Mounting rear QA-1 and PROS shocks to CR frame & axle

[Double Venom]

This eliminates all extra bracing etc. Simple bolt in procedure with the proper parts;

1) Four shock mounts needed. Any auto parts store carry's them; NAPA,CAR QUEST, AUTOZONE etc.,


Sorry for being so fuzzy-can't find my tripod!

Then knock out all OEM factory bushings. (I use a socket and a big hammer!)





Mount one shock adapter in the designated loation on the frame itself:



Install one shock mount in the OEM hole on the axle bracket


I then apply "Anti-seize" to upper and lower washer and about half way up the threads of the shock;



Mount the shocks!-Perfect fit- extremely strong and no clearance problems!!



Just to eliminate any confusion, take the bushings that come with the shock mount kits and throw them in a drawer someplace-not needed-not used!

Any questions?

DV

[Kawika]

that look easy enough , what brand do you like better on a crII QA-1 or pro, where is the best place to purchase them. as for the front end ,Capteddy do you want to sell me yours that you got from Don? Dave

[Double Venom]

Kawika, etc. if your NOT going to race SERIOUS and if you really do not know how to set up a suspension the PROS" work more than fine. Used them on all my DV's including the DVII's- QA-1' are super shocks but you really need to know what you're doing with them. Basic dragracing,SCCA courses, and autopcross the PRO's are just fine. You can get either one though just by going to their individual websites. I even Think Jegs and Summitt carry them. (Note: One picture shows the "hat off the shock to remove the original bushing but that is NOT necessary to do, Just be carefull you don't breakl either ear that holds the original bushing.

Extra support, larger bolts, reinforcing whether the frame or the axle bracket is really redundant. Per someone (I forgot who-sorry) IF something is bending, the bottom line is, something is wrong! Wrong shocks or they are not mounted right!

DV

[tcrist]

DV,
That looks great but that would not work on the Pro-Shocks that I received from CRII. My Pro-Shocks came with a thick tapered aluminum spacer that I had to use or the shock would hit the brackets on the frame and on the rearend. Even with the taper on the spacer I still had to put an 1/8" washer between the spacer and the shock to clear the spacer. Now that is probably because CRII send me shocks that had spherical bearings instead of rubber bushings but I would have still needed the tappered spacers anyway (I think). I'll see if I have any pictures and post them of the shock mounting.



I know, It's dirty

Terry

[Double Venom]

Terry,
What you are looking at ARE pro shocks- without the spaces that came from Don!
The shock mounting kits make up for them!
Ahh, I just noticed your PRS had the sperical bearings I think in that case you will use the bushings that some with the shock mounting kits. Not real sure on that one but they should work this way. Maybe....a small washer on the front side of the bushing then the shock and if needed another bushing, small washer and bolt up.

DV

[tcrist]

DV,
Ok, But the shock mount kit that you have bolted onto the bracket looks like it spaces the shock out maybe 1/2" - 3/4". I needed the spacer which is approx. 2" thick to move the shock out far enough for the spring and the adjuster to clear the bracket on the rearend and the upper frame bracket. I did buy the shock bolt kit that Don said to buy but it would not space the shocks out far enough. Could this be because the shocks that he send me has the spherical bearings on the ends instead of the rubber bushings? I like the way that yours sets better because it moves the shock closer to the brackets instead of out over 2". Better for the load that way.

In the one picture with the tape and the 11/16 and 1" dimensions written on them. Did you drill a new hole for the shock bolt?

Terry

[Double Venom]

Hmmm,Terry I understand, but it has been so long since I have mounted Don's shocks I simply can't remember them for tolerance purposes....Dammmmmm
Yes the measurement in the first picture IS the location for the new style shocks (Coilovers). Dead center of the original hole, 1" up from the bottomn edge of the frame.
DV

Maybe I should have an in house school! We could all learn from each other!

[tcrist]

DV,

So for the top of the shock then I could drill a new hole and that would lower the top of the shock enough so that I would probably not need the spacer to clear the bracket if I went to the rubber bushings instead of the spherical bearing. Then I guess if I went to the rubber bushings on the bottom that would then put my shocks closer to the brackets which would then give me better support. That would then give me a chance to put the anti-seize on the threads of the shocks (shame on me for not doing that already).
Where can I get the rubber bushings for the shocks. Can I just use the ones from the shock mount kit?

An in house school? Name the date and I'll scedual my vacation.

Thanks DV.

Terry

[Kawika]

DV I am in school ,"the collage of hard knocks " is there a different shock for the front and rear? and is there a standard size for crII? also what is the best prop valve ,and what can I get for a fuel sending unit. with all that I will ready to install the body,(with you helping on line) how much prep work do you do on the body before installing? and how good are the cut out lines on Don's car's, I did get my headers and side pipes for Don, so can I trust the cut outs ? thank so much Dave

[Double Venom]

Terry,
The bushings that come with the kits are perfect for what you are talking about.

Dave the ONLY cut out markings you can trust are for the, VENTS, headlights, doors, nose and lower nose vent BUT always leave yourself about a 1/4" or a little less.

DO NOT TRUST THE CUT OUT FOR THE WINDOW FRAMES! cut these out totally - well inside the lines then match up the window posts, one at a time, to fit to the frame. Remember the windshield frames DO NOT TOUCH THE BOTTOM OF THE COWL BAR BRACE. They will/should come within 3/32's though, but not touching. They SHOULD fit tight against the angeled 1/4x1/4 steel welded at an angle on the cowl bar though.

As far as the cut outs are concerned for the side pipes, I put the body on as far as I can get it withou stressing it, then cut out for the pipes leaving roughly a full 1/4" all the way around.

<More a little later. I've got to contact my litle birdie!