Hi Ya'll

cavedog57 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-17-2009, 12:21 PM

New member and Cobra owner for the past three years. Purchased an old(er) replica ('88 NAF 427 street) before I realized what I had gotten myself into. Drove it for a (short) while, patched it up here and there, then decided (more like forced) to rebuild the engine and re-gear.

Did a little research and discovered that I was the fifth owner; car was originally built for amateur competition (drag and auto-cross?) and optioned with "competition" suspension and brakes (have the original invoice). Chassis, coil-over suspension (four link rear w/ panhard bar) and brakes (front discs and rear drum) are all in excellent condition. Body and trim are in very good to excellent condition with low miles (about 7500) and the car drives well, but the engine was trashed from a combination of high rear-end gears, abuse and lack of proper maintenance (found a split roller lifter tip and needle bearings in the pan).

At this point, have almost completed rebuilding the engine (need to locate some old FMS J302 aluminum cylinder heads as machine shop damaged mine), installed a remote oil filter and Mocal cooler, reworked the cooling system, re-geared from 4.11 to 3.55 (transmission is a small shaft Toploader) and re-plumbed the fuel system (not to mention numerous other maintenance chores and minor upgrades).

Before the cylinder heads gave up their ghosts on the dyno, the engine made 380 hp @ 5900 rpm and 397 ft/lbs torque @ 4600 rpm with a replica Cobra intake, Mallory ignition and untuned Holley 650 HP carb. Bottom-end is a "0" balanced, forged 331 ci, 10.3:1 cr stroker equiped with a Canton oil pan, block girdle, and windage tray, and a blueprinted high volume Melling oil pump. Am running a small hydraulic roller cam (Comp 35-425-8, XR282RF-HR) with a duration of 230/236 @ .050 and .513/.529" lift.

Looking forward to completing the rebuild and getting it sorted out -- my wife is antsy and ready to go for a ride! Once the engine is completed, will tackle some other "finishing" issues (weather striping, bumper and rollbar grommets, brake duct and oil cooler screens, re-carpet the cockpit and refinish the trunk).

See ya'll out on the road... soon!

Dave

rustyBob · #2 (**permalink**) 05-17-2009, 07:31 PM

Welcome Dave, sounds like you must be getting ready for some high speed fun and glad the misses is as going to enjoy this to........

olddog · #3 (**permalink**) 05-17-2009, 08:17 PM

Welcome.

If you don't find the heads, I would think that aluminum heads could be repared. The shop that screwed them up should be willing to spend some time on them.

I take it that the heads do not have the stock exhaust port locations - from a different thread. Call Keith Kraft for advise. He may know of another head that has the same port locations as yours. This may open up more options for you. He may also be able to repair your heads.

Good Luck

cavedog57 · #4 (**permalink**) 05-17-2009, 09:34 PM

Thanks for your replies.

Originally bought the car for the missus ;>) -- she complained long and loud (called it harping and she really got p*$$@d) about my solo seat motorcycles and backroad blasts. Hate carrying a passenger -- it really upsets the balance of a good performance bike and I'm not ready for an old man's motorcycle (aka HD). So... always liked Cobras (great power to weight ratio), and think I might be in love with this one.

Have been looking into having the heads repaired. Might be possible, but the damage is in several of the upper exhaust port bolt holes (drilled into the water jacket when installing heli-coils). This is just one of several problems I had with the shop -- will never darken that door again.

The exhaust ports are raised 1/16th of an inch over stock and much wider. Because of their width, standard header flanges that use the stock Ford exhaust bolt pattern will partially cover the port (and thereby severely restrict flow). Ford used a second exhaust bolt pattern, similar to that found on Cleveland heads, to allow use of much larger primary tubes (mine are 1-7/8") and room for porting.

Purchased my stroker kit from Keith. As I understand it, there may be a few heads that use the same bolt pattern, but all seem to be high-end, semi-finished castings destined for professional porting and high rpm race use. Apparently NASCAR head porters like the room the bolt pattern offers. I've read this in a few places, and it may be true, but I've also found a few sites that offer templates for header flanges and exhaust gaskets -- the J302 pattern is just one among many "splayed" patterns for aftermarket Ford heads. On the other hand, I can get a FelPro exhaust gasket in one day from any parts store -- pretty quick for an extinct Motorsport head.

