Brand New* SPF For Sale, Just Finished

[HotRodJoe]

Description:

Brand NEW* Superformance Cobra. Never titled. Just completed powertrain and drivetrain installation 4/9/04. Only driven enough to tune the engine and have a 4 wheel alignment (under 50 miles).




See more pics in my gallery. Since pics were taken, braided hoses were hooked up to oil cooler (although not functional) and wiring coming along fuel line was better organized.

Car is Black with following options:

Silver Ceramic Coated Exhaust
Roadster Bumpers (Front & Rear)
Glove Box
Sunvisor Assembly
295/50 Rear Tires – BF Goodrich T/As
Clear Stone Guards
Wood Steering Wheel
Oil Cooler
Polished Stainless Roll Bar
New Style Emergency Brake
White Racing Stripes
Cobra Floormats from Tony Branda
Soft Top, Curtains, and Tonneau cover (fitted at factory but never installed since then)

Powertrain:

NOS 428 block (have original Ford box that it came in)
Balanced rotating assembly
428CJ crank and rods (std – std) from low mileage T-bird
Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads w/ Stage I port job
Comp Cams 282S solid lifter cam
Smith Bros. Pushrods
Erson Roller Rockers
Precision Pumps blueprinted oil pump
Aviaid oil pan
ARP fasteners throughout
Holley 750 cfm vacuum secondaries, electric choke
Chrome Alternator
Cobra 427 valve covers
Cobra Oval air cleaner
MSD Distributor
Polished stainless expansion tank
March pulleys
OEM Starter
Carter Electric Fuel Pump
Taylor 8mm Spark Plug Wires
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Edelbrock aluminum water pump
MSD 6AL box with rev limiter

Drivetrain is a Tremec TKO 5-speed manual:

Tremec TKO 5 speed tranny
GM Synchromesh fluid
Shifter looks like old 4-speed Toploader
McLeod Aluminum Flywheel
Lakewood Blowproof bellhousing

The following parts were powdercoated Mirror Silver with a Clear Coat (very durable, easy to clean and great looking):

Intake
Valve covers
Air Cleaner
Bellhousing
Waterpump
Oil Pan
Timing Cover

This is a beautiful car! Engine is awesome: very streetable yet has nice lopey idle. I’m only listing this car for sale because I love finishing them. If this one sells, I’ll get another one and finish it. If it doesn’t, I’ll enjoy it myself. Asking price is set just high enough to compensate for some of my labor.

Price: $53,000 obo

Might consider partial trade of Kirkham roller/project - that's what I want to do next.

Call me for more info: 765-922-4636.
Email: nosyjoe@hotmail.com

Terms of Sale

Buyer will receive a Manufacturer’s Statement of Origin from Dynamic Motorsports (where I bought rolling chassis) and a Bill of Sale from me. This way buyer is able to title and license vehicle however way is easiest in their state of residence. Balance to be paid via wire transfer before car is delivered or picked up.

*There is no warranty implied or offered. In other words, this car would be considered “used” legally, as I am not a dealership nor am I affiliated with one. Car is now 200+ car numbers behind rollers at dealerships because I took my time finishing it. Only thing I know of that it didn't have that new ones do was pinion mounted e-brake and Dynamic put one on for me. Some parts (long block and valvetrain) of the engine were slightly used by thundercat, but I consider this an advantage because I know the engine is a good one and the assembly was done right.

[HotRodJoe]

Price is $53K to be consistent with Cobra Country listing.

- Joe

[HotRodJoe]

Came close to reserve on eBay, but didn't get there. Reserve was $52K. I'll offer car for a few more days at that price. If I don't get that, I'll drive it!!!

Joe

[HotRodJoe]

I'll bring this to the top as I see some want ads for cobras out there...

Joe

p.s. After seeing my car, Dynamic Motorsports has added me to their installer list! I think I may be the only one in Indiana, but I'm not sure...

[Hoosier]

Just curious, where in Indiana are you located?

[HotRodJoe]

Hi Hoosier,

I'm near Marion. Thanks for the interest!

Joe

[RedBarchetta]

Joe, beautiful car and a clean install!

Curious, my #747 could really use the new style emergency brake upgrade. What parts were involved and how much was the cost? Is this something a decent home mechanic like myself could handle with regular tools?

Thanks!

