Question-complaints

Double Venom · #1 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 04:02 PM

OK,
Well after an arduous winter, some nasty gremlins Cpteddies car is going home after the alignment, carpet, roll bar installation and a final buffing and detail.....

So... what have I missed? Questions, pictures-suggestions? (I very well remember running the harness and fuel line inside the frame rail! Shame on me!)

I'm starting one - maybe two in a week or two. Need a small break. Anything in particular I should cover in more detail? On second thought maybe everybody is pretty tired of my ramblings!

DV

tcrist · #2 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 04:38 PM

How about some more on pinion angle

.

We all learn more with each of your posts. Keep them coming.

Terry

sdfletch · #3 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 06:41 PM

DV,

How about explaining the reasons for rerouting the wire/line again. It's a bit fuzzy right now. Been a while.

rustyBob · #4 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 07:52 PM

keep up the good work.......which ones will you be doing next?

MaSnaka · #5 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 08:08 PM

I'd be interested in brakes. Upgrading the fronts and then later converting the rear drums to discs. Where do I start?

John

Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 08:24 PM

John,
What are you using now?

SD...,
You're jerking my rusty chain right? Oh well, I had just come back to CR'S/Club Cobra after taking a few years sabbatical and if I remember right the guys were talking about what they thought was the best way to run the harness, brake lines, etc. Well it seems a lot of the guys, because of a straighter route and actually easier, were running components down the inner frame rails, next to the tranny/flywheel, driveshaft, U-joints etc. I was going just over the edge....I have this thing about "safety" above all, so low and behold having that sermon burned into my brain cell, I turned right around and did the same thing as I was preaching against!

Actually, I just wanted to see who was paying attention!

If I remember right and not sure if I do, I think it was Masnaka who called me on it.

Rusty Bob (I like that name!)
Two more CR's. If you ever talk Dave Smith into turning loose those Mid Sate Cobras I think it would do us all good!

Wouldn't hurt him either.....hmm, then again maybe it would???

DV

MaSnaka · #7 (**permalink**) 08-24-2009, 10:39 PM

DV,
I don't think it was me on the routing issue. Probably Terry.

My brakes are 9" rotors on front and looks like 9" drums on the rear. The car stops but nothing like any modern car I drive. I would sure like the positive feel of better brakes. Got any ideas?

John

Double Venom · #8 (**permalink**) 08-25-2009, 05:13 AM

John,
I have found, using many different set ups that you can't beat an entirely designed system. No mixing matching. I am going to assume then that you are using the '87 Corvette MC ?

Leave the M/C and replace everything else with a matching set-up. Baer, Wildwood or the likes. The "9 & "9 works OK, but I
I'd like to see "11 & "11 or even 13".

Talk to whomever you choose tech. dept. they will confirm the M/C for you. These kits are pretty straight forward and usually come with everything you will need. The difference is truly day & night!

DV

trularin · #9 (**permalink**) 08-25-2009, 05:50 AM

Ed, not to change the subject, but are you thinking of doing the color run Todd is putting together?

Double Venom · #10 (**permalink**) 08-25-2009, 07:44 AM

Buddy I didn't know Todd was putting together a "color run"? You mean a fall type run?
Doesn't really matter this year-cobraless

Wont build my own again until maybe winter ??
DV

MaSnaka · #11 (**permalink**) 08-25-2009, 10:31 AM

DV,
How do I know if it's a '87 Corvette MC?

MotorcityCobra · #12 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 07:31 AM

One of the pics in CaptEddie's build shows how you lift the body off the frame by yourself. Looks like just two 20' towing straps, about a 14' 2x4, and a couple of clamps to keep the straps from coming off the end of the 2x4. Anything I'm missing... I prefer not to damage my body.

Thanks,

MC

Double Venom · #13 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 08:01 AM

Masnaka,
Sorry this took so long, I missed it....I think the best way is to go to your local parts store and pull one out of a box, then see if it matches yours? I would write a page describing it and you OR me wouldn't decipher it from one MC to another!

MC,
You've got it, about as low tech as you can get!
DV

MaSnaka · #14 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 11:14 AM

I discovered that the Wilwood website has pretty detailed tech sheet to help figure out what axel flanges and offsets you/I have. Taking the guess work out of selecting a kit. Now that I know what to do and where to go this project shouldn't be a problem...I know famous last words. I have put this one on hold for now, while I (I really mean my wife) recovers from a new clutch, pressure plate, and toploader rebuild, ouch! I am leaning towards a complete system replacement, fronts, rears and the MC.

John

jagrolet · #15 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 11:24 AM

Ed
Everything i have seen is A-1,i had the pleasure of speaking to you over the phone,and you were most kind.

I have been constructing cars,and machinery for 38 years,and never get tired of seeing work done well.

As a young boy i caught this disease with the fascination of anything that is loud,combusts something,and goes round in a circle,it is really something how we manage to make it into some really neat stuff!

Thanks again for the build

Wally

Double Venom · #16 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 12:48 PM

IT'S A DISEASE! AND THERE AIN'T NO CURE !!!!!

DV

jimhurtt · #17 (**permalink**) 09-05-2009, 11:23 AM

DV: Question please.

How difficult is it to take out the driver's side roll bar? When they built my classic CR (91) they did not put any bezels or grommets or anything around the base of the roll bar where the three tubes go into the body. I want to install the ones sold by Finish Line.

Jim

Double Venom · #18 (**permalink**) 09-05-2009, 02:58 PM

Jim,
Not a problem assuming they didn't weld any of the tubes together or at the rear down leg. One or two bolts will release the rear down leg from the bolted in pod that bolts to the lower frame. Two bolts going up from the crossmember, behind the seats, going into the roll bar, from below. One bolted or threaded nut holding the down leg and the hoop together. That's it. Twenty minutes should do it.

Now, your bar is or should be 1-7/8's inch tubing. Finish-lines smallest grommets and rings are for a 2" bar. Did it a lot, but there is a slight gap all the way around. I filled the gap with black RTV on many cars or left it open. (?)

DV

jimhurtt · #19 (**permalink**) 09-07-2009, 09:31 PM

Thanks DV for the roll bar info. Yes, they are 1 7/8" bars. But, the only set of bezels I have been able to find are the ones for 2" bars at Finishline. Guess I'll have to live with the gap. What is RTV?

Jim

Double Venom · #20 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 02:34 AM

Jim,
Permatex makes it, black and what they call Gold, but it's really red! Comes in a tube with an applicator nozzle. Fills the small Gap very well. Any auto parts store, Wally world, Meijers, etc. carries it. Actually made to be a gasket sealer.
DV