Identification of a cobra kit - Page 2

LMH · #21 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 05:18 PM

Is the wheelbase 90"?
On an original car as well as many replicas, the shifter on a 427 is farther back then it would be normally. The handle is then bent forward.
T5's are used in cars like these. Maybe someone can chime in on an average driveshaft length.
Larry

thefordguy · #22 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 07:06 PM

I actually have not measured the wheel base but I think 90" is close, from the back of the front cross member to the yoke on the axle is 80"

BBQCYCLEWERKES · #23 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 07:43 PM

The driveshaft if I remember correctly is 6 inches or something like that. The T-5 trans will work fine with a SBF engine. The shifter will set alittle ahead of the seat back and is then bent forward. I hope this info helps. Keep up the good work. I hope your boss gives you a bonus if you're able to sort this jigsaw puzzle together as you will earn it.

thefordguy · #24 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 08:06 PM

ok, thanks. that's about where the shifter was coming through, I thought it was off but I guess I'll just have to get a bent forward shifter. And I get 15% profit when the car sells as a bonus. which is why I'm trying to talk him into an FE big block( well the profit and I really want to test drive a big block cobra) but the car came with a HO 5.0 and a t5 and my boss wants to put it together as cheap as possible.

The car is lacking many parts, what is a good source for parts for this thing, does anyone have any left overs they want to sell? it's also my job to locate all of the parts for this car.

LMH · #25 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 08:20 PM

Check Finish Line for a shift handle. They are an advertiser here.
Larry

thefordguy · #26 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 08:41 PM

ok, I will. some other things I need off the top of my head are: headers that will go ito the sidepipes I have, wheels, hood hinges, the radiator fill thing cuz the rad sits low,a bunch of misc stuff. also where does the roll bar attach to? I have never built one of these, and I'm starting from scratch so I need all the help I can get.

thefordguy · #27 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 08:45 PM

does what i've done so far look correct? as far as frame and steering/suspension. all input negative or positive will be appreciated, thanks

LMH · #28 (**permalink**) 11-20-2010, 11:39 PM

You can use an inline filler for the radiator. Lots of the Factory Five guys use them. I think you can also adapt a degas tank made for small blocks. It fits 351W and maybe 302 but I'm not sure about that one. Finish Line also sells that tank.
On the frame, what you've done looks pretty good to me but I would suggest and "X" brace in the frame. It'll make it more ridged and give you a trans mount. Here's a photo of my frame and you can see the brace in the center:

Larry

BBQCYCLEWERKES · #29 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 07:26 AM

Anyway you can modify the frame extension you built to mount the steering and sway bar above the frame rail extensions? Car will sit very low in the front and you would want something to help protect the susp if you hit a bump or something. Bottom out on the frame and not the suspension/steering. Also agree, you need to x brace and stiffen the frame our you will get flex. How are you going to use the donor motor? I have seen that the carb 302's done fairly nicely fetch a higher price then the stock fuel injected models and they look more authentic. Just an opinion though. Are you going to fab a fuel tank or mount a mustang II tank into your project? You will also need to build some bracing in the front and back to mount the body to for support, Also place a rubber type strip/isolation strip between the body and mounting framework to help aviod stress type cracking when mounting the body and when in use when it is finally completed. Keep asking questions as you go. There is no dumb questions when building one of these for the 1st time. Good luck and enjoy the experience.

thatbluetruck · #30 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 07:33 AM

I took a look at this package and thought it was not an E-M, no numbers were observed on the body. The body did not have a high arch below the windshield like the E-M. The shop was a fabrication shop and there were some incredible projects underway, since they were constructing custom frames on these projects I guessed the frame was a product of the shop with the same primer and style of construction. The project was too much for my slow brain. The E-M book is very good. But Hey, your in stock car land and a fab shop no less, you can do it!

christyair · #31 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 07:44 AM

If you already haven't done so, try typing the registration # into the national VIN database, as you may get a shred of info. If you are successful with the build, throw a tag on it that says "THEFORDGUY Cobra Kit Company. Good luck.

