Superformance / FFR

daves · #1 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 01:37 PM

I am definitely the newbie here. I want to get a cobra but need to get a little educated first. A few questions I have:
What do all the numbers stand for? e.g. 3184, 1266, etc.
Also, I understand the process for superformance and that of FFR, I think?? It also looks like superformance cars are 2 times $ of an FFR. I want to buy a completed red or blue one. I do not have any interested in showing the car or proving to anyone that it is the best on one the road. I simply just want to cruise it around on Sundays. Anything wrong with getting a FFR in my case? Also, I heard insurance is a real pain. Any advise there? Does it depend on horsepower? Speaking of which, what are the pros and cons of a small block vs. a big block in these cars?

Your feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

computerworks · #2 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 01:58 PM

Hello Dave

Welcome to the madness.

(you might want to fill in some info in your profile... that could attract some members local to you and you could get some in-person help.)

I'm guessing that the numbers you are curious about are the serial numbers of specific cars... many brands are very serial-number oriented... FFR3184 and SPF 1266 are both valid car numbers.

SPF's are sold new as completed, factory-built and painted rollers.. with, usually, drivetrains professionally installed.

FFR's are sold only as basic kits.

That would explain the approx 2x difference in price at resale.

luke-44 · #3 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 02:04 PM

You probably need to spend a lot more time in the research phase. Check the search funtion on this site - you will be amazed how many times this subject has been covered in detail - one manufacturer vs another - example - SPF vs ERA, or Factory Five vs B&B etc, etc, etc. Also, check the manufacturers sites - there are probably +- 15 decent manufacturers of replicas you should fully acquaint yourself with before you will really know what you want...

Small block vs. big block - besides the basic differences in hp, expect to spend many more $$$ to do a bb - everything costs a LOT more on a bb. Within the world of bb's, there is also a hierachy of original side oilers, 428's, 429's, 460's, 390's, etc, etc...spending $25k on a bb motor alone is not unusual....

I don't think you get an SPF for 2X of an FFR - then again, some folks have built FFR's with price tags well into the mid 30's or even high 40's - don't get confused between price of admission numbers, and finished car numbers - do the research carefully.

Insurance is available through specialty insurers - not much of a hassle if you know where to go.

Good luck, luke-44

Randy Rosenberg · #4 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 04:14 PM

Hey Dave,

Welcome...

Your location says Livermore, CA. If this is no typo, then you are very close to our BACC (Bay Area Cobra Club).

We meet in Dublin every Saturday for breakfast at 7:30 at Athens Burgers. I mention this, 'cause at your stage of research, my advice is to go see some Cobras first hand and talk with their owners. This morning, for example, we had 25+ Cobras at breakfast from many different manufactorers.

Hope this helps...

Have Fun,
Randy R...

casaleenie · #5 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 04:18 PM

daves,
Definitely got some work ahead of you in a selection..
Check the previously owned Cobras... More bang for your buck.
Never saw a Cobra I didn't like....
Look at the Cobras for sale on this forum and also Cobracountry...

daves · #6 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 05:46 PM

Thanks for everyones feedback.

I actually was at Athens this morning at 7:30 with my wife.
I was getting the impression that people were really into SPF's (i guess they would be since it is more original) and just wanted to post on here to see if there were any major showstoppers with repect to FFR's since personally I don't have 50K+ to drop down on an SPF version. I can manage around 25K, so I wanted to get a feel from the people on this site whether or not it was "cool"

to get an FFR version. For my situation and interests, its seems a red or blue FFR with a small block in it would give me enough for a grin from ear to ear. I am 28 so perhaps an SPF version would be more suitable later down the road.

Thanks again.
Dave

ddimick · #7 (**permalink**) 07-05-2003, 06:05 PM

You can pick up a well-built FFR within your budget, or build it yourself also within your budget (fairly nice). Decide if you want to build it yourself or not. Heck, you could even get an entry-level pro-built FFR for $25k. There are some newcomers that are worth looking at too, like Renegade, Backdraft, Hunter, Shell Valley, etc. I chose FFR for myself, but I would give both Renegade and Backdraft good hard looks now, too. I don't mean to imply I'm at all unhappy with my FFR, I absolutely love it, but those other guys seem to offer pretty good bang for the buck for rollers.

Excaliber · #8 (**permalink**) 07-06-2003, 01:50 AM

You know those "new/old" guys at Shamrock look kind of interesting also. Mid 20's for a South African "roller" with IRS Jag suspension. They might be onto something there! I figure mid 30's when your done with the engine and the extras.

Course you could just cut to the chase and buy my DV built Classic Roadster.

Ernie

bwana50 · #9 (**permalink**) 07-06-2003, 06:17 AM

Sounds like an FFR would work for you, but keep researching. Show up at a Cobra gathering and check out the different cars. It's true that "you get what you pay for" - SPFs are nice cars, but cost more because they're nearly complete when you get 'em. FFRs can be built for much less, but I'd bet if you put a dollar value on your labor, the prices would be comparable. So one of the primary questions you should ask yourself is, "how much work do I want to put into it?" That said, I'm very pleased with my FFR; building it was half (well, maybe 1/3) the fun.

Ah, just re-read your post and saw you're looking for a completed car. So, I'll offer this: check carefully before you buy. FFRs can be more variable in quality of build than SPFs - the engineering is solid, and they all roll out of the factory the same, but different builders with different skills and priorities throw a bit of uncertainty into the mix. Not to worry you - I haven't seen a poorly built one yet - but everybody does things just a little differently.

daves · #10 (**permalink**) 07-06-2003, 10:26 AM

Good advice.

Thank you.

Any key things to look for on the car that show it was built right.

Kind of like how there are things to look for on a everdday car that will tell you whether it has 36000 or 136000 e.g. brake pedal wear, seat wear, etc.

Can there be things to check on an FFR that show it was built well?

Hope that made sense.

Dave