Radius Rods for Rear end

LeonardU · #1 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 11:10 AM

I have an early Contemporary #3050 and I would appreciate any help with installing radius rods from the differential to the frame of the car. I understand they are almost as good as installing a Watts Link. Can someone help with photo's, directions and parts list with measurements and size of required parts.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Len Ulfelder

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 11:26 AM

...but seeing how my rods are fastened to the assembly that holds the rear might give you some ideas.

Rick 427 Cobra · #3 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 02:23 PM

Hey Leonard, been missing you at breakfast.
Try Kurt Hamilton 818 787-9695 or 818 943-2323(cell). He is a long time Jag rear end specialist and was involved with aftermarket Contemporary stuff. He is in Van nuys.

427 S/O · #4 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 02:43 PM

I like mine much better than watts on a jag rear....check pics..........

Rick 427 Cobra · #5 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 05:32 PM

I think Len is asking about rods that attach at the outer hubs and head to the very rear of the car.

mickmate · #6 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 08:25 PM

Hi Len, so if you have an early CCX it has the mount for the radius rods on the frame right? I believe they weren't used because of binding but with poly bushings on the control arms it may be feasible to hook it up. Watts doesn't bind if set up correctly, radius rods swing through an arc so longer is better.

Shelboss · #7 (**permalink**) 08-10-2008, 06:54 PM

Radius rods do not work on the early Contemporary's. I got this straight from Peter Bayer and confirmed what he said with some quick calculations. Jag OEM and ERA radius rods work because they mount the IRS in a rubber isolated cage that allows it to move with the raduis of the rod. This is typically about +/- .060" if my memory serves correctly. Contemporary hard mounts the center section to the frame and the lower A-arms are rigid front-to-rear. You will stress the lower A-arm mounts more than going without the radius rods!

767Jockey · #8 (**permalink**) 08-10-2008, 08:21 PM

I have a very early Contemporary with the radius rod mounts on the frame. I have been told by numerous educated sources that the setup just doesn't work. Given that it is cheaper and easier than a Watts link, I would think that Contemporary would have stayed with it if it had worked - they ditched it early in the program. That probably says all you need to know.

CHANMADD · #9 (**permalink**) 08-10-2008, 09:46 PM

I have had these on my car for a long time.My diff is solid mounted to the frame and without these rods I would get a lot of wheel shudder,the jag lower arm flexes quite a bit.these work great and easy to install. The install is maybe not the neatest but it was something i just tried and then they have been there ever since.Check my pics..
John

1985 CCX · #10 (**permalink**) 08-12-2008, 11:02 AM

I run w/o radius bar all together. If you pay attention to bushing lubrication and wear it holds up nicely. I have never had an issue with skipping, failure, or wheel misalignment.

It is one tuff unit!

CHANMADD · #11 (**permalink**) 08-12-2008, 12:45 PM

If you are running without ...do yourself a favour and stand next to the rear wheels and let someone else do a "burnout". That rear wheel bounces back and forwards like you won't believe..that is if you are using jag lower arms.Maybe a stiffer arm, but then all that force is going to those little brackets on the side of the diff....Just my 0.02c

Shelboss · #12 (**permalink**) 08-12-2008, 08:09 PM

Most of the deflection you are looking at from the side is the upper axles torquing about the lower arm. Your radius rods do not solve this problem, they do cancel some of the deflection but at the expense of the lower bracket unless your bushings have some compliance to them. A 38" long radius rod will deflect .12" when traveling 3" from center. Neither set-up is good, only a watts linkage takes the stress off the lower bracket.