Rollbars for Classic 427

cobra1966 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 08:57 PM

Please help , i have a Classic 427 roadster that we built and i am now looking to put the rollbars in this kit .1 is it possible to do so ? i have heard of a drill template that may be available is this true? and 2 how do i get parts (ie rollbar kit) ? there was a dealer in Warman Sasketchewan Canada but i stopped in there only to find that he left??? What can i do?

mickmate · #2 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 09:19 PM

I can help you out with roll bars.

tcrist · #3 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 09:32 PM

Search for rollbars on the CR forum. From what I understand the CR rollbar is different that the ones for other kits.
Mickmate, not trying to step on your toes here. I am sure you could build ones that would work.

Terry

mickmate · #4 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 09:40 PM

No worries, I'm just offering if he can't find them. I have made them for about 7 different breeds so far in two different diameters in single and double wide configurations.

cobra1966 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 09:41 PM

My main concern is the fit , ineed the exact places to drill the holes in the finihed body ?

tcrist · #6 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 09:49 PM

DV can help you with the locations. Look at the thread for capteddies build. There might be some info on there.

Terry

cobra1966 · #7 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 09:52 PM

Thanks Terry im kinda new to this site havin a little trouble navigating it lol, i appreciatte the help

Mike

mickmate · #8 (**permalink**) 05-10-2009, 10:01 PM

Terry could help you with hole locations he has them on his car.

Double Venom · #9 (**permalink**) 05-11-2009, 04:34 AM

Mike,
Yes, I can build you a three point- left or right or both or a full 4-point that goes from side to side. Their is no template as each bar is a little different. The bars are all made of 2" ODM roll bar material.

Putting them in after the body is done is no problem, just nerves and a litle time and caution.

I can make you a template to start with but you will need to finish it up with the roll bar(s) present.
They take the two inch bezels and gaskets (From Finishline) to finish them off.

Just tell me what type Drivers side 3-point, passanger side for 3-point or a full side to side four point. ALL bars fit under a top if you have one, in fact with a four-point you wont even need the top bows!

This is cpteddies 4-point:

DV
PS- Got your message but I think I have answered everything here?

G_Edmonds · #10 (**permalink**) 05-11-2009, 10:03 AM

Is there some way to mount a crossbar on a four point that is removable? I've just installed my 5 point harness and I'm not happy with the angle of the shoulder straps. You just can't get them tight enough to keep you from going forward. If there was some something to loop the straps over it would be much better. A friend that is a NHRA tech inspecter said he wouldn't pass it the way it is now. Thanks.

-Greg

Double Venom · #11 (**permalink**) 05-11-2009, 02:07 PM

Greg,
Trying to figure out what belts/seats you have and why you can go forward? What kind of mounting are you using for the back belts?
Obviously I have raced for many years all over the country and always passed tech without a problem? Only when I hit 11.01 did I get some pretty direct stares

(10.99 required a full cage!)

Anway I'm sure I can come up with something for you. How about a cross bar (will need to be welded) with four tabs welded on to bolt the harness' to?
A true legal cross bar that bolts in would be absolutely do-able but pretty darn exspensive!

DV
Or is that the whole point, to get away from welding?

G_Edmonds · #12 (**permalink**) 05-11-2009, 02:34 PM

DV,
I bolted a piece of angled steel to the structural piece under the "package tray". That was the only thing I could find back there to bolt to. If it was a little farther back I think it would be okay. I did consider welding in a crossbar but hoped to avoid it if possible just so I could keep the rollbar removeable. Especially since it is mostly cosmetic.

Double Venom · #13 (**permalink**) 05-11-2009, 05:19 PM

G..
That is the excellent answer, one we have used for years. On your angle piece, move it to the rear of the back deck and weld it in.(Top inside edge of the frame.) It will fit up flush with the back deck. That will move your harness back and put it in the legal 30's angle market. It will also take away all you belt slop! (I used to do this as SOP using a 3" wide by 3x16's piece of angle.)
DV

cobra1966 · #14 (**permalink**) 05-11-2009, 10:12 PM

Thats great DV i would like a 3 point drivers side . How much is it? Is it available in chrome? Can you have it chromed as its hard to find anyone here in Edmonton to do so. How do you want to be paid ? And how soon can i have one lol? also we dont have a finishline here in Canada so would it be possible you could include it with the rollbar?

TKS
Mike

Double Venom · #15 (**permalink**) 05-12-2009, 05:16 AM

Mike,
I'll do the pricing for you today, yes I can get it chromed for you but like everywhere else Chroming is getting rare and exspensive, (Thank you EPA

) Time is not a major factor-any more- but it will all depend on the Chromers! I can have the bar done for you within a week, the rest will depend on the chromers. I Can also order the grommets for you from Finishline, but so you know Enzo, Finishline can and does ship to Canada but no problem. Give me a day and I will gather up everything and let you know. A check or money order is fine but wait until I price it all out and then I will knock your socks off!

DV

mickmate · #16 (**permalink**) 05-12-2009, 06:18 AM

Hey Ed you're very right on the chroming. It has literally shut down dozens of chrome shops and the survivors are hit with huge waste disposal fees and proportionate price increases and paperwork. I had a pair of rollbars just quoted at $700, ouch! They are powdercoated now with a bonded chrome and clear top coat and look pretty decent.

Double Venom · #17 (**permalink**) 05-12-2009, 07:16 AM

Mick,
Right, the cost of waste disposal costs more than the actual chroming! I do like a 'good' powder coating with a clear coat on top. From up close and personal it can look like chrome but you can tell the difference- from ten feet away it all looks like chrome!
DV

cobra1966 · #18 (**permalink**) 05-12-2009, 05:44 PM

Thats Great DV i lookforward to hearing from you. Will you be able to make a paper template of some sort for drilling the holes as well or what would you recomend?And honestly if i have to pay extra to get it done quicker i will no problem

Double Venom · #19 (**permalink**) 05-14-2009, 04:47 AM

Fella,
I thought I send you an e-mail or PM on this, maybe I posted it on the forum? At any rate it is the chromers that will determine the - time-total cost. The chromer I had used is not, like so many other Chromers is now out of business. Locating a second chromer hopefully today. The bar is $345.00 plus shipping etc. As soon as I get a confirmation I'll be able to fill in all the blanks! Geesh, things used to be so straight forward.
DV

(A template is only good for a "rough" guideline since what we call the third leg or down bar goes in at such a sharp angle the template is only good for getting it close.)

Double Venom · #20 (**permalink**) 05-15-2009, 08:16 AM

Mike,
If this doesn't knock your socks off it will at least loosen them up a bit.........

Seems my chromer merged with two other companys. "estimated" but close if hopefully not over a little; Chrome $300.00
Roll bar $345.00 3-point drivers side- 2" ODM NHRA/SCCA approved.
Shipping - to Canada - unk at this time
Canadian to US Currency- you're going to have to tell me?
All prices are US.
Time- Unk. most likely building-chroming shipping three weeks?
Payment: Money order, wire transfer, check (little more time involved)
Next? It's up to you, Chromers are ready.
DV