Radio in SPF coupe

ENTDOC · #1 (**permalink**) 07-31-2007, 06:54 PM

How did you guys configure your radio and speakers? Obviously the radio goes into the opening designed for it, but what about an amp or changer, how many speakers and where did you put them. chuck

rcweingart · #2 (**permalink**) 08-02-2007, 11:16 AM

Putting the deck in the dash opening is of course obvious, but there is not a lot of depth before you run into the A/C duct and, worse, the wiper mechanism. This necessitates the shallowest deck you can find. I used a front loading MP3 deck so I didn't have to install a changer. I burn my own CDs and can get almost 20 hours of songs on an MP3 CD. I used 4" speakers with the smallest diameter bezel that I trimmed down to fit inside the door panel depression below the window handles. You can install rear speakers in the two storage compartments at the very rear of the rear hatch if you want. The units pull right out with a bit of forcefull persuasion. There is not a lot a space to install a hidden amplifier so I got a higher wattage deck instead of using an amp.

ENTDOC · #3 (**permalink**) 08-02-2007, 12:38 PM

thanks, I did notice the area in the far front of the passenger footbox has some space. Mine has the MSD there now , but some room for a small amp I suppose. By the way, I just finished installing dynamat throughout the interior and firewall as well as 1/2 inch neoprene closed cell foam. It has made a temendous difference in heat gain as well as noise control. there were many places that had no insulation. chuck

rcweingart · #4 (**permalink**) 08-02-2007, 12:47 PM

I have the Roush DFI engine and I put the ECU for the unit in the passenger's foot well so I didn't have a lot of room there but note, however, that it is not ventilated and most amps give off a lot of heat which, in a closed space, isn't too good for either the amp or the MSD.

I used Dynomat in the doors adjacent to where I have my speakers to keep sound from revererating in the doors even though the factory has a rubber foam pad on most of the inside door skin (but not where the speakers go). Adding insultation to the firewall and adjoing areas is a very good thing. I revised my heater plumbing and valve as well as addding a shut off valve on the other line so that the heater core is completely isolated and now my A/C blows so cold that I have to turn it down and away or I get head freeze. You might consider this in addition to the added insulation.

ENTDOC · #5 (**permalink**) 08-02-2007, 02:45 PM

do you mean a shutoff where the line exits the engine manifold, before it gets to the valve? any pics? thanks; chuck

rcweingart · #6 (**permalink**) 08-02-2007, 02:58 PM

Okay, first I replaced the factory heater valve with a simple in-line heater valve from NAPA but any in-line valve without a bypass line will work. That goes on whichever of the two lines into the heater core that the original valve was on. Next, on the other line (and there are only two lines into the core, one supply, the other return - and it doesn't much matter which) install a simple in-line shut off valve. The trick is to completely isolate the heater from any by-pass or leakage. The reason most SPF coupe ACs don't work well is that hot water leaks through to the heater core, through which the AC air also passes, and heats up the core and so the AC air as well. Isolating the heater core from engine hot water reduces the heat in the heater core and the AC air stays cold. In cold weather when you're not using the AC, turn the shut-off valve back on so hot water can get to the heater core and you've got heat.