Contemporary FE Motor Mount Orientation Question

cobrajam · #1 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 08:34 AM

When using the Contemporary recommended 3-4 bolt FE motor mounts, should the stud that fastens to the frame be in the center of the block, or should they be flipped side to side so that the studs are moved forward about 2" and centers on about the 2nd exhaust port back? Hoping to drop motor/trans assembly onto frame within a couple of weeks, and even though it is easy to change on the hoist, it is even easier to get oriented right first.

mickmate · #2 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 10:03 AM

Are you using the 2141 motor mounts. They have an L shape to them and the leg of the L should point to the back I believe.

Shelboss · #3 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 10:03 AM

I think the stud is forward, I will check tonight. See if you can orient the mounts based on this photo of mine:
Early Contemporary front flare - Club Cobra Photo Gallery

cobrajam · #4 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 11:28 AM

Shelboss, looking at your pic, I noticed a couple of interesting things. First, your frame mount is turned towards the front, whereas mine is turned 'backwards' i.e. the stud from the rubber mount is bolted on the flat 1/4" plate on the backside of the 2"x2" post, otherwise it looks the same. I guess the next best way would be to measure from the pinion flange to the back of the block(?) I kind of roughly measured it out, and if I attach mounts w/ studs forward, the T-5 tranny mount falls somewhere into the round part of the transmission crossmember, missing the flat mounting extention. Flipping the mounts around will move the assembly forward a couple of inches, thus hitting the tranny mounting plate. And then keep my fingers crossed that the Midstates sidepipes and headers fall where they should. It seems the Contemporay Assembly Manual floating around only covers the earlier Contemporarys. Two, it looks like your outriggers are cut out for the long radius rod for the rear suspension. Three, your garage looks like mine, too many parts, not enough space. I built a rolling 'dolly' for my body, so I could roll it out and work on the chassis. Hard to build one of these in a 1.5 car garage w/ 2 motors on stands, transmission laying around, rear suspension parts scattered and all of the other necessary pieces. Thanks.

Shelboss · #5 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 11:59 AM

I have another shot of the transmission mount modified for the Tremec TKO. I had to cut about 1.5" off the forward section of the mount and relocate the holes back close to the tube. That allowed it to clear the 5th gear buldge that the toploader doesn't have. Let me know if you need a dimension to the pinion. Hopefully someone with a later model kit can tell us what changed over time!
Yes the slots for the radius rods are still there, I am going to fill in part of it and do a half round for under the car exhaust pipe to tuck into. I built the dolly for the frame rather than the body, I move the motorcycles out and slide the frame out the side when I am working on it :-). If your garage is too big, that's money you could have put into the cars!

cobrajam · #6 (**permalink**) 02-11-2008, 08:09 PM

Contemporary Manual list mounts as TRW 8 2240 and 2241. As points of reference, the GForce T-5 I am using is 24" overall, 14.5" from bellhousing mounting face to transmission mount, and 19.75" from bellhousing mating surface to shifter stub.