Looking for a CCX

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by John McMahon

I would suggest that you go through a visual inspection of every nook and cranny and wrench on every nut and bolt, motor mounts, suspension, interior, dash....you name it..... to ensure all is secure. I do that on all cars that I buy and you'd be surprised at what you'll find loose or missing. Congrats!

Visual is not enough. this car will be tracked and will also be run at 110 mph for over an hour nonstop in the upcoming Big Bend Open Road Race. Every nut is being removed and re-torqued, it's getting several new parts, and all systems will be checked for endurance fitness. It's also getting an engine swap, so the proctology exam will be thorough.

[Ron61]

That is what you should do especially on a car that you just got and haven't been through. I used to go over mine top and bottom after every track run and then at least once a week when just driving it. It is amazing at the nuts and bolts that can be loosened by hard driving.

Ron

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

... the proctology exam will be thorough.

Does a CCX have a driveshaft safety hoop? I think that's one of the most important safety considerations in these cars. I presume you're just going to swap out your u-joints for new Spicers. If you have the engine and trans out of the car it's just easier to put new ones in than it is to figure out whether your old mystery joints are good enough.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Does a CCX have a driveshaft safety hoop? I think that's one of the most important safety considerations in these cars. I presume you're just going to swap out your u-joints for new Spicers. If you have the engine and trans out of the car it's just easier to put new ones in than it is to figure out whether your old mystery joints are good enough.

This car has a safety loop. Local driveline company will check and service shafts as needed.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

This car has a safety loop. Local driveline company will check and service shafts as needed.

You know, ERA does something interesting with their u-joint specifications. The front u-joint is a Spicer 1330 unit (bigger) and the rear u-joint is a 1310 unit (smaller). The theory is that if something goes bad, and a u-joint has to go, then you want it to be the rear joint because throwing the clutch in will essentially disconnect the front of the shaft so that the pesky driveshaft thrashing against the safety hoop will stop while you coast to a halt. This has been the subject of debate from time to time.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by Ron61

That is what you should do especially on a car that you just got and haven't been through. I used to go over mine top and bottom after every track run and then at least once a week when just driving it. It is amazing at the nuts and bolts that can be loosened by hard driving.

Ron

Agree with Ron. I actually use a paint pen and mark all the critical nuts and bolts once they are tightened correctly. Then, easy to survey them and know right away if something has loosened or moved.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Agree with Ron. I actually use a paint pen and mark all the critical nuts and bolts once they are tightened correctly. Then, easy to survey them and know right away if something has loosened or moved.

You need to upgrade to Torque Seal. The Joy of Torque Seal