Project Contemporary UK

[kdavies3]

Hi Gang, I've pushed the start button on my new CCX build.
Probably the only one in construction still in the UK I would think.
Anyway I'm going to need help from you guys, lots of help.

Project Contemporary

I'm documenting the build with pictures on the UK forum if you want a read please follow the above link.

Current problems are front uprights to top and bottom 'A' arms, I have Jaguar XJ uprights but I can't see how they connect to the arms I have, along with front sway bar.
This is a late model CCX so I have no build manual, so all help gladly received.

The other issue is that here in the UK we have a test known IVA (individual vehicle approval) which won't allow many things that would have been on original spec Cobras, even down to switches etc.
So I will have to re-engineer a few things post test.

[streetrod1927]

What year do you think it was originally purchased? I have an '89 build, CCX3-3147.

[cobrarkc]

Unless we see a picture it is hard to tell but you may have to use XKE upright instead of XJ6 ones.

[SunDude]

I suggest you get in touch with Nick (mickmate), as he seems to be the resident guru for all things Contemporary Classic. Send him a PM.

[mickmate]

Hey Kevin, I looked over your pics. It looks as though you have specifically made a-arms for the front. I have seen other CCX coil over cars where the uppers were modified for coil over and lowers were stock XKE. You have stock Jag geometry from the look of things which works well. It looks like you're missing a ball joint bushing in one of your uprights? How does the taper match up to your ball joints? It may need reaming to match. Those screw in Chrysler type ball joints are the standard for race cars control arms. Good hardware. The later uprights are vented and a better braking set up with a more standard caliper bolt spacing for even more upgrades. They also have a shorter and fatter (translation stiffer) spindle.

[kdavies3]

Originally Posted by streetrod1927

What year do you think it was originally purchased? I have an '89 build, CCX3-3147.

My car or at least the body says CCX 3-4028 I believe it was purchased here in the UK in 1999. via Jim Blackburn (RIP) of American Speed Specialities also RIP.

[kdavies3]

Originally Posted by cobrarkc

Unless we see a picture it is hard to tell but you may have to use XKE upright instead of XJ6 ones.

Take a look at the UK thread for all the pictures, unfortunately the US site has more size restrictions on pictures so I'd have to shrink them down.
The link for the UK thread is in the first post.

[kdavies3]

[quote=mickmate;1159420]Hey Kevin, I looked over your pics. It looks as though you have specifically made a-arms for the front. I have seen other CCX coil over cars where the uppers were modified for coil over and lowers were stock XKE. You have stock Jag geometry from the look of things which works well. It looks like you're missing a ball joint bushing in one of your uprights? How does the taper match up to your ball joints? It may need reaming to match. Those screw in Chrysler type ball joints are the standard for race cars control arms. Good hardware. The later uprights are vented and a better braking set up with a more standard caliper bolt spacing for even more upgrades. They also have a shorter and fatter (translation stiffer) spindle.[/QUOTE
Thanks Nick,
Those are XJS uprights the top taper is much larger than the one on the upper A-arm.
As you say one of the uprights is missing its insert.
Have you seen a sway bar like mine before?

[mickmate]

I think you'll find the screw in ball joints are available in different sizes. I think this is the smaller one 910 34323 - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop and this is the larger one you'll need Speedway 1960-66 Chrysler Screw-In Lower Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
You may need to do some measuring to figure the tapers out, we can help with the math if need be.
I have seen tubular swaybars before. You could check your rates here Sway Bar Rate Chart I would drill and tap a series of (3/8-24) holes in the end of the arms to make them adjustable and simply tie them to the lower arms by the shock mount with heim jointed radius rods. The old rubber bushed ones come apart 45 yrs later.

[kdavies3]

Thanks Nick those links are very useful.