I am finally able to afford a Cobra Replica - Please help me decide on one

[mrmustang]

"How to buy a used Cobra"

Editors Note:
Ok, the first thing you have to ask yourself is "how much money am I willing to spend for a used Cobra", and what my usage is going to be. Now, by usage, I mean a either a daily driver, weekend cruiser, show car/trailer queen, 1/4 mile drag racer, road racer, or any combination of the above. Once you have set your budget and have a pretty good idea of what you want to initially spend, your next goal is to find the right car for you. Whether your spending $22,000, or $150,000 should not matter at this point, as I've personally seen beautiful, well built cars at $22,000, and some truly horrible cars with over $100,000 in to the build.


Your qualifications:
Know your strengths and weaknesses when shopping for a used Cobra, if you know bodywork, and not the mechanicals, take along someone who has a greater mechanical ability than yourself. Vice versa if your strengths are in the mechanical end of things, and not the cosmetics. Two sets (or more) of eyes are always better than one.

If your going to see a cobra in person:

What to look for:
Fit: How does the body sit on the chassis, do the doors, hood, trunk all line up?

Finish: How is the paint, are there runs, drips, sags. Does the paint have a nice shine to it, or does it need to be buffed out or stripped and repainted?

Interior condition: Does the interior show a lot of aging, do the seats need to be recovered.

Mechanical: Are there any leaks or drips under the car? What about the overall appearance, does the car look like it was well taken care of, or does it look like it was ridden hard and abused.

Engine: Again, any leaks or fluid drips, how does it sound (this can be tough on a car such as the Cobra). Check the engine warm, cold, at partial throttle and at idle. Make sure to check the temperature gauge once the car is warmed up and at idle. Also check to make sure the thermostatically controlled fan (if so equipped) kicks in when it is supposed to.

Transmission: Take the car out for a road test if possible (don't expect to let the seller to allow you to drive it), does the clutch work properly, does the transmission shift smoothly through the gears. Check for leaks here as well.

Rear End: Does the rear end clunk, leak fluids (check behind rear rims for signs of fluid, along with the front and rear of the differential housing)

Suspension: Check the bushings, do they look cracked and worn out, if so, factor in replacements to your costs. What about the shocks (coil overs or ???), if you ask the seller to push down on each corner, watch the rebound, if they bounce forever, then expect to replace them. If the car is equipped with coil over shocks, set the car on an even surface and see if the car sits level or not. if so, then the shocks do not have to be adjusted, if not, then expect a few hours getting things right.

Brakes: If you place your hand on the front disks (do this before the car has been driven), can you feel any grooves in the disk itself? Does the brake pedal feel firm when your sitting in the car, what about on the test drive, ask the seller to do at least one hard braking maneuver so that you can tell whether the brakes are adjusted correctly for the car. Some cars will have a combination of disks and drums, others will have four wheel disk brakes. If set up correctly, a disk/drum set up will work for all but the most extreme usage (IE: heavy road racing, endurance racing, etc).

Wheels: Are the wheels balanced, bolted on, or held on with knock off's? Bolt on wheels are a matter of personal preference, if you like what is on the car, great, if not, factor in a replacement some time down the road. Knock off's should be checked to make sure they are tight, if the knock offs and safety wired on the car, that shows a level of attention worthy of a good owner/seller....

Tires: Are the sidewalls cracked, are the DOT approved, radials or biased ply? What about the sizing, do the fronts both match? What about the rears?

Electrical system: Do all of the lights function, hi beams, lo beams, turn signals, brake lights, horn, etc? What about all of the gauges, do they read correctly?

If your buying a Cobra sight unseen:

Use the above as a reference guide as to what questions need to be asked. If the owner is forthcoming with detailed answers, then you can feel a little more comfortable in dealing with them. if the answers are a little more ambiguous and vague, then perhaps the owners is trying to hide something, or does not really have any mechanical ability or qualifications to answer the questions above..If this is the case, and your still interested in the car, pay to have the car professionally looked at by a qualified inspection service.

In closing, most of the above is all based on common sense. Don't let your emotions get involved in the decision whether to purchase one car or another. Also don't let other so called "experts" sway you to this brand or that, after all, it's your money, not theirs that your planning to spend..Finally, if you need assistance, or don't understand something fully, feel free to ask questions.

[joey_hv]

just go to factory five and get it over with.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by joey_hv

just go to factory five and get it over with.

