That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build - Page 43

Double Venom · #**841** (**permalink**) 05-06-2009, 04:41 AM

Steve,
It's taped to the top-left of the door on the first picture....center of the second. It looks almost like a reflection from the sun....a 'single' edged razor blade.
DV

Double Venom · #**842** (**permalink**) 05-06-2009, 03:33 PM

Cpt... Since most guys don't want or need to know how to mount a Lucas license plate holder, thought I would just put up a picture for you.

DV

capteddie · #**843** (**permalink**) 05-06-2009, 03:54 PM

lights!!! we have lights on also!!!

Double Venom · #**844** (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom

Cpt... Since most guys don't want or need to know how to mount a Lucas license plate holder, thought I would just put up a picture for you.

DV

PS..The flat or dull spots showing up are places that have been scraped prior to wet sanding the entire body and buffing.

capteddie · #**845** (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 05:59 AM

Sweet!! Have any pictures of the front, with the hood on?

Double Venom · #**846** (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 09:36 AM

NOPE- not yet

Yes, (My first) the adjustable hood/trunk lift will work on a CR- with a custom made bracket.

A little tease.... See the purple haze on the top of the fenders? That's the reflection from a roll of blue masking paper hanging over the car

Still needs to be sanded and buffed.

DV

jimhurtt · #**847** (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 06:58 PM

Need to ask about the trunk support rod. Is that the Napa Part? Where could one find the custom bracket used? What kind of bolts/screws were used to fasten it to the trunk lid? Also I never got a confirmation from another thread as to whether ATF was recommended for the T-5 Manual transmission, and if so, what kind and synthetic or regular?

Thanks

Jim Hurtt

capteddie · #**848** (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 07:51 PM

Jim,

The trunk and hood rods DV is using are from here....

http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...f7e638c7ed7145

As for the custom bracket and other mounting hardware. You'll have to wait for DV to chime in and give out those details.

Double Venom · #**849** (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 08:49 PM

Jim,
What ever you do-do NOT use synthetic in ANY T-5! The synthetic eats the syncronizer (plastic) linings! Turn a $1,500 tranny into junk real quick! Use the GM tranny fluid. I'll post full info tommorrow on how I attached the sliding lift.
DV
PS it is the same lift as NAPA sells.

capteddie · #**850** (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 11:57 AM

DV

The trailer for our little baby is done!!! A new all aluminum Serpent Express (SE-63). I'm planning on picking it up in Three Rivers MI on the 16th and bring it to your place. Does that work for you? You can then use it to get the car to the upholstery guy.

Double Venom · #**851** (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 12:39 PM

The boss is gone right now but I think it sounds good. I'll let you know!
DV

Double Venom · #**852** (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 12:41 PM

Cpteddies trunk slide mounting with 'nutserts' for the top part of the hinge. These are 1/4x20 nutserts and take a special tool to install. I use then all over the Cobras.

This is the tool and a unused 'nutsert'. Screw it on the end, insert it into an appropriate drilled hole and squeeze-just like a rivet gun.

MotorcityCobra · #**853** (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 05:37 PM

DV,

What brand of rivnuts are these? Looks like they might be better for fibreglass than the more solid tube ones.

When I think about it, why didn't you use these for the inside mirror? Cosmetics?

Thanks, as always.

MC

Double Venom · #**854** (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 07:00 PM

MC,
Nice to see some one is thinking about 'stuff'. The solid barrels are not very friendly to fiberglass unless they are small like 10-32's or less, where as the bigger ones like I have shown will split out into four corners and grab the 'glass on all four corners. This makes the bigger ones much more capable of handeling things like hood rods, electronics, etc., especially anything you might want to take on and off later without having to use double nuts, i.e. solenoids, hood boxes, etc.

Kimball-Midwest is my main supplier for all my hardware. They are out of Columbus, ship anywhere and no minimums. You would have to check their website for everything they handle, wiring, hardware, connectors, glues, paints and on and on. Their four or five catalogs pratically make up a Library in itself!

If you want to order anything call Mike @ 1800-214-9440 - before 4PM and the parts are shipped the same day! They carry all my special flange nuts and bolts, conectors etc., etc. Tell Mike I had you call, I just ordered 'stuff' yesterday.

DV

Double Venom · #**855** (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 10:24 AM

Cpteddie,
I know most guys must be getting tired of seeing these pictures, (I know they look a lot like the previous ones.) So these are for your benefit mostly so that you can see and later explain "how" and have proof.

After the original 'planing' and sanding and then reclearing 90% of the car it looked great, the other 10% again lightly planed sanded and buffed. Darn if the second planing etc. turned out, in my humble opinion, tremendously improved the looks. SO.....I have decided to plane the entire car again.This picture is the start of the final process..... All the coumpounds ' and my razor blade' are shown. The black Presta coumpound is a very aggressive compound used for gel coats on fiberglass. The first buffing pad is an aggresive wool pad.

The next buffing is done with "Wizards -Turbo cut" compound using the same pad as above.

The next cut or buffing is again "Wizards" but it is their 'Finish Cut'. On this latest compound I switch to a less aggesive lambs wool pad.

It is here that any flaws in the gloss, i.e.; lint, sand scratches, planing marks etc. will show up if you have missed any, AND you will have! I will then block once again with 800 wet-kind of lightly.

Now it's time for "Wizards Final Cut" compound. I change the pad once again, this time using a fine 'yellow' lambs wool. When I am satisfied with the area I will then move to another section of the car.

When I have done the entire car, I THEN wash it and put a final buff and glaze on it. NO WAX OR Polish!

As I go along I will post progressive photo's until it is time to mount body to frame. (All final buffing and glazing is done when the body is on the frame.)

DV

PS Cpt.... the 16th is great! Bringing company?

Don · #**856** (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 10:58 AM

DV:

Might have already been mentioned in the Thread, but what do you use/recommend for tires, street use only: Make, Model, Size, Width etc., etc., front and rear ?

Anything special in the F & R suspension, wheel backspace, etc for capteddie's CR that would preclude using the suggested tires on other CRs ?

.............thanks

Don

capteddie · #**857** (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom

PS Cpt.... the 16th is great! Bringing company?

DV! The finish is looking unbelievable!

! Can't wait to see it up close and in person!

I'll be at your place on the 16th with the new trailer for our baby. Right now its looking like it will just be me. Everyone else has prior commitments.

Keep the pictures coming

Double Venom · #**858** (**permalink**) 05-13-2009, 08:08 AM

Thought you might like to see the first out side shots........

What's a little rubbing compund thrown everywhere!?

DV

capteddie · #**859** (**permalink**) 05-13-2009, 09:42 AM

Sweet DV !!!!

I'm back out in NJ till Friday morning and just checked the web site. It really made my day.... Keep'em coming

See you Saturday with the trailer

MaSnaka · #**860** (**permalink**) 05-13-2009, 02:38 PM

Uhhhhh, looks like all the snow jumped on your car. You really should wash that thing once in awhile. All kidding aside, things are looking good.

John