Turn Signal Assembly Removal

patrickt · #1 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 11:59 AM

Bob, in order to pull the dash rearward to allow for hand room to replace a gauge it looks like the turn signal assembly will need to be pulled up the steering column a bit as well. Is there any trick to moving this turn signal assemly up the column? Is there a sneaky little cam in there that I'm going to break off?

LMH · #2 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 12:56 PM

VW assembly, same as mine. Loosen that little screw in the photo and it should slide off.
Larry

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMH

VW assembly, same as mine. Loosen that little screw in the photo and it should slide off.
Larry

That's what I thought... and then I thought, "Naahhh, it's never that easy on these cars."

LMH · #4 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 01:28 PM

The only thing I can't see in the photo is if there's a cancel ring or not on the shaft. It would be a small collar with a cam/ridge to cancel the turn signal after your turn. It might have to come off if it's there.
Larry

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 01:37 PM

The ERA assembly manual describes it as sliding on and "snapping in to place" -- but it might be refering to the Triumph assembly, I can't really be sure. Here's a different angle:

Rick Parker · #6 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 02:17 PM

It is an entirely self contained unit. Loosen the screw a couple of turns and it will slide off the steering column. and be dangling by the wires.

LMH · #7 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 02:23 PM

See that little thing sticking out to the left of your shaft...

Looks like I see a canceler (sp) on the left side of the shaft. It may or may not be in the way.
Just go at it slow and it should come off.
Larry

patrickt · #8 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 02:29 PM

Well I might not have to pull it off at all -- I just need an inch or two more to get my fat hand up under the dash to loosen the thumbscrews on one of the gauges, and I met get that by pulling the dash back without screwing with the turn signal switch. It looks to me like that little cam thing is in the way... but Rick's advice is just yank it out of there.

Rick Parker · #9 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 04:42 PM

The cancellor will by design just clear the ID bore. No need to "YANK IT", at least not the turn signal assembly. Save that for later...........

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

The cancellor will by design just clear the ID bore. No need to "YANK IT", at least not the turn signal assembly. Save that for later...........

I found the part on a VW site. I think you're exactly right.

strictlypersonl · #11 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 04:49 PM

Pat's configuration (quick-release steering wheel) is a little different from the stock setup where the canceling pins are built into the steering wheel hub. I'd be careful shifting the signal switch back - you might damage the little arms that are part of the switch's canceling mechanism. Instead, loosen the clamp at the front end of the upper column and slide the inner column back, together with the column housing.

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

Pat's configuration (quick-release steering wheel) is a little different from the stock setup where the canceling pins are built into the steering wheel hub. I'd be careful shifting the signal switch back - you might damage the little arms that are part of the switch's canceling mechanism. Instead, loosen the clamp at the front end of the upper column and slide the inner column back, together with the column housing.

Thanks Bob. I knew it is never as easy as it first seems.

Rick Parker · #13 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 05:48 PM

Quit mess'n around!

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6509.../dp/B0000789HE

RICK LAKE · #14 (**permalink**) 10-18-2009, 06:27 AM

PatrickT Pat I removed all the screws in the dash and the 2 bolts in the upper sterring column and dropped the whole thing about 3" to get to the amp gauge and remove it. I have 2 small 2/4's holding the assemblies up. Tilt the dask a little forward, it should be no problem. Just be carefull to not pinch the wires when reinstalled the dash. Ps small hands make it alot easier than bear paws

patrickt · #15 (**permalink**) 10-18-2009, 08:23 AM

Rick, you're saying that instead of loosening the upper clamp bolts that Bob wrote about you remove those bolts entirely thus allowing the steering column to drop down towards the floor. You then pull the dash out a couple of inches and angle the top of the dash out and remove the gauge by coming in from above the top of the dash, not by lying on your back on the floor coming in from below. Correct?

RICK LAKE · #16 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 03:53 AM

patrickt Pat This is what I did. All my boxes are mounted under the dash on the r/s. I didnot have alot of room, just enough for hand and small speed racket to get behind there. I did have to pull on the main trunk of the harness a little. If you are having issues follow what Bob said. My car is a early 400#, your is in the 700#'s. Bob has made some changes between my build and yours. I don't have a quick change steering wheel either. Not allowed in NJ on street cars. Will not pass inspection. Rick L.

patrickt · #17 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 04:00 PM

Well you don't have to remove the turn signal assembly, you don't have to loosen the clamps, you don't have to drop the steering column, you don't really have to do much at all except remove the little tubes that run from the dash to the tunnel and then remove the five dash screws. The dash then pulls out and down far enough to get your hand down from the top without any problem. Here's a lousy cellphone shot of it -- I didn't have a camera available at the time but you can kind of tell the room that you have after dropping the dash.

RodKnock · #18 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 04:53 PM

In my best HAL voice from 2001 Space Odyssey..."Pat, what are you doing in there?"

patrickt · #19 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

In my best HAL voice from 2001 Space Odyssey..."Pat, what are you doing in there?"

Replacing my broken fuel gauge. But a lot of guys ask about changing out their ammeter for a volt gauge and, on the ERA cars, I can tell you, it's about a half-hour job.

patrickt · #20 (**permalink**) 10-21-2009, 08:06 AM

Here's a better shot showing the steering column/turn signal assembly which would be the next thing in your way if you wanted additional room. I think there's still an additional quarter to half inch of space for my dash to move (which I didn't need).