Uhhh, but he said in his very first post that he wanted a car "That is a close replica of the original."

[767Jockey]

I've always sort of kept it to four basic questions:

Fiberglass or aluminum body?

Round tube or square tube frame?

Independent rear suspension or live axle?

Perfect body dimensions to original or is there "variance" from the original tolerated?

Answering these four questions will usually sort out a very long list into a very short one, making the resulting group easy to make a choice from.

For me, it was fiberglass (can't fit aluminum into the budget), IRS was a must, round tube frame was a must, and a body as close to the original as possible within budget. That left me with a short list of Shelby, HiTech and Contemporary. I found a Contemporary in terrible shape for a reasonable price that I'm restoring from the frame up. Hopefully this helps you, good luck and enjoy - the hunt is as much fun as the catch.

[Ron AZ]

Scrivy.... I had a Cobra for about 3 years and it was built from ground up by a local builder in AZ and he did a wonderful job. I enjoyed the car and have sold it. If I were to consider another Cobra, my first stop would be with Keith Craft (Dallas, TX). He will build you a Superformance for $58,000 and you can choise your own color and several of the options and with his car you get a 2 year warranty. I have only heard outstanding comments about Keith Craft Cobras and his motors.

Once you see his car, then look at others, new and used and that would give you a great starting point. There are a lot of great deals out there right now due to the poor economy. Take your time.

Ron AZ

[PDUB]

There are several good manufacturers out there. As said before, ERA and Kirkham are good cars. I would also suggest checking out the Unique cars. Unique is my personal choice, but you'll do well with any of these three.

[TButtrick]

Here's a nice non-donor FFR that will be ready in the spring. 8000 miles on car and 0 miles on 347 carb'd stroker. Turn-key for $40k. This started as a donor car but all has been replaced with new except pedal box, rear transaxle (3 link) and transmission which is rebuilt to Z specs.

[lovehamr]

My advise would be to "try on" any Cobra who's manufacturer tickles your fancy. I'm 6'2" but I'm also about 280 and I found that I don't fit into quite a few Cobras. So you may want to do like I did before I took the plunge and go to a few large Cobra meets like the London Cobra Show or similar and look at, and sit in, a variety of them. This hands-on (azz-on?) approach may give you a dirrection to travel. Plus you'll have great fun.

Steve

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

rear transaxle (3 link) and transmission which is rebuilt to Z specs.

If it has a transaxle why does it have a transmission as well?

Steve

[Rickd]

Very hiqh quality - looks exactly like the original - that is the ERA in glass or the Kirkham in aluminum. Use some frequent flyer miles and visit ERA in New Britain, Ct. Finely engineered cars, custom built for each driver's needs. Tall / Short / medium, not a problem. You can see the shop where they make the glass body, outstanding chassis, the really cool rear racing suspension with the outboard brake assembly. And talk to Peter, Bob, and Doug, the guys who have been building them for over 20 years. (they build a 289 FIA body, a 427 SC body, and also a GT40). Rick

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

Here's a nice non-donor FFR that will be ready in the spring. 8000 miles on car and 0 miles on 347 carb'd stroker. Turn-key for $40k. This started as a donor car but all has been replaced with new except pedal box, rear transaxle (3 link) and transmission which is rebuilt to Z specs.

Scrivy -- this is a perfect example of why you need to learn your cars. Note the difference above the rear wheels. This may not bother you, or it may be a "deal killer.' Either way, before you buy you should be at a point where little things like this jump out at you.

[TButtrick]

But then again, you can't buy an ERA done to this level for $40K. And it has a single rollbar.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

But then again, you can't buy an ERA done to this level for $40K. And it has a single rollbar.

Absolutely true. But what I would advise Scrivy to do is to "elevate his knowledge" about our cars so that he avoids learning about the little details after his choice is in the garage. Stuff like rear fenders, door lines, windshield angle, could really detract from his enjoyment if he cultivates an appreciation for them after he buys a car. I love to make fun of FFR cars, but the truth is I really like their shape. Scrivy needs to gain an appreciation for the differences and then decide what he wants and what he can afford. But he shouldn't buy anything until he knows what he's looking at.