thefordguy · #32 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBQCYCLEWERKES

Anyway you can modify the frame extension you built to mount the steering and sway bar above the frame rail extensions? Car will sit very low in the front and you would want something to help protect the susp if you hit a bump or something. Bottom out on the frame and not the suspension/steering. Also agree, you need to x brace and stiffen the frame our you will get flex. How are you going to use the donor motor? I have seen that the carb 302's done fairly nicely fetch a higher price then the stock fuel injected models and they look more authentic. Just an opinion though. Are you going to fab a fuel tank or mount a mustang II tank into your project? You will also need to build some bracing in the front and back to mount the body to for support, Also place a rubber type strip/isolation strip between the body and mounting framework to help aviod stress type cracking when mounting the body and when in use when it is finally completed. Keep asking questions as you go. There is no dumb questions when building one of these for the 1st time. Good luck and enjoy the experience.

I have only been tack welding extensions onto the frame so that if I decide that they need to be different there easy to remove and I'll weld them all on solid once I figure out for sure where everything needs to be. good idea, I'll see if I can move the sway bar up any. I also planned on putting at least one brace between the frame rails but I don't know where the trans mount is going to be yet. as far as the engine goes I haven't decided whether I'm going to carb it or keep it fuel injected, I'm a fan of carbs but I would think that fuel injection would sell for more maybe? The fuel tank I'm using is an extra I had laying around for a 69 mustang, I had to trim it a little but after that it fit right in. as far as the bracing, I figured I would need to install that and I have a good spot for it in the rear and on the sides but I don't know where or how to mount the front of the car to the frame. but good tip on the rubber isolators. thanks again for all the help

thefordguy · #33 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thatbluetruck

The shop was a fabrication shop and there were some incredible projects underway, since they were constructing custom frames on these projects I guessed the frame was a product of the shop with the same primer and style of construction.

That would explain a few things, thanks. I wasn't the one who picked the car up and my boss who picked it up failed to mention that.

Excobrabuilder · #34 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 12:28 PM

Judging by your pictures it is not an E-M frame. I agree with the others that it looks home made. E-M frames were made of round tubing and ones with VIN's had 1" X 3" tags rivited onto them. The VIN usually began like EMSC427. They were not stamped on the frame as far as I know. I hate to tell you this, but your manual might be doing more harm than good. Best of luck to you!

thefordguy · #35 (**permalink**) 11-21-2010, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excobrabuilder

I hate to tell you this, but your manual might be doing more harm than good.

so far I've only used it for the pictures, and to get a general Idea of how these cobras go together. I'm sure I can still use the cut out templates for the body that are in it though. thanks

thefordguy · #36 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 08:51 PM

I went with kind of a k member instead of a x member on the trans mount but I think it will do the same job, any and all input is appreciated, thanks.

LMH · #37 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 09:12 PM

Looks about right to me!
How long will the driveshaft be? I think mine is about 11" or so. Don't know exactly but with a live axle, it get more critical with the angle during suspension travel.
I've switched my car to IRS.
Larry

thefordguy · #38 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 10:09 PM

well I haven't measured yet. but there's 80" between the front cross member and the pinion on the diff. and the engine trans measure 61" and there's 3 1/2 inches between the engine and front cross member so about 15 1/2 I think. is this going to be a problem?

LMH · #39 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 10:51 PM

I don't think so. The suspension travel isn't much and I think that's plenty for driveshaft length. Make sure the pinion angle ok and I don't see that as being a problem.
Will you be able to remove the engine and/or transmission w/o removing the body? Might be something to keep in mind as once steering, brakes, clutch, wiring and so on are installed, removing the body is a real pain.
Larry

thefordguy · #40 (**permalink**) 11-23-2010, 10:56 PM

I think so, defiantly trans. and if your careful probly the engine too. but I'm gunna put all that on before I install the body.