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Old 05-20-2009, 06:41 PM
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Default I got my lift together...

Now I can see all the dirt and scratches on the bottom side..

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Old 05-20-2009, 08:10 PM
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Very nice. I've had mine for about 8 years. Don't know how I got by without one.

Jim
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:49 PM
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I want one too, someday. I guess you can only lift yours so high because of your heigth limitations. Can you set a limit so you can't raise your car into the garage door?
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:56 PM
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No. But as soon as I figure out how to do it I am raising my door height up to the ceiling.. Anyone know what to do?

If I close the door I can go all the way up to the top.
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:24 PM
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Get a comercial roll up door that rolls up on drum instead.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:05 PM
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You can get the rails lifted to almost the ceiling to give you more height.
They use longer vertical rails to get it up there. I recommend having the
garage door crew do it unless you are familiar with those springs, if you
have that type. It sure did the trick in my garages.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:06 PM
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Talk to a garage door installation company and ask them to install the "Hi-Lift" kit. I needed a new door anyway and they installed it then. They basically add about 2 feet of straight rail to a standard one but charged me an extra 200 bucks.
You have to have a high enough ceiling or rafters for clearance, I believe my rafters are at 10 feet. We modefied the stringers (think that's what they are called) to lift a standard size car.
I would take a picture but am currently at the location.
Ralph
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:10 AM
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I have a single stall garage and the MaxJax 2 post lift. Where I positioned my lift, I have only one panel of four, that keeps me from raising the whole door. The one panel is against my roll bar. If I had moved the lift more forward, the whole door would be up. But, that would have made it too close to my work bench and little room to walk around room. I have all kinds of space from the top of the roll bar to the ceiling

Before I bought mine, I thought of buying a door rail kit to have the rails just a few inches from the ceiling but, I really don't need it now. For $1,950 shipped, It's well,.....worth the price. Working on the cars makes life much,.....easier !
I also wish I had it long ago.

I love my lift !
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:28 AM
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O.F.M.,
A 'High Lift" modifacation will move the door less than 2.5"s of your ceiling. A little more involved than just adding a lenght to the rails, a second rail is added on each side that will allow the top section of the door to still close after it is moved into the down posistion. Nothing complicated, but yes I would use a guy that is familiar with them too.
They may have to go to a different spring sytem to get it as close as posible. The one shown is my door for my spray area.

DV
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:55 AM
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I've had mine a for a while.

Had to replace the hydraulic seals on both sides.

It is great for working on any car.

Yours looks very nice.

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Old 05-21-2009, 05:55 AM
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Onefastmustang,
What is your ceiling height?
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
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Onefastmustang,
What is your ceiling height?
Almost 10 feet. I would raise it but my kids sleep above there.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUNFER2 View Post
I have a single stall garage and the MaxJax 2 post lift. Where I positioned my lift, I have only one panel of four, that keeps me from raising the whole door. The one panel is against my roll bar. If I had moved the lift more forward, the whole door would be up. But, that would have made it too close to my work bench and little room to walk around room. I have all kinds of space from the top of the roll bar to the ceiling

Before I bought mine, I thought of buying a door rail kit to have the rails just a few inches from the ceiling but, I really don't need it now. For $1,950 shipped, It's well,.....worth the price. Working on the cars makes life much,.....easier !
I also wish I had it long ago.

I love my lift !
I gather you do love it. Mine was 1909 shipped with the casters, jack tray and oil drip pans. Two reasons I wouldn't go with what you bought though. We shouldn't drill into the concrete of our house as it is post tension and I wanted to store stuff on the lift. Like a car.
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:25 AM
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Yes, the four post is more for storing but, you can also work on cars, just more time consuming to set up than a two post. If I had the room, a 4 post would be nice.
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:28 AM
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I have 9.6 ft in my garage and have been thinking of getting a lift. The only issue I see is that I have a step in my garage that is about 3 feet and the length is 20 ft. This leaves me with 17 ft of flat area to work with.

This is a 2 car garage.
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Old 05-21-2009, 07:54 AM
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What I did before I ordered was lay it out with painters masking tape on the floor to get an idea of the foot print. I have the 3 car garage and have the cobra, 4 motorcycles and a jet-ski on trailier and still plenty of room for tools, junk, toolchest, workbench, refrigerator and christmas decorum.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:17 AM
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When I built my garage I knew I would be putting a lift in so I had it built with a 12' ceiling and a roll up door like this; http://www.buydoorsdirect.com/ . They come in all kinds of sizes and depending on what you want thay can be very reasonable $$.

Steve
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:59 AM
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I found a conventional garage door that looked like barn doors and had real barn doors made to match for the lift side. That gets me max headroom with no opener and I can get the lift to it's highest setting were I can stand under the car.





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Old 05-21-2009, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double Venom View Post
A little more involved than just adding a lenght to the rails, a second rail is added on each side that will allow the top section of the door to still close after it is moved into the down posistion...

DV
DV, the set up I have does NOT have the second set of rails as shown in your photo, and it closes just fine.
Ralph
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:48 PM
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I built my shop with 14' walls so I could make my doors 12' tall for the express purpose of installing a lift, and I would have had it already except that when I built my doors, three of them, I wanted 16' wide doors and 12 foot tall so that's the size I made the openings, well it turned out that over 8' they are now considered industrial doors, and it cost me $13,000 for the three door. now I have to decide whether to go with a 4 post or a 2 post.
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