[madmaxx]

Go to cobra country, greater cincinatti performance cars has a new bdr with a fully polished roush 427sr for $49,900. 92" wheel base gives plenty of leg room. I do not think there is a better deal right now, my gut feeling is if you wanted a different color he would build one for about the same price but that is just my opinion and I have not spoken with him. Your next best deal on a new spf would be shane miller at dynamic. Depending on what state you live in there are huge advantages to buying new. For example in Texas you do not pay sales tax the first time you title an assemlbed vehicle. on a $60K car this saves $3600. Remeber with new you get a warranty, but warranties are all but useless unless you have a catastrophic problem unless the dealer is 2 miles from your house.

[TButtrick]

Given his criteria, I'd wait for the Factory Five Dick Smith clone and have the best of everything he's looking for with change to spare. I can point out inaccuracies with the best of them and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

...and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

Yeah, yeah, yeah... did they ever get around to cleaning up that rear shock mess? You know, the one that was preceded by the "Danger - Do Not Drive Your Car" announcement.

[TButtrick]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yeah, yeah, yeah... did they ever get around to cleaning up that rear shock mess? You know, the one that was preceded by the "Danger - Do Not Drive Your Car" announcement.

It was the front shocks and yes it was cleaned up. I didn't have the poorly-recommended Bilstein shocks myself so I never had an issue. +60,000 plus miles on my FFR and no problems, no squeeks, no rattles to report. I'd buy another in a heartbeat. No regrets and I have two in the garage.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

It was the front shocks and yes it was cleaned up.

Ahhh, memories... like the corners of my mind.

Here's one of the threads, for posterity.... Factory Five Warning!

Originally Posted by jhv48

FACTORYFIVERACING
Senior Charter Member



Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 368 That does it.

To:****** All FFR customers:* If you are driving an FFR chassis kit that uses Bilstein shock absorber part numbers:
*
F4BE3 A273-T0
F4BE3 A273-T1
F4BE3 A273 T0 SR

Stop driving your car immediately.

There is a possibility that the shock absorbers on your car may break/fail and could result in your injury or the injury of others.

These numbers are stamped on the shock body and these shocks were used on the front suspension and the rear independent suspension kits from about 2003 to August 1, 2008. *If you do not know how to determine if your car is affected, please call us at 508-291-3443 and ask for technical support.

There are no further answers for you guys tonight. I will be directing the staff at FFR to communicate this initial message to all affected customers via our website, our mailing list and records, and verbally to our customers, suppliers and clients.

I am truly sorry for this inconvenience and look forward to being able to communicate an action plan to all of you shortly.


Dave Smith
President


This was just posted to the FFR Forum, thought everyone should be aware.

[redss454]

from my experience the questions you asked are good ones here is my 2 penny's worth.

want a kit that has pieces that all fit together well without a need to fabricate parts.
Most of the kits today come together with little fab work but a lot of adjustments.

Good backroad handling and bump handling with good wheel travel.
you should run a small block for the good handling and light weight on the front end. a 5 speed will give you the great feeling of being in control of the ride.
Fits a person at least 6' 3" tall.
get the extended kit it will give you room to grow.you can place the pedals and seat where you want them.
That is a close replica of the original.
they all look good when painted and decorated the correct way.(original) when you put these kits next to an original cobra the kits look 5 times better.
that is my opinion, I could be wrong.
what ever you do, have some fun with it.and when you are done it is your original car. good luck Jim

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by TButtrick

Given his criteria, I'd wait for the Factory Five Dick Smith clone and have the best of everything he's looking for with change to spare. I can point out inaccuracies with the best of them and if the FFR shape were spot on as is planned for the #198 car, there wouldn't be a better deal out there IMHO.

Again, it's important for him to have full knowledge of all that is different in these cars that we all enjoy so much. He may not understand yet that with FFR he's going to get a solid rear axle (yes, I know he can get an IRS, but percentage wise few of these are built). He needs to know the difference, and what plusses and minuses these solid axles bring to the table. I'm not knocking FFR's, so any of you FFR guys please don't get your panties in a wad as some are prone to do around here when "their" cars are spoken about. FFR serves a niche in this industry and it serves it well, but at the end of the day, like any other car they have their plusses and they certaily have their minuses. The shape of the body is only one of them. He neeeds to sit back and learn about all the cars and the features that differentiate all of threm. ONly then can he make his choice. We are all too often eager to tell people that "our" brand car is infallible and clearly the choice to those looking, and often this is simply not the best advice. Education without bias is the key. It is often very hard to find around here.