Owner built on a budget;

[Hray]

I think my car wants to dance, it seems to like this one step forward, and one step back, maybe I can teach it at least 2 steps forward and only one step back.

Cowl bar, I think the past owner was going to put in a wooden dash. it came with this big slab of wood that was cut out in the shape of a dash. he was thinking he would not need the metal lip, this morning I could see where he grinded off the welds and see paint lines where the metal piece was at one time. I can fab up one, and haven't looked yet but surely my other one still has the lip on it for references.

Got all the fluids in the trans, and rearend. began to fill up radiator for test firing. then discovered water pump leak. of which I would have planned on replacing anyway eventually prior to final assembly. guess I will do it today.

I decided I better find out exactly what motor I have so I can intelligently ask for parts at the store.

Here is what I know, and some of what I do not know, or at least questions to find answers to.

Block casting number, D4DE 6015 BA then below that is date code 7D27.

My research so far seems to indicate this block was first made in 1974 and used in Falcons, but we know falcons did not exist in 74, I will leave that discussion for another day.

The date code would be either April 27th 1977 or 1987, i think that these two only would be the most likely candidates.

Then on the drivers side near rear of block where bolted to bell housing is this hand stamped number w807070, I am guessing this is a stamped block identification number. I can not find any info on the web for this number.

The oil dip stick hole is in the timing cover below alternator area. The water pump does have the metal backing plate if that makes a difference.

I may have to look for casting numbers on the timing chain cover, and will eventually find the head casting numbers.

I know the heads are newer because they have these holes in the rear for exhaust recirculating gases as part of the smog. but I am sure those heads would fit on a 77 block, and really doubt those are 77 heads, 87 maybe. I know the bonco 86 heads did have the same setup.

I think I need to know all this stuff so I can order parts as needed with some intelligence.

I was able to run it for a few minutes, it does have a nice lope at idle, I think this indicates a mild cam.
later. Ray

[capteddie]

Here's what I found....

The Service Part Number (D4DE 6015 BA in this case) will not tell you when the block was cast. It only tells you what decade and year the part was originally relased for service (which is not necessarily the same year it was cast, although it may be the same), what model line it was originally released for, what engineering department was responsible for it's release, what the part is, and what design level (how many minor changes it has gone through) of the part is.

D = Decade of release (1970s)
4 = Year of release (1974)
D = Model line (Falcon 1960-69, Maverick 1970-74, Granada 1975-82, LTD 1983-up)
E = Engineering department (Engine)
6015 = Engine block
BA = Design level (starts with A then B, C, D etc, then AA, AB, etc)

There is a Date Code on the block. It's in the same area as the Service Part Number. The Date Code will tell you the exact day the block was cast. It is arranged in a YMD(D) fashion and will look something like 6D23 (which would be April 23, 19x6).

[Hray]

cap eddie: thanks for info, my date code is 7d27 which i think means 1977, and april the 27th.

progress report: got new water pump installed, asked for a water pump for 77 ford pick-up, it matched perfect.

once all water leaks got stopped I brought it out side for a little running of the motor. i uploaded a short video of it at www.flickr.com/belair567 but was not able to find the url to link it here it is file number 0404.

Question or observation: What is the possibility that the heads on this which are from at least an 80's truck would have larger valves or higher compression and therefore the previous owner that had the engine built knew this and got some horsepower at a more reasonable cost that purchasing aftermarket heads. i guess once I find the casting numbers on head I might know the answer to that.

Now something close to all our hearts; Paint brand to use.

Can you please share with me which brand and then which system you use and why. If indeed PPG is the best for my money then so be it. But, if another off brand is equally good I am not opposed to that either. It will be a base coat clear coat system for sure.

Gotta go into office tomorrow so most likely not much progress for tomorrow.

later Ray

[Hray]

No work on car itself yesterday, but did get a body dolly fabricated and the car on it.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3505/...02d8ca44_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/...04312765_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3536/...6b5d6506_b.jpg


The car is sitting on platform behind the seats and you can see on the pic of the front sitting on the inner fenders. Does anyone see that I need another support under the dash. Since the doors have not been cut out yet I do not think so, but maybe someone has better insights on this.

I only have a basic two car garage work space so I need to be able to roll the chassis and body around for work space, or to whell them out in the driveway.

Off work today so should be at least 8 hours on the car, hopefully the cooling fan installed, and maybe a short cruze up and down the driveway.

later Ray

[48ford]

Are you guys refring to the piece of flat stock attached to the bottom of the rear cowl bar? (that's what the photo looks like to me)
My Classic kit does not have one either. I just thought the dash set on top of the bar. If I am mistaken please let me know.
What is it used for?
Thanks
(Sorry spelling is the worst thing I do)
Rip vw

[tcrist]

The lip is the piece of thin sheet stock that is welded to the upper section of the cowl bar on the cockpit side. The lip of the dash rests on top of that lip when the dash is installed.

