New JBL Cobra Daytona Coupe Street Version Build

[Clois Harlan]

I spent a good deal of time this weekend trying to figure out how I was going to install my Vintage AC/Heater behind my dash. My first thought was to modify my dash so I made a template. didn't like that. I spent hours looking at the dash and weighing my options. My wife walked into my shop once and told that if she didnt' know better she would think I was on some kind of drugs the way I was staring at the coupe.

I spoke to Vintage Air this morning and inquired about mounting my unit at a 45 degree angle which they seem to think would work just fine as long as I can use my drain plug as it was intended, I can. That way I won't need to modify my dash other than pulling it out from the firewall about 2 inches.

Waiting on parts for some of the other things but as soon as I get my AC mounted I will take some pictures and post them. It seems as though I spend a lot more time waiting on things than it takes to install them.

[Clois Harlan]

I got a chance to work on a few things while I wait on others. Last night I started cuttting my panels for my Plenum until my Plasma cutter tip went bad. Here are a few of the panels I made last night the big square one is for the bottom of my radiator (I ha d to cut out a relief for my lower radiator)

[Clois Harlan]

As you can see I put a 1.5" deflector on the bottom of my plenum (not sure it will remain with the build but for now it has been installed). I also was able to cut out and bend my driver side plenum panel which turned out pretty nice. All these panels need to be deburred and finished. For now I am just making them fit.

[Clois Harlan]

I also spent a little time working on my AC install which I think will work: Managed to get it test fit and a bracket made.

[Clois Harlan]

This photo is a little out of order but it shows the lower plenum taped to the area beneath my radiator. Of course it will be permanently fastened once I have finished detailing the panel. Like I said the little inch and a half deflector may not make the final build but I made it for a little more rigidity since my panels are .040 alum and the deflector is .060.

[lovehamr]

Looking great Cois!

[vector1]

Looks good Clois. It may not look like it now, but you may want to make those panels removable.

Re the air bleed at the top of the radiator, I routed that to the top of my header tank with a restrictor using a small hole, prob in the order of .040-.060, otherwise a lot of coolant will pass through this, and you really only want air. Then out of the bottom of the header tank is another unrestricted line that goes to the suction side of the system for fill, the header tank being the highest point of the system. Of course you may be using it for something else....

[Clois Harlan]

The header tank you are talking about is what I believe is called a degas tank from which the radiator and entire cooling system is filled. Looking at having one made because of lack of space of the traditional 2013-2016 Mustang GT factory OE. I have a call into Moroso to see if they have something with a vented screw on cap that measures 5" deep x 10" wide x 5" tall with a 11/16" main drain that goes into the fill tube at the thermostat and two 1/4" bleed tubes that will go to the Radiator and a bypass at the Thermostat.

If anyone has any experience with something like this please contact me as making a one off aluminium tank is turning out to be quite expensive..

Clois

[Richard Hudgins]

Clois,

You might wish to look at the Howe Surge tanks. (They are reference builder of the radiators for the comp chassis.) See. https://www.howeracing.com/p-7460-surge-tanks.aspx

[Clois Harlan]

Thanks Richard, I just ordered one and the cost is very reasonable for a one off! Under $100.

[Clois Harlan]

Over the weekend and the last couple of evening I have finished my plenum side and bottom panels and installed my AC Condensor (see picture). I will have to wait on the top of the plenum until I get my nose installed.

Additionally, I spoke to Vintage Air again and was told I could not install my evaporator at more than a 5 degree angle because it would lead to my system freezing up. With that news I had to re-think my position of my AC under the dash unit which left me one option and that was to cut out the top of my passenger footbox and install the unit longitudal with my vents facing the driver. See my pictures of the rough cut out footbox which I intend to build a panel for my AC unit to rest on (secured of course with L Brackets) and then a hood that extends into my engine bay.

Since I will be changing my footbox on the passenger side I intend to make the hood removable so if in the future me or someone else can have easy access to the heater core and AC connections. That part of the build probably will not be completed until next week given my work schedule etc.

[Clois Harlan]

Thank goodness for a plasma cutter, SawsAll and a cutoff wheel. Here are a couple of the rough cut footbox pics:

[Clois Harlan]

Lately it seems like I take one step forward and two steps backward. At any rate I solved my dash fitting problem. Also, I am going to try and modify my dash so I have an alignment pin (3/4" box tubing) afixed to the lower edge of my dash that will fit inside a 1" box tubing receiver that I will weld to one of my dash braces. My thinking is that this will eliminate an unsightly end bracket and prevent the dash from rolling during installation. This will also allow for easy install by one person (wife is getting tired of me getting her to hold this end or that)

[Clois Harlan]

Pictures are not very exciting but I finally finished my AC HTR box that extends into my engine bay. The first pic is after I cut the opening for the mods and installed the panel the AC Unit will be secured to. The others are the finished panel with accomodation for the Coyote control unit.

[Clois Harlan]

The plumbing starts tonight after I pick up a 94-97 Explorer heater control unit.

[Clois Harlan]

The heater control unit went smoothly but now I am dealing with the #10 130 degree AC fittings from the evaporator to the compressor, the #8 45 degree from the compressor to the condensor and the #6 line to the dryer from my evaporator. Of course some of the other "final" placements of other components had to be relocated eg: fuel pressure gauge. all my top side fuel lines, my radiator de-gas tank I had made by Howe Radiator and a couple other things. Like I said before one step forward and two steps back.

Not much room left for my AC lines...

[Clois Harlan]

Here is something you need to know if you are using a late model Coyote Engine AC Compressor and an AC Kit similar to the Vintage Air. The stock Ford Coyote compressor needs to be adapted so you can us AN 10 and AN8 line fittings that comes with your kit. Here is your source for those adaptors: www.coldhose.com, select the Ford fittings #3-92876-3-93347 you will get both low pressure and high pressure fittings allowing you to convert your manifold style compressor to one that will work with your Vintage Air kit.

[Clois Harlan]

Illustration

Description

Part #

Price

Order





Ford DKS-17DS, FS18, FS20 Compressor Block Fittings These blocks are for Ford compressors including DKS-17DS, FS18 and FS20.


Ford DKS-17DS, FS18, FS20 Suction and Discharge Block Fittings

3-92876-3-93347

$69.50

Order

[Clois Harlan]

Finished up my fuel system last night and am waiting on a 1" x 5/8" silicone elbow to arrive today to finish up my radiator plumbing. Also, waiting on a couple AC fittings to complete that installation too. Then a close look at all ground wires and engine connections to make sure nothing has been overlooked before I move on to the dash and first start.

Nothing to exciting for the next few days.

[Clois Harlan]

I finally finished the plumbing on my Coyote Coupe AC-Heater-Fuel Reg etc. and here are a few pictures:

The beginning of the final location of my Radiator Fill Tank:



Here it is after I finished welding and plumbing the radiator fill tank: