Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
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Hmmm,
I can do that! (Next winter? )
John, very, very impressive! I didn't see your second run, but WE SURE AS HECK HEARD IT! I thought for sure you hit the 600 mark or came very close to it! Pack another 1,000 lbs in that 1/4 tone P/U and we'll puts Ed's up to the task!
DV
O.F.M., no pictures yet, taking the entire assembly and will post them at one time---stay cool
PS.... put a level on that blower! Looks like he is using Don's motor mounts! OR, is it just me being jealous?
Last edited by Double Venom; 07-26-2009 at 10:22 AM..
Cap Teddie or DV. Can I ask a quick question? I am installing the NAPA prop rod for my trunk like yours. I downloaded the pics you showed. Can you tell me how many inches from the top of the trunk lid you installed it and how many inches from the trunk opening lip you installed the bracked for the bottom? That would be a tremendous help to me. Thanks
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
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Jim,
From the bottom of the trunk lid, the plate for the latch is 14 1/2"s (O.C.).
The bottom plate sits on a "stand-out' bracket I fabricated and mounted with 10x24x 1/2' machine screws. Kind of like a staight legged "Z", where the top and bottom of the "Z" are 5/8's inches and the stright down leg is 2-1/4 inches. It is placed 3 &1/2" inches back from the front edge of the trunk opening.
The top of the "Z" is screwed down with the top of the "Z" UNDER the edge of the trunk opening.
With the pictures you have I hope this is a little/lot clearer than mud!
The top of the rod is mounted using "nut-zerts" and of course is mounted into the inside ridge of the trunk.
Need more? This is what this 67 page forum is all about!
NUTZERT install:
This is a poor shot of the lower bracket, but.... the top of the 'Z' lower bracket is 1/2" x 3"s.
I made it this long to put less load on the trunk flange in a small area. (I pulled back the trunk seal so it could be seen a little better.)
One more thing; If you notice, I reversed the lower mounting bracket from the way it came so the bottom of the bracket didn't stick out too far into the trunk area.
DV
Last edited by Double Venom; 07-27-2009 at 07:47 AM..
Thanks DV for taking the time out to detail the trunk rod mounting. It will enable me to mount it with less guess work. One other question that may seem a bit lame but where does the sending unit for the engine temperature gauge go? Before or after the thermostat? Mine is mounted in the water neck between the thermostat and the radiator so it is measuring the water temperature through the top radiator hose after the thermostat has opened. Is that right?
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
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Jim,
Posted this hours ago but at the same time CC crashed... Water from the engine (heads) goes to the thermostat and back to the radiator. (IF thermostat is open.).
Basically you can place it in the most convienant spot-as long as you know- what side of the thernmostat it is reading.
People, buddy, friend, mechanic, etc., etc..., there are no lame questions here. I, personally have not answered one question that I hadn't asked at one time or the other!
Jim, my sender is in the top of the intake manifild just behind the thermostat. It reads the water temp in the engine and when the thermostat opens you can see the temp drop. Then the temp will slowly rise to the normal operating temp as I continue driving.
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
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Jim,
I think this is somewhat the location MASNAKA is referring to. It reads the ENGINE water temp. Many cars will use the Ford thermostat housing with a threaded insert in it. This too with sending unit mounted in place will read the engine temp. Many, including all of mine have two temp. units in place with the second one, actually a set temperature setting after the thermorstat, (usually on the side of the radiator) which I hook up to the fan, will turn the fan on automatically.
DV
PS, sorry it's a little fuzzy, too dammm early to set up the tripod!
Last edited by Double Venom; 07-30-2009 at 03:31 AM..
Thanks for the info and comparisons on the location of the sending unit for the coolant temperature gauge. It is interesting the different replies and other answers I have gotten to this question. I guess there would be no difference if your sending unit reads the coolant after the thermostat or before, unless your thermostat stuck in the closed position. I installed a new thermostat, that if it sticks, is supposed to stick in the open position as my sending unit is after the thermostat. I have looked for a chrome water neck for my 302 (where the top radiator hose and thermostat come out of the intake manifold) but none are threaded for the sending unit on top like mine. So I don't know where my water neck came from. Good idea on controlling your fans DV. Mine come on and stay on with the ignition switch.
