MASNAKA 7 HUCKELBERRY 5-REMOTE location & seat belt holes

Double Venom · #1 (**permalink**) 06-02-2008, 08:12 AM

Masnaka this is what I use behind the radiator-infront of the engine. Allows you to place EFI fuel presure regulator, remote oile filter, remote hook ups- etc. easy to get to without geting under the car and is relly impressive when everything is hooked up.

Huckelberry5 this is a picture of the new CRII mounting holes for the seat belts-two on each side of the car for the lap belts. In your case you will simiply drill a 1/2" hole all the way through the frame, then using an appropriate lenght bolt (very critical- they can't be too long, mount the seat belts after the body is on and make sure by using washers or spacers there is no gaps between the frame and the fiberglass.

DV

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 06-02-2008, 08:43 AM

Double post and can't find the "delete" button. Found the "edit/delete. but can't find the delete!

wetdog · #3 (**permalink**) 06-02-2008, 07:10 PM

Tricky devil!, Ed do you silicone that gap all around the pan ? I noticed its tacked and if you shine a light behind there is a gap that h2o might enter. WD

Double Venom · #4 (**permalink**) 06-02-2008, 09:08 PM

WD,
You've lost me?? Gap? Referring to the floor pan? If that is the case, the floor pan is not welded all the way around. I just assumed CRII did that for drainage. Lets face it when a Cobra is washed it definatloey gets wet inside, especially the jute padding. Water needs some place to go. More likely to get wet from the top and drain out, vs. driving in the rain and picking up road water-even so it has to then go somewhere.

Totally sealed floor pans, whether fiberglass or steel have a tendancy to mold or even rot without some type of drainage.

Maybe I am totally off your comment--if so sorry!
DV

wetdog · #5 (**permalink**) 06-03-2008, 12:06 AM

Yep, take a lookey at that seam about even with the upper piece of tape in your pic...if you shine a light behind you will notice a small gap that could let water in ..(i put rubber plugged drain holes in mine ) hardware store about a buck a piece. I know sometime somewhere I will get caught in the rain . WD

Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 06-03-2008, 03:38 AM

Wetdog,
Look all the way around your floor pan, even the very front where the foot well drops down. I am assuming (shame on me) that you have a newer dropped floor pan model with toally steel pans. It is not welded solid all the way around at any section other than the very rear (higher up) and where it has been bent by a press. There IS a manufactured gap on both left and right floor pans. I guess I just didn't get your "TRICKY DEVIL" comment, I just build them, I don't design them.

Sure a guy can caulk or plug them if he so desires, but after cutting out rusted and rotted floor pans for years on factory cars, (i.e.; early 70 Corvettes for a very simple example of hundreds of cars with steel D.O.T .floor pans with plugs that rot out after 5 years or less.) I simply believed that this was one way that CR's got around the rusting-rotting problrem. I have yet to see A CR Cobra that was left open rusted or rotted yet.

Oh well, think I'll take another Clonopin.
DV

Curt C. · #7 (**permalink**) 06-05-2008, 05:31 PM

DV, do you have those brackets for sale? That is a nice piece. Nicer than my jack rigged aluminum panhard rod bar that I used.

Double Venom · #8 (**permalink**) 06-05-2008, 05:53 PM

Curt, are you talking about the bracket I built to mount in front of the engine to hold all the remote units?

I can build you one, just thinweall square tubinf, each end has a welded flat plate with two 5/16's holds drilled in it for mounting.
DV

Curt C. · #9 (**permalink**) 06-09-2008, 05:51 PM

Hi DV, yes I am very interested. PM me with your price and where to send the money.