Hurricane HMS2002 build thread part II - Page 2

dlampe · #21 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 08:58 AM

I have the inner panels in and the holes drilled for all of the 3 inch hose.

I think I have a way to make the brake cooling more efficient and the fresh air duct air cooler. Instead of pulling the brake duct air from the original position, I think I am going to pull the brake cooling from the radiator area where I was planning to pull the fresh air. This will give me the clearance I need and address the concern early in the Part I build thread about the temperature of the air pulled from in front of the radiator.

PurpleVenom · #22 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 03:10 PM

Don't know how much air you are going to get behind the radiator without a fan. NASCAR has their brake duct hose going to the lowest point in front of the car. Even if it's 140 degree track temp, that is cooler than the surface of the rotor. A little heat actually helps, don't it? Also, I see a lot of bends, best to keep the hose as straight as possible. Check out these articles:
http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...rol/index.html

http://www.nascar.com/2002/kyn/tech/...rakes_cooling/

http://www.ericjacobsen.org/sho/brakes/brkmgr.htm

ebustin · #23 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 04:34 PM

Where did you get the brake duct tubes mounted to the sindle area?

MFE III · #24 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 05:59 PM

"I think I have a way to make the brake cooling more efficient and the fresh air duct air cooler. Instead of pulling the brake duct air from the original position, I think I am going to pull the brake cooling from the radiator area where I was planning to pull the fresh air. This will give me the clearance I need and address the concern early in the Part I build thread about the temperature of the air pulled from in front of the radiator.
Dean, you'll have to run the fresh air hose above where you've got the brake cooling inlet. Another option is to use the a brake duct piece that has two outlets. I don't have a link to those on this computer, but I have seen them. Just be sure to keep the hose very tight to the fender panel. I'm running the same hose as you and even though I ran it very tight to the fender liner, I do get some wheel rub.
Looking good!
Matt

LMH · #25 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PurpleVenom

Don't know how much air you are going to get behind the radiator without a fan. NASCAR has their brake duct hose going to the lowest point in front of the car. Even if it's 140 degree track temp, that is cooler than the surface of the rotor. A little heat actually helps, don't it? Also, I see a lot of bends, best to keep the hose as straight as possible. Check out these articles:
http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...rol/index.html

http://www.nascar.com/2002/kyn/tech/...rakes_cooling/

http://www.ericjacobsen.org/sho/brakes/brkmgr.htm

It is taking in air in front of the radiator. The radiator is about where the diagonal brace is.
Larry

PurpleVenom · #26 (**permalink**) 05-27-2010, 09:05 PM

Yep, I misread the post Larry regarding where the fresh air will be coming in.

LMH · #27 (**permalink**) 05-28-2010, 12:05 AM

I wonder if an original style brake duct would still hit the tire?
Another thing to consider would be to limit the amount of travel in the rack.
Just a thought.
Larry

dlampe · #28 (**permalink**) 05-28-2010, 09:32 AM

I think the original style might work. It just didn't provide the direct cooling I was looking for. The brake duct tube is not forward enough to intersect the tire at max turn. I think it will work. This is how the 289 cars cooled their brakes. They didn't have the 427 brake duct openings on those cars and some didn't use the under car 289 system. I have a buddy in Tulsa that has an original 289 and that is where I got the idea to use this mounting system for brake cooling.

The fresh air system is the one that will likely rub but if I can get it turned sharp enough and run it high in the fender, it should be OK. The electric blowers will pull the air through even if the tubes have some sharp bends. I will have the whole system finished up early Saturday. We will know for sure then.

Tim, thanks for the links. These cars are so small and tight that everything is a compromise. I know a straight hose is better but I don't like the look of the hose hanging down to catch the best air. I probably don't even need the cooling. The brakes on the car are already overkill but I like the detail.

Ebustin, I made them out of 3 inch exhaust tubing. I welded a thick peice of flat stock to the side and bent it in to a tab. It was trial and error but it wasn't to hard.

PurpleVenom · #29 (**permalink**) 05-28-2010, 12:05 PM

I used a flat piece of stock aluminum and a PVC conduit bracket to hold my hose up high in the fender. The bracket is wide and made of plastic so it doesn't cut in to the tubing. Just a thought. Let me know if you want to see a pic.

dlampe · #30 (**permalink**) 05-30-2010, 09:05 PM

Thats a good idea Tim. I welded up a quick bracket to mount the blowers and a few zip ties to hold the hose in place. Everything clears the tires and seems like it is going to work great. Paul Proefrock built this system for me and it looks awesome, very original. He built the housing and furnished the pull knobs.