If you plan on using a wooden dash or a metal one that is of flat sheet stock that would attach to the cowl bar using screws, then you would not need the lip on the cowl bar.

Terry

[Hray]

On that cowl bar flat stock, i think it goes about the middle of the cowl bar, at least by seeing the paint lines on mine as to where it went that seems to be it. I will take a picture, and also measure my other one that has not been modified and let you know the sizes,

afternoon update, I had this used electric fan that was way too big to fit the radiator, I looked in summit catalog last nite and it seems like I was going to need one that cost at least 150.00. I went out this moring and remeasured and decided to cut this one up I had and remake it to fit this radiator. Seeing as how it has 9 blades and was very wide I am going to guess it will pull enought air.

this is the pic prior to modifying.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2619/...fa69ed5e_b.jpg

this is the fan installed passenger side
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2649/...969eb6b3_b.jpg

this if fan drivers side
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3442/...63da580d_b.jpg

I like the way it turned out, the shroud is pulling from nearly every row and coil. Cost for Fan free as it was junk inventory, cost for epoxy glue to reassemble was $20.00

While epoxy was sitting up I made some rear straps to weld on the frame so I could have easier access for something to secure to for trailering.

pic of tie down strap.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3507/...e3fe928d_b.jpg

later

[rustyBob]

fan shroud looks great and the tie down straps are a good idea that way you dont have to crawl around under the car to tie it down....keep up the good work Ray

[48ford]

Hray that would be great if you could get a photo and some measurements. I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Rip

[Hray]

overall update: since I started about 10 days ago I have logged in 68 hours on the car, that leaves 432 remaining in my estimate: I have spent $450.00 and that leaves the estimated budget at $2550.00

I need paint, (i would like a roll bar) anybody got one or can you let me know the most reasonble way to go. I want it more structural than pretty. and then something to finish the exhaust system with. would be nice to ceramic coat them, might just be paint for this time around. Then I am sure a bunch more of small ticket items. I can go over on the estimated time since I work for free, the budget at this time can not go too much over.

tonite I ran the motor for just over an hour in the shop, oil pressure between 40 to 80. running without thermostate and temp was between 170 and 190. I alternated between idle and very very high idle, i am guess about 2000 rpm.

at idle it was running at 170 and that was a very very low idle. fan seems to be working great.

That cowl bar: II did measure it and the strap is a half inch down from the top of the cowl bar. it appears to stop about 4 inches from each end. I forgot to measure the wideth but I am guessing it to be about 1/8 inch by 3/4 inch steel strap iron. It is not sheet metal, it is heavy enough to be steel. If you look at the back of your dash you should be able to determine what depth you can have at the most. It might be half inch, but I think more like 3/4.

Here is a picture of the marks on mine where it was cut off.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3515/...734763ee_b.jpg

So far I am enjoying the build, we will see how well I hold up over the long haul. And those words of encouragement from you guys does help. It actually places a little pressure on me because I feel like someone out there is looking for a progress report therefore I feel committed to the process.

Hope this diary and my ramblings do help someone else down the road.

later Ray

[Krewton]

Ray,

I'll show you what we are doing on the roll bar next week when we come by. Emerson is making it for us.

Krewton

[onetrackrider]

I measured mine, It's 1/8" thick by 1" wide. Placement is 5/8" down from the top of the cowl bar in the center & 1/2" at the ends. If I had not located a dash I would of cut it off & made the dash out of plywood. I can send a pic if you want I just need a e-mail add.
Matt

[Hray]

Krewton: Let me know what day you are going to Emersons, if ok, I may tag along with you. I might be interested in getting him to make me one, if within my budget. I do have benders and presses and might be able to fabricate one up myself. I have been having chats with myself on exactly how to make and mount it.

Ray

[Krewton]

Ray,
We are flying into Sacramento on Tuesday afternoon and was going to drive up and spend the night in Redding. You are welcome to join us. Send me your email and I'll send you some pictures of the roll bars and mounts. They are not real cheap, but we can discuss next week.
Krewton

[rustyBob]

Ray dont beat your self up building you Cobra sometimes its nice to take a step back and clear your head and get a different look at things.A trip to redding with Krewton may be a good thing. Emmerson builds a nice Cobra.

[Hray]

bob: I hear you on taking time to regroup, sometimes just gotta sit down and recycle yourself, problem is it now takes longer to recycle than it used to.