-Deano

[Shawn C]

Deano,
I just purchased the e-brake upgrade for my car (#956). The cost was $425. Call Mark Dove and he will help you out.
There is a fitment problem though. The new brake disc bolts in between the the driveshaft and the differential, the disk actually hits the body and wont be able to be bolted in place. I called Mark and he said that you need to cut the floorpan and reglass that area. I didn't want to deal with any 'glass work so I chucked the disc up in a lathe and shaved of 3/16". It fits fine now and the pads are still completely on the disk, I can even go a little more if I need to. You also need to cut the cabble bracket off of the frame, I have the trans and diff out off the car right now for the rest of the upgrades so it is a lot easier, I can't imagine trying to cut the bracket withe tranny in the car. It's also easier if you remove the trans tunnel, about a half dozen screws hidden under the carpet. E mail me if you have any questions.
Ciao,
Shawn C

[Shawn C]

Deano,
I just purchased the e-brake upgrade for my car (#956). The cost was $425. Call Mark Dove and he will help you out.
There is a fitment problem though. The new brake disc bolts in between the the driveshaft and the differential, the disk actually hits the body and wont be able to be bolted in place. I called Mark and he said that you need to cut the floorpan and reglass that area. I didn't want to deal with any 'glass work so I chucked the disc up in a lathe and shaved of 3/16". It fits fine now and the pads are still completely on the disk, I can even go a little more if I need to. You also need to cut the cabble bracket off of the frame, I have the trans and diff out off the car right now for the rest of the upgrades so it is a lot easier, I can't imagine trying to cut the bracket withe tranny in the car. It's also easier if you remove the trans tunnel, about a half dozen screws hidden under the carpet. E mail me or call me at (808)479-8508 if you have any questions.
Ciao,
Shawn C

[HotRodJoe]

Deano,

Thanks for the encouragement! As far as the e-brake goes, I don't have much to add to what Shawn C said other than it is a great improvement over the old style (it actually works!). Mine works great. I've heard some complaints about them rattling, but I think that can be eliminated with proper adjustment.

Joe

[Lowell W]

Just a note for anyone else considering the E-brake upgrade:

I had no trouble cutting the bracket off with a Sawzall with the tranny and tunnel in place. My car had enough room in the tunnel for the disc, so perhaps the newer cars have larger tunnels. I did have to move the battery cable and the fuel line a little bit; seems to me I drilled out a pop-rivet or two, raised or lowered the lines and re-riveted them. I do notice a rattle, now that you mention it, when I go over some bumps, so maybe that's where it's coming from. Not sure whether it was there prior to the E-brake installation or not. Thanks for the tip. The new E-brake certainly is an improvement over the old one.

If you ever think you might want to work on the driveline from the top someday, the sooner you go through the hassle of taking the tunnel out for the first time, the more you'll be able to enjoy the fruits of your labor. It's not too bad to get out (four bolts for the seats, one for the E-brake assembly and 12 or so screws for the tunnel), but it's an absolute b!tch to clean all that black goo off. Wear gloves!! Work outside!! Don't breathe!! I used a heat gun to soften the mastic and scraped it as best I could, then cleaned and cleaned and cleaned with 3M Adhesive Remover. This stuff is vile! Both of 'em, actually; the black mastic and the adhesive remover. When I had everything as clean as possible, I applied some aluminum duct-sealing tape to the bottom edge of the inside of the tunnel to keep any remaining goo from sticking back to the body, then screwed everything back together. I recently drove the car for hours in a pouring rain and, if not having the mastic in place to seal the tunnel made any difference in the amount of water inside the car, you sure couldn't prove it by me!

Joe,

Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread-at least I'm helping to keep it in circulation! It's a beautiful car and I hope this turns out however makes you happy.The FE's look and sound so cool! Perhaps we'll meet at some event if you decide to keep and enjoy your car rather than sell it.

Lowell

[HotRodJoe]

Lowell,

No apologies needed, you helped keep my ad near the top for a couple of days!

Joe

[Lowell W]

Joe,

Hey, no problem. Somebody's sure going to enjoy that car!



Lowell

[RedBarchetta]

Shawn and Lowell,

Thanks for the inputs and tips! Maybe I'll end up buying a grappling hook and 50 ft of chain instead!

-Deano

[Lowell W]

Deano,

Sorry, Dude, but you're out of luck. The grappling hook frame lug came out starting with car #748 and it's not retro-fittable.

You're welcome!

Lowell

[Shawn C]

what I had to do to the E-Brake lever. At some point I pulled to hard on the lever trying to get the original e-brake to work and I managed to bend the lever prety good (or bad, depending on how you look at it). The lever design is actually not very strong. I TIG welded a couple of gusset plates on the sides where the cut tubing meets the 1/8" flat plate pieces at the bottom. If you have had the lever out and looked at it you know where I'm talking about. Has anyone else had this problem? I didn't pull on it that hard, heck I aint got enough fingers left on that hand to pull hard!
Ciao,
Shawn C

[Lowell W]

Shawn,

That seems to be a common problem, as there's a similar fix listed in the SCOF tech articles. I think they welded in a piece of pipe for reinforcement.

Lowell

[HotRodJoe]

All,

I received a healthy deposit on this car, so I will go ahead and mark it "SOLD" unless you hear from me otherwise.

Joe