Ross ERA 427 SC build - Page 9

CCKW353 · #**162** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 04:11 PM

The final list of things to finish is shrinking. Worked out any issues I had with electronic gremlins, finished up most on the engine bay, had to pull thermostat to better position the weep hole, replaced my water temp gauge since it worked only once, have hooked up the carb linkage (just need to fine tune it), installed the tunnel, passenger seat and harness. So things are going good but slow since the weather is cold now in PA. I need to still install the puke tank and rubber lines related to it.

CCKW353 · #**163** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 04:18 PM

CCKW353 · #**164** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 04:19 PM

CCKW353 · #**165** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 04:22 PM

CCKW353 · #**166** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 04:26 PM

This is how it sits fresh of the jack stands with the drivetrain in it. I will be adjusting the final height it will sit when it hits the road.

xb-60 · #**167** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 04:51 PM

Excellent progress. What else is left to do?
Is the road registration process easy in Pennsylvania?

Cheers,
Glen

ERA 626 · #**168** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 07:08 PM

very nice build...

CCKW353 · #**169** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 08:28 PM

Hi Glen,

Pretty easy in PA and it is already titled, registered and insured. I need to put on the driver’s door and hood in terms of the body work. In terms of mechanics and tying up loose ends, just tlc stuff to under the hood. Once I finish my part, I am sending it over to our local auto mechanic to give it the once over. He is good guy well knowledged on the old stuff etc..

CCKW353 · #**170** (**permalink**) 01-28-2021, 08:30 PM

Thanks Mike

CCKW353 · #**171** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 09:49 AM

It has been some terrible weather and cold so working in the garage has been out on hold. Two things I am getting ready to do is figure out is an antifreeze leak either at the water pump or lower hose that connects to the pump. Once the car has been run and turned off there will eventually be a little puddle of antifreeze the next day. Also, changing out the hydraulic TO bearing for the clutch fork setup. I have all the parts via Peter P. Any words of wisdom on installing this clutch fork setup would be appreciated. I have TKO600 trans and QuickTime bell housing. So out come the seats and tunnel cover....

patrickt · #**172** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCKW353

Any words of wisdom on installing this clutch fork setup would be appreciated.

This shouldn't be too tough. Hopefully they trimmed your clutch fork corner otherwise it can scrape the reservoir cup over on the master cylinder. See my trim pic below. Also note in my second picture that some blocks, like my original iron block, need the aluminum spacer between the slave and the block. Look carefully and you will see it. You can see from the pics that I have a Lakewood BH. Quicktime BHs are a little different. This is a very straight forward install and the key to get it working right is having a nice straight alignment on the slave, the plunger, the fork, and it's path of travel. And if it ever starts leaking, fixing it is not a big deal.

DanEC · #**173** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 01:10 PM

I have a QuickTime bellhousing for a toploader and I’m not sure what is different other than that and my car is a little later serial number than Patrick’s - but my fork cleared OK so you may not have to trim it.

I would get some all-thread rod of the same size as the transmission bolts (size escapes me right now but I can check mine if you need me to) and cut 4 dowels about 8” long. Remove the transmission bolts and thread in the dowels and then you can just slide the transmission back on the rods very easily and block up the tail so you can then remove the HTOB and install the new fork and TO bearing. If you don’t disturb the pressure plate, the transmission will slide back in place on the dowels just as easily as closing the bolt on a rifle. You will need to put some padding and blocking under the oil pan to raise the back of the engine by Jack and support it and remove the transmission mount so the trans will clear the frame when slid back. Open the hood or block it up slightly so the air cleaner doesn’t come in contact with it. Of course the driveshaft needs to come out.

CCKW353 · #**174** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 02:19 PM

Thanks for the photos and info Patrick.

Thanks Dan, I followed your post on that hint before so I am ready this time. Ha.

Below is the care package Peter sent me for what is needed, is there anything that looks like it is missing.

patrickt · #**175** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 02:28 PM

The fork is trimmed, but I do not see the aluminum spacer that would go between the block and the slave cylinder bracket to get a perfect alignment on certain blocks.

patrickt · #**176** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 02:40 PM

So long as you know there's a spacer available, should you need it, that will do for now. Check around page 36 of the manual.

CCKW353 · #**177** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 02:48 PM

I will check, thanks. Not sure if it is needed for a QuickTime Bellhousing but will start combing the manual and posts on this board.

DanEC · #**178** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 05:28 PM

The spacer is all I note missing also. Be sure to position the bleeder screw straight up on the slave so it will bleed all air out. Amazing how simple things can absentmindedly mess you up.

CCKW353 · #**179** (**permalink**) 02-20-2021, 05:44 PM

Thanks, good point. Ha. I read your post on how you were tortured a little during your assembly.

CCKW353 · #**180** (**permalink**) 02-21-2021, 06:12 PM

Seats and tunnel pulled for the swap, figured why not do it today. A fun Sunday.