Today I think was a good day, I filed my retirement papers at work, oct 10, is last day on the ole bosses payroll. Problem is that I have expensive habits so I gotta still find a part time job. I think I have some stuff lined up.

On to the cobra: first off had to spend an hour working on the wifes bmw z3, the back windscreen needed some fixing.

then cleaned shop for a while, got the car on rolling dollies, and then rolled the body into the shop area. Ground off the casting lines on the steering u-joints and cleaned up nice and got them primed, then ground a few welding splatters off the chassis, then thought I would block sand the body for an hour. the body seems to be fairly straight, of course the little highs and lows near the body seams where they bolted the molds together. got half way around it and so far nothing glaring jumped out. hoping it will only take 3 or 4 block sandings to get it ready for paint. we will see.

total time on car and cleaning shop 3 hours. no money spent today, that is a good thing.

[Hray]

Remade the steering column support tonite, basically welded on two pieces of angle iron and then cut the strap. This allows removal of the column without taking out that very top single bolt that would be nearly impossible to access after the car is built. I owe Terry thanks for that little tip.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3463/...72bd5a9c_b.jpg

then I rewelded on the mounting strap to the cowl bar which holds up the dash. Previous owner removed it for a wooden dash, I wanted the custom dash that came with car.

here is cowl strap back on.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3511/...09243ffe_b.jpg

past two days got 8 hours on build, balance of hours is 424. Spent no money so still got 2550.00 in budget.

Looking ahead to the roll bar. Bear with me as I have a discussion with myself, and maybe someone can give me some feed back.

I do not think I want a large roll bar, I think the car is rather small in size and so a smaller bar would seem to also fit my theme with the car. Under the hood will be no chrome at all. Most everything will be painted, in black and silver. Maybe valve covers, intake, and air filter will be satin aluminum. The dash gages are all black with white and red lettering, trim around gages are semi gloss black. Dash might be painted but leaning toward covering with vinyl or maybe black textured paint like the MG;s had.

The car is not going to be a fire breathing dragon, just a nice sounding and running cruiser. Therefore I do not need the cosmetic stuff to support the fire breathing dragon attitude for the car.

This leads me to thinking about a smaller diameter roll bar, about 1 3/4 inch, maybe two, maybe 1.5 inch. I was thinking solid steel single bar that would cover both passengers. and I am thinking black or if stainless steel then keeping it satin finish on the stainless. Then under the roll bar I am thinking of installing a wind screen, similar to the one on my wifes bmw. with the top down it sure cuts down on the turbulence for the passengers. I think I want the roll bar just a couple inches shorter than the top of the windshield, and maybe more.

I also am thinking of some sort of quick disconnect for the roll bar. I have this fiberglass top from a 67 MG roadester laying around. I can modify this to fit the car. would not use glass in back window, and not using side curtains, just a top to keep the hot sun off when driving in summer conditions.

Just doing some thinking ahead, if anyone has insights please offer, or better yet if you have some pictures to either convince me to either do it or not do it that would be appreciated.

Later and Happy Motoring. Ray

[48ford]

Good photos, and tip, thanks for posting.
Rip

[Double Venom]

Ray,
Just my 2-cents again, please don't short change installing a roll bar. Hitting even nothing more than a curb sideways for any reason; " a T-Bone" hit at an intersection can roll these things over, let alone in a racing environment.

Yes, I make roll bars, but I am not trying to sell you one, just trying to get you to put one in that can literally be the difference between living an dying. It HAS to be above the windshield, actually 3"s above your head to be legal, 1-7/8's diameter DOM steel (Ours are 2") and a wall thickness of at least .120.

As stated on other threads this is not truly race legal in some sanctions but they will pass any sanctioned racing event for 12 second convertibles. Note if you want a real full length (across the back-called a 4-point or even a 5-point) to provide for the driver and the passenger go back to Cpt. Eddies post and take a look at his four point bar.

Please, just spend some of that budget on a much needed safety device no short cuts here.
DV

[Hray]

DV: thanks for insights, I do think 2 inch is an ok size. I was wondering if solid steel rather than tubing would provide needed support. and then I would add plenty of gussets inside the car to accept the roll bar. I am not afraid of butchering up the inside and under side to make room for the other connecting points. I was looking at the emerson set up, and would like to even provide more bracing than that but still only have either one single or maybe two roll bars with no exposed bracing. so the real question is can it be really braced sufficient, and is there a stout enough bar that will not fold without the external bracing.

Thanks and no problem about insulting me, that is why I posted it, to get insights. good thing is my wife and I are only 5.6 inches tall so we would not have to have the roll bar real high to make it 3 inches above our heads.

Ray