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CC Advertisers
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12-23-2008, 10:34 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Roll BARS-3 or 4 points now available!
OK, its been almost forever but with Cpteddies help I now have the equipment and ya practice, (long time since I made the bars.) to make any of the roll bars needed for the CR's cars.
Most of us know the price of steel has almost quadrupeled in the last few years so I am going to hold to Don's old price list as long as possible.
All bars are NHRA,SCCA, IHRA for 11.00 second 1/4 mile's or can be adopted if you are one of the lucky few that hits better than a 10.99. (Now that gets a little scarey in a Cobra! )
For those that need to know or need to tell an official without the test the bars are all DOM - seamless .120 wall steel tubing. (They may/may not reserve the right to test the bar and make sure you aren't fibbing!)
I can have them powder coated in almost any color including the Candy Apples. Even with a clear coat if you want. Chroming: I will send you the raw bar ready for prepping and let your chromer do the rest. I can also paint the roll bars any color including base coat/clear coats.
Sooner or later "WE" are going to fix our problems!
Click on this link to see cpteddies unfinished 4-point bar:
That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build
Just let me know.... 2 to 4 weeks for delivery at this point!
Merry HO-H0 everyone
DV
Last edited by Double Venom; 12-23-2008 at 10:36 AM..
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12-23-2008, 02:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bryan,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: SOLD Excalibur, '94-'95 5.0 EFI, Edelbrock heads, E303 cam, 1.7RR, Cobra intake, 24lb injectors, 93 cobra ECU, 65mm TB, hi flow cats.
Posts: 274
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Not Ranked
Bar Prices
For those of us who don't know Don's prices, can you post the prices for all the options? Also, suppose you have no bar on a completed car, what is involved in the install?
Merry Christmas,
Mike
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12-24-2008, 11:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Mike, et.al.,
A four point as shown for cpt eddies is $600.00 unfinished plus shipping. I found Dons price on this one & it was over $1,200.00!
A three point unfinished left or right is $325.00.
Cost of powder coating will vary on color and if a clear coat is wanted. I will get you an exact price before anything is done.
Installed on a finished/painted body is absolutely do-able. Measureing is more than critical though. I have done it-a lot- and I still don't like if but it is totally doable! Cripe when I came up with the 4-point idea and wanted to put it on the $10,000.00 paint job on my DV I was scared $hitless! In fact I had one of my guys do it that wasn't bothered in the least by cutting new holes in that paint job. I must admit good old Walter did a fine job too!
If you want me to paint it for you, then the cost of the paint, clear coat, primer/primer sealer and labor will run give or take $200.00 more.
DV
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12-25-2008, 07:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bryan,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: SOLD Excalibur, '94-'95 5.0 EFI, Edelbrock heads, E303 cam, 1.7RR, Cobra intake, 24lb injectors, 93 cobra ECU, 65mm TB, hi flow cats.
Posts: 274
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Not Ranked
Frame Attachment
Thanks, DV.
Besides cutting the holes in the body, what is involved in securing it to the frame? Is welding on the frame required? IWhat is needed for adaquate access for securing it to the frame? Are holes also required in the trunk and package shelf area (behind the seats)? I'm trying to envision the set up, the scope of the project and skills involved.
Thanks again,
Mike
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12-25-2008, 09:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Mike,
It is designed and built for no more welding. Of course you can weld the lower caps in place but bolting works fine.
Right behind what I call the rear shelf of the "body" about 1-1/2's just inside the outside edge of where the seat goes you will need to cut two holes with a hole saw. One on each side of the car for a 4-point, or about 18"s apart for the three points. The main hoop will go in and drop down to the rear frame crossmember. (Right bhind your seats.) the trick is to measure the exact center point of the nut that is welded in to the bottom of the bar, and then transfer it to where the hole for the nut sits on the fiberglass pan sitting on the frame.
"The Trick": There is always a trick for everything, make a small pancake out of clay, play-do, what ever and sit it on the fiberglass before dopiing the bar in place. Then placing the bar where it will fit right (obvious) push the bar down tightly, remove the bar and you will have a perfect indentation where the center of the hidden nut is. Drill right through the center of your mark "STRAIGHT DOWN" through the 4" crossmember. You then bolt up through the crossmember into the hidden nut inside the down tubes. Easier and quicker to do than write about it. The down back tube(s) are then installed on the stubs from the top bar through the back of the body-NOT touching the trunk in anyway.
These tube(s) are then drilled and tapped for a 1/4x20 bolt to hold them together. At the very bottom a cup with a flange on it is then placed over the rear down tube, the cup is drilled through the cup and the roll bar and bolted together. The flange coming off the cup (already welded) is then aligned next to the frame, Then the flange is drilled going through the frame in two places and bolted together.
One roll bar! AND like most directions read the entire thing before proceeding! I assume you will want the really neat bezels on the bar at the body. Put the Bezels/chrome rings and grommets on "before" bolting the roll bar in! Just leave the bezels and grommets loose until everything is bolted in, then put the screws in the bezels.
On a 4-point it should take less than an hour from start to finish, but we all know how that goes!
When I mount cpteddies, I'll photograph that too!
A very Merry HO-HO to everyone!
DV
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12-26-2008, 11:50 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bryan,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: SOLD Excalibur, '94-'95 5.0 EFI, Edelbrock heads, E303 cam, 1.7RR, Cobra intake, 24lb injectors, 93 cobra ECU, 65mm TB, hi flow cats.
Posts: 274
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Not Ranked
DV,
Thanks, very clear description.
Mike
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01-09-2009, 12:47 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fort Worth,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, 351W
Posts: 20
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Not Ranked
I Need a Rollbar
My CR has sit for a couple years and I am going to have it finished. I would like to purchase a driver's side rollbar. I would like one ready for chroming.
Can you post it on E-Bay for the sale?
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01-10-2009, 08:50 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
b,..........,
I don't understand the EBAY posting? These aren't for bid and I don't run a store through EBAY. The price of a single or 3-point roll bar is $325.00 and I will prep it for chroming. All you need to do is send a check to Diane Combs, (The boss at 4905 Wayne Av., Pentwater, Mi. 49449.
I of course fully guarnatee any bar and it WILL be shipped within 14 business days of getting your check. If I haven't shipped it within two weeks ( I can't see anything at this point that would delay shipping!) I will fully refund your money!
It will come complete minus the few pieces of hardware material (nuts and bolts) to mount it. Just let me know and I will get started even before your check gets here!
DV
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