Well... Made it back from DVs last night. Really wish I could post that the car is done and it came back with me on the trailer. But we've been getting bit in the A$$ by gremlins for the last month or so. First it was an electrical issue that was blowing the main fuse. Well we think that problem/gremlin has been put out of its misery. Now we have a problem were the engine won't fire. Yesterday DV and I came to the conclusion that it must be a fuel delivery issue. We have spark and we have air. What we don't have is fuel If you pump the carb. One jet squirts a mixture of air and fuel, pretty much just spitting the other jet barely drips If we pour some fuel down the throat she fires right up, but then dies for lack of gas
So... We think the fuel pump has failed. Its mechanical, so more than likely a cracked diaphragm or some other failure. DV and I went and picked up an electrical pump yesterday (might as well take the opportunity to make the switch from mechanical to electric at this point) and he's hopefully swapping it out today.
After all that. One nice piece of custom DV work did get finished and thats the radiator/nose shroud. Here's a pic of the nose unfinished ( wish I had a better one, but its to late now ) and one finished. It really sets the front nose off nicely
__________________
"the other ed"
Last edited by capteddie; 08-02-2009 at 07:56 AM..
Reason: spelling
DV: Question. You said the top of the trunk latch was mounted 14 1/2"" OC from the botton lip of the trunk lid. Did you measure it following the curve of the lid or is it diagonally straight accross?
Also wondering why CapTeddie's oil coller was not mounted in the bottom air scoop. Is that not what that lower scoop was designed for? Is there a problem if you mount it there?
DV: Question. You said the top of the trunk latch was mounted 14 1/2"" OC from the botton lip of the trunk lid. Did you measure it following the curve of the lid or is it diagonally straight accross?
Also wondering why CapTeddie's oil coller was not mounted in the bottom air scoop. Is that not what that lower scoop was designed for? Is there a problem if you mount it there?
Jim
Hey Jim!
First off... This goes out to everybody following DV on this thread and/or the CRII forum. His internet access is hosed. I'll get him back online this Saturday when I get to the shop. Standby and be patient...
Jim... I'm not sure I have the answer to the ??? about the cooler being mounted where it is, but here's my VERY uneducated guess.
1st. the cooler you see on my car is for the automatic C6 I'm running in the car and not an engine oil cooler. 2nd. My thought was that after the lower fiberglass air shoot was glassed in, it channels air right to the oil pan.
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Now that I have a new tech "hi-speed' toy, lets get it on while a take a short break.
Jim- Absolutely sorry to take so long.....13 1/4"s on the diagonal!
TEST:
Lets find out good you are?
I in all candor place myself in a three & 1/2 stars out of four building cobras and street rods but this particular gremlin took me down more than a couple of steps!
Problem: All wiring was tested being built and came out OK!
However after total assembly if you turned the headlights on you got low beams OK, BUT the minute you switched to hi-beams the breaker would pop!
What I did-over three long days!
Tracked and traced every wire in the headlight circuit
Then tracked and traced all the lights-even the parking lights
Replaced the headlight switch
replaced the foot operated hi-low switch
Replaced the steering column connector
Checked every ground and every wire to see if it was grounded........
Checked all of Flaming Rivers column wiring.
NONE of this brought me any closer to an answer! cpteddie understandably was a nervous wreck!
OK, you know what I did without finding the answer-what did I miss-what was the answer-it was soooo obvious-when I did find it.
If you get it first time Four starts to you
1 to 2 thoughts Thee stars
3 to five guess's two stars
More than 5 guesses you get to work for me!
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Good guess Terry but, the system is on a 30 amp resettable breaker. Nothing to do with the size of the wire, (Hiway 15 harness) or the fuses!
DV
PS. THE 30 AMP BREAKER HAS BEEN CHANGED TO A 25 THOUGH.
1Likes
(Next winter? 
)
by gremlins for the last month or so. First it was an electrical issue that was blowing the main fuse. Well we think that problem/gremlin has been put out of its misery. Now we have a problem were the engine won't fire. Yesterday DV and I came to the conclusion that it must be a fuel delivery issue. We have spark and we have air. What we don't have is fuel 
If you pump the carb. One jet squirts a mixture of air and fuel, pretty much just spitting 
the other jet barely drips 
If we pour some fuel down the throat she fires right up, but then dies for lack of gas 
forum. His internet access is hosed. I'll get him back online this Saturday when I get to the shop. Standby and be patient... 
Linear Mode
