Grinds going in to reverse

[Tony Radford]

Though I've never experienced any trouble with my Toploader (5K miles), it has started grinding when I engage reverse. I did have the fluid changed recently, though I don't know what fluid the ship used. Any ideas?

[mr0077]

Tony, most likely you need to adjust the clutch to get a bit more release...particularly if you also notice a little more effort required to put it into a forward gear while idling too.

[Tony Radford]

Thanks Ken. I just had a new flywheel and King Cobra clutch assembly installed a couple of weeks ago. I really believe it's engaging enough. I'll play with it a bit longer before getting depressed.

T

[Allan A]

I am not sure if this will work with you tranny, but I was told to put it in a forward gear before going back into reverse. Once I started doing this no more grinds.

[GeorgiaSnake]

Tony

Just bump first gear enough the engage the syncros then go to reverse I don't think it will grind then. Also the clutch may be out a touch as others have suggested. At the rate you are driving you are going to wear out your hand shifting - Hope to join you soon

[Tony Radford]

Thanks Randy. I've tried this before, I'll slow down and attempt a better job. Maybe I simply lack "finesse". I went out for an hour or so yesterday afternoon, up through Braselton via back roads and back. It was way too much fun. The car is running so well (as long as I don't back up). Are you going to be running a Toploader and 3.31 rear end? I must say, if you like seening how fast you can get up to 100+ and back down again, this is the way to go. On the backroads, I feel INVINCIBLE!

[GeorgiaSnake]

Toploader and a 3:31 for both me and Clyde. One word - BECARFULTHATTHINGWILLBITEYOURASSINAHEARTBEAT

[Jerry Cowing]

Tony,

I had the same problem trying to adjust the clutch on my Unique. It would never adjust correctly. Either it was; tight enough not to grind going into reverse but then the clutch slipped in forward gears OR if I adjusted it not to slip in forward gears, I couldn't get it into reverse unless I shut the engine off first. I was told to put spacers behind the clutch fork to change the fulcrum point, then to adjust it this way and then that way, etc. etc. etc. I burnt my first clutch out in 2000 miles trying unsuccessfully to adjust it back and forth, back and forth until I ruined the clutch.

Finally discovered the problem. Mine had a 3/4 inch master cylinder and a 1 inch slave cylinder. There just wasn't enough fluid being pushed from the 3/4 master to the 1" slave to move the slave cylinder far enough to get a correct adjustment. Do the hydraulics math and you'll quickly see the problem.

I replaced the 3/4 Wilwood master with a 7/8 inch Wilwood master and it solved the problem. The part number from Summit Racing is Wilwood 260-6765. If you want to see what it looks like go to http://www.wilwood.com/ Very easy to change.

You can also do a bunch more work and change the slave cylinder to a 7/8" slave, but you'll have to fabricate a new bracket to hold the 7/8 slave. Your master cylinder must be 1/8 inch smaller than your slave or it will never adjust correctly. If the master and slave are the same size (i.e. both are 1"), the peddle pressure will be too hard to push comfortably. If the master is more than 1/8 inch smaller than the slave, it can't move enough fluid to disengage the clutch completely.

[Bill Wells]

the rule of going into reverse without grinding the gears is quite simply: " FIRST FIRST before reverse " ! when you stop your car, pause a millisecond from whatever gear you are in, go into FIRST gear and that stops the gears from spinning..then go right into reverse. presto , no grinding ...FIRST FIRST before reverse ! its like a hot knife cutting thru warm butter, smooth and easy. b