Here is the bracket and the blower installed.

Here it the finished product.

gsharapa · #31 (**permalink**) 05-31-2010, 08:28 AM

Turnout out awesome Dean. Paul's system looks really great! So how the motor coming?

PurpleVenom · #32 (**permalink**) 05-31-2010, 02:12 PM

Looks great Dean. In case the zip ties start cutting in to the tubing, take some of the split loom and put it around the zip tie. The split loom is round and large and will hold it without cutting it. Very nice setup there.

dlampe · #33 (**permalink**) 06-02-2010, 08:25 PM

The motor is on a bit of a delay. He is a good friend of mine and he is having some medical problems that the doctors have been unable to diagnos. He said he would get it done if I had to have it. I have been giving him some space to finish up some of the more important engines in his shop. I'm going to continue finish up some of the options before I make the call to him and ask for the engine.

I am going to start on the sway bar system. I plan to run a bar front and rear. The trick is to maintain the adjustability. Like the springs, the sway bars have a large efect on the wheel rate. The important thing is to always know where your set up is so you can make adjustaments that are repeatable. Here is a calulator to help establish where you are with your system.

http://www.circletrack.com/car_racin...tor/index.html

I am using a solid 32 inch bar on the front and a 34 inch .090 wall hollow bar on the rear. Here is a picture of the parts.

dlampe · #34 (**permalink**) 06-14-2010, 08:54 PM

I have finished the install of the sway bar system. It is super adjustable and easy to tune. The rear bar is probably going have about 3 inches of ground clearance. That is still great for the track and most roads but some of the roads around here are crowned in the middle. (I should have wiped the stuff off before I took the pictures!)

The hiem mounts next to the lower shock mount.

There are a few different ways to mount the hiem joint to the bar to adjust the bars rate.

You can see the bar housing lying just behind the radiator.

dlampe · #35 (**permalink**) 06-15-2010, 06:17 AM

The rear bar is held on with 4 bolts and is pretty easy to take on and off. Here is a shot of the sway bar tube.

Here's how it bolts to the frame.

The hiem joint mounts to a tab welded to the lower control arm.

Gregg(What's his name)? · #36 (**permalink**) 06-16-2010, 12:47 PM

Do you need to weld the tabs on the back of the lower control arm? I cant remember the rear end set up.

jdean · #37 (**permalink**) 06-16-2010, 01:40 PM

Dean,

Where did you get the heims, and what size are they?

Spuddyboy · #38 (**permalink**) 06-19-2010, 10:16 AM

Hi Dean,

Looks like a nice, simple, clean install.

I have a couple questions:

With the heims hanging below the control arms front and rear, do you anticipate any ground clearance issues?

The attachment point are out by the shock mount on the front. Do you anticipate any interference with the front wheels in a full lock turn?

For the rear bar, it looks like it might interefere with the frame rail upright. (This could just be the angle of the photo...)

Regards,

Evan
HM1103

dlampe · #39 (**permalink**) 06-19-2010, 04:27 PM

Those are all good questions. The rear arms clear the frame easily. I think it is just the camera angle. The front arms arm were bent to my specs by Speedway Engineering and they will clear as well. The Goodyear billboards are about as big of a tire as you could run but everything fits nicely. The rear mounting points on the lower arm can be welded on by Hurricane or you can do it yourself. The tabs are not on the first generation cars. The hiems are 1/2 inch and they came from Hurricane as did the sway bar tubes. The only draw back of this set up is the added weight. It is heavy duty but it is solid and should work great. The fact that the hiems hang down from the suspension is not a problem. I don't think they hang down very far. I need to get it down on the ground and take some pictures.

I have been working on the oil cooler. I started with the cooler set up from finishline. I added 3 inches to the front of the shroud and just started cutting and fitting. It turned out pretty nice.

I started with the cooler mounting first then moved on to seal up the opening.

dlampe · #40 (**permalink**) 06-21-2010, 05:45 PM

I finished up the wiring. I wanted to make the car as original as I could so it is a balance between the function and the form. Here is a picture of the wires that I need to have in the engine compartment.

This is the coil wires, fan blower wires, dizzy wires and assorted sending units.

I then added the old Lucas stuff I got from dlotz here on the form. (thanks for your help). I love the way this looks. It really gives the car a vintage feel.