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Saw this picture of fkemmerer's very nice ERA753
Attachment 36648 Good idea! Never too old to learn smarter ways to avoid mistakes (in relation to my posts above ;) ) Cheers! Glen |
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So, no, I don't recall seeing any '60s FIA Cobras being fitted with eye level auxiliary brake lights.... but I do however need one to satisfy local road registration requirements.
As well as keeping officialdom happy, it may also prevent some dozey dummy rear-ending my car....so I'm happy at a number of levels to comply. Some pics... Rear view: Attachment 36669 Front view showing clamp and bracket: Attachment 36670 Another rear view: Attachment 36671 Cheers, Glen |
Glen,
Looks like it should work. Nice looking bracket. My only question is, how long is that extension cord that comes out of the boot to power the light? Will it be long enough for a spirited drive? ;) Cheers, Jim |
Just caught your build log! Wow, are you patient! I like the third eye to appease the powers that be. With the Prince Of Darkness lens, it look just like something someone would add to a COB car back in the 70s or 80s! I to am interested in the COB and COX cars. Hopefully I will end up with one of the replica Cobra's, next year. I am leaning towards a tribute to COX6057, better known as The Cobra In The Bedroom! http://barnfinds.com/cobra-bedroom/ One thing the article got wrong is, what does CO stand for, it is not CObra, instead it simply stand for Cobra Other, and X as always in AC Speak stands for eXport and B for Briton or RHD. The other is simply, export to Other then Los Angeles or New York State. Of course, that doesn't explain the CSX cars that went directly via air to FoMoCo in Michigan, or at least one air to Holman & Moody in North Carolina! But what the hay, when you were the Hurlock family you could do what you wanted! If patients is a virtue, well you have that more then covered! I will keep watching, best of luck!
Cheers, Dennis |
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No, no, I’m kidding. Here’s what the power cord is attached to… Attachment 36673. And yes, the need to be charging/conditioning the battery – or even have a battery fitted – is questionable when you consider what’s under the hood.... Attachment 36674 ie - nothing :LOL: We Australians like to anticipate and plan well ahead. Cheers! Glen |
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The light itself is period correct, so I'm happy enough with its necessary inclusion. Cheers, Glen |
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I'm at the stage of tidying up some of the less significant areas on the car.
The boot/trunk has some 'gaps' to fill.... Attachment 36744 Made up a couple of simple panels to make it a little neater looking.... edit: Attachment 36745 edit: This area of the trunk still isn't sealed ....but I really can't see how I can 100% seal it against dust and water ingress. No IP rating for me, huh :CRY: Still, can't see myself driving on unsealed roads or in the rain too often.… Cheers! Glen |
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I have some leather left over from the seats and dash, so I'm using some of it to cover part of the inner guards/fenders.
Most of the car's interior will stay as-is in bare aluminium alloy, but I'm thinking that covering the inner areas mentioned will tone it done just a little. Add a little visual "warmth" .... :3DSMILE: Here's the right hand side done, and left side with contact adhesive applied ready for the leather .... Attachment 36748 Cheers! Glen |
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Nice work with the trim panel, looks like the boot / trunk is pretty well sealed up. How much dirt / dust / water will find its way in is hard to say, probably not much at all but time will tell. If you really want to get the last bits closed off around the push rod and spring & damper shaft, here are a few ideas if you are so inclined: - Fabricate some more aluminum panels to box the whole area in. The downside is you cover up the suspension bits, which are works of art themselves. - Close the area off with some leather 'flaps'. Outline the area with self adhesive velcro then fabricate some leather 'flaps' or a 'bag' with Velcro sewn onto the edges to cover the whole area. No holes to drill and if it you don't like it, the self adhesive velcro will come off and the glue cleans up with some isopropyl alcohol. Once again, the downside is it hides the suspension. - Fabricate a gaiter / boot similar to what is used for a gear shift lever, from the top of the spring perch to the area where it exits the boot / trunk. A drawstring on the top and a split ring & screws on the bottom or use velcro. This would leave the rocker arms exposed. The pushrods are a bit simpler, some kind of a split leather or rubber washer / gasket. Best bet is to probably just continue making great progress in getting the car up & running and see if it's an issue down the road, so to speak. - Tim |
Glen,
Just had another thought ... If dirt / dust / water really is an issue, then box it in with aluminum panels on the sides, but use plexiglass on the front cover. It's all sealed in and relatively simple to build, but you can still see the suspension. - Tim |
Good suggestions Tim ....particularly the interesting plexiglass solution! You don't expect a 'display case' when opening the trunk/boot.
The engine rebuild is going slower than anticipated. We are waiting on the crank coming back from being linished; it shouldn't be taking more than three weeks though (and counting). At least we are accumulating engine bits as the days tick by so we can hit the ground running (that's the theory, but rarely happens that way). Cheers! Glen |
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A good Cobra friend (thanks Nigel) recommended a local upholsterer for good quality carpets. I made up some templates for both footwell floors and made a visit. Good recommendation, good price, good turnaround of a week was promised....so I was happy to place my order.
Next day, got a text saying that my carpets were ready to pick up. Don't see that sort of service all that often. Here's the pics.... Attachment 36791 Attachment 36792 As it's an FIA replica, I'm leaving most of the interior as bare aluminium alloy. Cheers! Glen |
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Viking Blue is very close to Princess BLue is it not? thx |
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Thanks. The colour turned out exactly as planned. Took some time to find the modern close equivalent to Viking blue.
Princess (Alice) Blue is lighter, and looks more grey. Here's a comparison picture that adequately shows the differences... Attachment 36873 Princess Blue is on the left; Viking Blue, centre Cheers, Glen |
Glen any time frame, with filling the BIG hole in the front ;) If I remember correctly, it was around Christmas last year, we started talking about it :) Really like the rear shock treatment, leave it to you buddy boy to add your special touches, even the Lucas third light looks period correct. Back in the "OLD DAYS" we FF/SR (Formula Fords/Sports Racers) mounted our Rain lights high on the roll bars, for the same reason. My new car is ready for this next year's outing, Moto-Lita wheel is installed, and found a pair of NOS Lucas PL-700 lights (Thanks again Greg @ My427Cobra) Cheers My Friend TommyRot.
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Hi Tom,
Filling the big hole…. yes, my man has been dragging his feet big time. It’s now in the hands of someone who is a little more enthusiastic and more has been achieved in a week than in the previous three months. Indication is that the engine should be ready in a couple of weeks. The car will then go onsite into its own little bay for the engine and trans. to be installed. I’ll report in again when there is more info. Merry Christmas all! Cheers, Glen |
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Greetings, and happy New Year to all here on CC!
So, I have a list to work through while the engine work is being done. All those little things that have been put off ('til now) because they are small and irritating (and not "glamorous") This is an important one, and I thought I had done it already ....but no, had not.... Earth wire from fuel filler to chassis: Attachment 36915 Cheers! Glen |
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