Clois Harlan · #5 (**permalink**) 05-18-2009, 05:02 AM

We are all glad you're here Dave. This site as you know can usually provide you with about any information you may need to complete your project. Weather is right for most of us to be out in our Cobra's. Of course some of you Floridians have a little longer time to enjoy your cars than the rest of us but we don't hold grudges (except in January and February)

.

Clois

cavedog57 · #6 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 10:32 AM

Hi Clois,

Thanks for your reply. Sorry to say, but I missed this spring -- head down and buried in the garage. Cobra is getting there, slowly, but getting there.

Am trying to find a set of J302 cylinder heads right now -- pulled the headers last night and had a gallon or so of coolant on the floor. Machine shop I used was a real disaster. Will find a set soon I hope.

In any case, am looking forward to getting it out on the road, wind in the hair...

Dave

olddog · #7 (**permalink**) 05-25-2009, 03:00 PM

I'm no machinest, but I did stay in a holiday inn last month.

It would seem to me that if they drilled into a water jacket, it could be fixed. Tap the hole almost to the bottom, so that the threads go to the bottom but are tapering. Then use something like a set screw. The tapering threads should act similar to a pipe thread and the set screw should tighten up at the bottom. A good sealer on the threads should then give you that extra layer of protection.

Maybe this will give someone else a better idea.

cavedog57 · #8 (**permalink**) 06-02-2009, 08:22 PM

Thought about your set screw idea olddog. It might work on one where he barely penetrated the water jacket, but the other hole was drilled completely open (i.e.: nothing to seat the set screw against).

It seems I have two choices (well, three if you count replacement) -- TIG weld the holes closed from the bottom up then drill and tap a new hole, or simply install the header bolts with lots of Permatex Ultra Black sealant both in the hole and on the threads.

Right now I've opted for the latter as I look for replacements. First attempt worked on one hole while the second hole had a "weep". Drove the car approx one hundred plus miles (8 hot/cold cycles) and neither changed.

Just removed the headers, changed the exhaust gaskets, and reinstalled. No leaks, but haven't run it yet (tomorrow if the weather is good) but let's see what happens once it's got some miles on the tires.

Once I find replacements and get them on the car, I plan to have this head repaired (i.e.: TIG welded).

cavedog57 · #9 (**permalink**) 06-21-2009, 12:15 PM

Hi all,

Well the engine is up and running -- Permatex Ultra Black is holding the coolant in on the damaged exhaust bolt holes -- and I've found and purchased two additional J302 cylinder heads as well.

Have, more or less, got the old 650 DP Holley dialed in; it's lean and clean at idle and pulls hard through the gears. Have thought about trying to setup the 650 HP carb but, since I've also got a Quick Fuel SS-750-AN for the engine, am thinking I'll just sell it.

Right now I'm tracking down an intermittent vibration in the drivetrain (believe it is either the accessory drive belt or a throwout bearing issue) and a significant oil leak somewhere around the timing cover. Plan to replace the Gilmer belt accessory drive w/ a v-belt in the next week or so and am fabricating a return spring perch for the clutch lever arm. Hopefully the oil leak isn't the front main seal, but... we'll see.

The new J302s have some bowl blending and short radius work, but are otherwise stock. Got flow numbers along with them which show about 245-250 cfm on the intake and 200-203 exhaust at my cam's max lift. Will see what they can do in the near future.

rustyBob · #10 (**permalink**) 06-21-2009, 09:51 PM

wow glad to hear things are looking up for you on those heads keep up the good work and thanks for letting us know how things are goeing.

Clois Harlan · #11 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 05:40 AM

Sounds like you have made good progress. Now is the time to be enjoying the cobra between your 4:00 daily rain showers

I have a friend that is using a gilmer drive and might be interested in your parts if you decide to sell them.

Take some more pictures and post them here. It sounds like you going to have a pretty strong ride there.

Clois

cavedog57 · #12 (**permalink**) 06-23-2009, 12:12 AM

Hi Clois,

Will post some pics of the gilmer pulleys soon. If he's interested, let me know.