made! Shame. I owe you another one !

[tcrist]

DV,
Strange, since my stroke I list to my right. I guess if we were walking together somewhere I would need to be on your right or we would bump into each other.

Thanks for the info DV. As always, great build thread. Lot's learned on my end.

Terry

[capteddie]

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Shame. I owe you another one !

I don't think I'll ever be able to truly repay you for what you've done for me.

( its just a cable )

[Double Venom]

Good news!

To some, including cpteddie. If you have an earlier body style with the floor moulded in AND a newer frame with the floor pans welded in instead of the slats, you CAN cut out the entire fiberglass floor! this will give you a full inch on each side at the rockers, and up to two inches to the rear on each side! Just cut out the fiberglass floor pans and leave an inch or two all the way around then you will see just how far you can cut it out. It will also allow you to tilt the seat back a full 2"s!

About time for some good news for a change hey Eddie? This is especially good and neat for bigger guys instead of us wimps!

DV

[capteddie]

Good news DV!!!! I like good news.

As you know. I'm about as round as I am tall So all the extra room wouldn't go to waste. Plus I think it will give more adjustability to get that perfect driver position.

So.... How's everything else going? Are we getting close to paint time?

Thanks again for some good news!!!

[Kawika]

I was wondering about that,it seem that i would want the seats attached to the metal floor pan,instead of the fiberglass. thanks again Ed

[Double Venom]

Kawika,
Now thats only with the newer frame with full metal floor and not slats. Once you start to cut you will be amazed at how much room will show up!

Cpteddie, paint unfortunately is a long way off........Not knocking the old body shop, lets just ay the front fenders behind the headlights could be a little more rounder- both sides have flat spots in them-very easy to do on these curves but when painted it will look as flat as a sidewalk. Second thing I still have not got all the steel in for the 4-point! They just can't seem to tell me when DOM 2"x1/4 wall seamless is finally going to open up! Right now it's a big two-point No sweat lot of work left- Making that motor mount and re-doing the hood really threw me for a loop!
DV

[capteddie]

Good afternoon DV!!!

Do you want me to try and source some DOM 2"x1/4 wall seamless over on this side of the lake? If I find some, I could bring it over on the 28th.

Let me know and I'll see what I can find.

Glad I payed my body shop guy over here those big $$$ to prep the body for paint

Cheers!

[Double Venom]

"the other ed"
All minor but this IS a Cobra! I got in contact with John, the electrical all around guy this morning, he has finally sourced some, but it may be a week?? Lots to do but I would like to get this roll bar in so I can finish the body and at least get the stripe on it! The other hold up is the body is still on and I can't finish the rough wiring until I get the body back off! Hey, it's all good but it could have been better! No sweat. You might want to start pricing out some snow tires though.
DV

[capteddie]

Originally Posted by Double Venom

You might want to start pricing out some snow tires though.

Ouch! That hurt a little

I'll see you on the 28th.....

[Jerry Clayton]

Isn't 2 x 1/4 wall a little heavy for a roll bar????? I could see maybe .125, and would use 1 5/8 x .083 4130n for my stuff

[Double Venom]

Jerry,
Speaking to a pro why does it not surprise me that you would question the size?
The whole bar is 2" OD interior. the 1/4" is some thing new. I'm putting it in a lathe cutting 4"s of to fit inside the normal 2" OD tube. The large end will be welded to the main bar for a connection to the down bars. The other end will be cut down on the lathe to fit tightly into the down bar. This keeps us from having to weld a smaller tube into the bigger one for a connection. I.E., no place for rust to start in a non existant seam, no chance at an internal weld breaking, God forbid it is evere used and stronger to boot.

Make sense?
DV

[Jerry Clayton]

I can accept your line of thinking for the construction method----however, being an racer and pilot, I like to leave excess weight behind.
A smaller tube ( like 1 3/4 ) inside some .125 wall 2 od tube would be no more likely to rust than the turned down 1/4 wall stuff. Why would it leak???? And also stress break at machined corner would be highly likely
This is a high performanc application and weight is weight----acceration and braking

But, I do admire the fact that you guys have made this thread and enjoy reading it--

If you do want 1 5/8 .083 I have quite a bit of it in stock


Jerry

[capteddie]

Jerry,

Thanks for chiming in on the our build thread. At times its been a great source of debate and learning. I'm going to stay away from the tubing size issues. DV pretty much has a form of artistic freedom to do what he thinks is best with the car build. Plus I'm not overly concerned with weight, but if I was. I could always lose 20 or 30 pounds to make up the difference in tubing weight and probably would be good for my health

I probably will need to talk to you after the car comes home to see about switching out the gearing in the rear end. Currently its running 3.73 and DV thinks with the automatic trans, I should drop down to around 3.10.

Thanks again!

[Double Venom]

Jerry,
The original down tube connection by CR's allowed two places for water to hold and built up rust. since most bars were chromed or powder coated the eventual rust build up was pretty easy to remove-until age set in, then trying to remove the roll bar for any reason is almost impossible. The proposed bar will have no spots to hold water thus ending the rust question for good.

Fatigue and a "lathed" joint is a question but this is an absolute non moving part, (excluding vibration) which I assume "fatigue" on such a part should not come into question,anymore so as the original CR junction.

Weight: the 1/4" wall will only be aproximately 2"s long adding minimal weight and with this being a streetcar we're talking less than a +/- lb., and with Ed's Torque rating and HP I don't think he would notice. (Ed loose the weight if you want but I don't think it would be necessary for this piece.)

I think (?) doing it this way would be stronger than a partial inner weld and a single 1/4 x 20 bolt. If the roll bar was ever put to use the force is normally back with a downward motion just eliminating any chance of breakage or failure, especially with the down leg attached to the frame itself in front of the rear wheels. In the extreme chance it would roll and spin, putting the car in a backward motion, but still moviong forward AND if the bar should hook on a Curb (?) again the mount at the bottom of the main frame rails will keep the bar from going toward the driver. The main cross over bar is bolted into the 4x4crossover beam of the frame it would be almost impossible to pulling apart.

Weight #2, I totally understand weight, we took every thing we could take-off-, cut out, modified for DVII except drilling the frame like swiss cheese. I just didn't have the know-how to do that properly, but we did think about it! In fact when we got done with it, (remember it was full Viper powered and driven with the V-10 -T-56 with a huge quick change rear end. Per SCCA we had to ADD 700 lbs to make it class legal! Talk about a kick in the arse! Try finding ways to add 700 lbs. to a car you spent a year shaving weight from! (When we were done, the driver in full race uniform with helmet we made it by 3 lbs!)

I do have a pretty good grasp on weight, vs stop/go.
Jerry anytime you have questions,suggestions, your expertise is more than welcome here!I thank you for the offer of the steel too!
DV

[Jerry Clayton]

Partial weld?????
1/4 - 20????

Surely you jest------

[Double Venom]

Absolutely not Sir; 1x1/2 OD tube (short maybe 2"s) welded in two or three places inside a 1-3/4 OD tube about 4"s long, then the down tube is slid over the smaller tube and held in place by a 1/4x20 button head bolt.............No kidding! In the truth to the matter the short tube is then fully welded to the normal hoop also 1 3/4.

That's why I have gone to 2" OD (thin wall if you will-.120(?)) with the modified 2" x 1/4" and turning it down just so it fits tight into the 2"OD tube and it will be welded 360's.
DV