Progress on #782 - Page 11

kevins2 · #**201** (**permalink**) 10-15-2013, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Kevin,

I was just getting ready to send you a PM to see if you got it in. We need pictures now.

Dan

Hi Dan,

Yes, got the drivetrain in, including driveshaft. Also got the primaries and sidepipes on - haven't installed the hangers yet. I have photos and will update my thread as soon as I can. My next couple of days are busy at work, so may take a couple days to get the photos on-line. I'm also still thinking about how much I want to shim the transmission mount. Will take some photos and start a new thread for that question when I get a chance.

This thread is about YOU, so didn't want to totally hijack it, but since you asked...

Regards,

Kevin

DanEC · #**202** (**permalink**) 10-15-2013, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevins2

Hi Dan,

This thread is about YOU, so didn't want to totally hijack it, but since you asked...

Regards,

Kevin

Congrats on the install - not much on my thread to note. My exhaust system is back at the platers. I'm in the process of repainting the surge tank. Fixed the leaking brake fluid can but then I noted a very, very slight amount of fluid on the bottom of the other one so I guess I'll have to re-seal it too.

kevins2 · #**203** (**permalink**) 10-15-2013, 10:20 AM

Hi Dan,

Yes, I saw the photo of the "pile" of pipes after you removed them. On the bright side, I'm sure you'll be able to install them much quicker the second time and get back on track.

Regards,

Kevin

DanEC · #**204** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 02:52 PM

Finally recovering from some set backs. The exhaust has returned from being re-coated at the ceramic platers and the primaries and one collector are back in place. Hopefully the full exhaust will be back on in the next week or so. The expansion tank was re-soldered and is back on. Brake fluid can leaks are fixed. The transmission tailhousing bolt that was leaking has been fixed by sealing the threads after draining and cleaning.

Carpet is in. I still lack the trunk and the rear bulkhead will be all vinyl. Trico washer bottle is mounted. Transmission tunnel has been assembled. Doors are on. Hood is on. When I get the windshield on it will almost look like something.

I'll point out for Bob's benefit, the assembly manual laying on the dash cowl. He probably thinks I never read it.

[IMG]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/dclemans/ERA%20Cobra/IMG_****_zps1cdf264e.jpg[/IMG]

ERA Chas · #**205** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 03:02 PM

Very meticulous work Dan.
Just one concern I have. I think with the closed hood and Stellings, those carbs will get very little air. And what they do get will be hot air.
I don't wish it on you but you may find stalling when stopping for lights when up to temps.
In my case, the solution was whistle vents and cool air-lots of it.

DanEC · #**206** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Very meticulous work Dan.
Just one concern I have. I think with the closed hood and Stellings, those carbs will get very little air. And what they do get will be hot air.
I don't wish it on you but you may find stalling when stopping for lights when up to temps.
In my case, the solution was whistle vents and cool air-lots of it.

Hi Chas - thanks. Yeah, I know those Stellings don't flow much air. When I get around to it I'm going to try to measure my hood clearance and see if I can fit any K&N elements that are a little taller and flow slightly better. I think I should be able to - the carbs are actually pretty low compared to the expansion tank. That won't do anything for air temps. I would pretty much have to have a scooped hood to help that any. I'm hoping it will be pretty much like my 66 427 Corvette which has been OK in summer. I run it with the hood louver baffles in place.

ERA Chas · #**207** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 04:21 PM

OK as long as you're aware. I know you built for the 'OE' look so open tops and air pan are out for you.
But when you're not showing it and just want to drive, you may fab something like mine. It's a PIA trying to keep it lit when it's eating hot air.

mickmate · #**208** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 04:48 PM

Hey Dan it's looking great glad to see the ratchets turning in the right direction again. It's no different to any other street car set up like they built back then. With the improved radiator and puller fan efficiency combined with the ERA comp style fender vents I would be surprised if it gives you any problems.

*13* · #**209** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 05:11 PM

Looks great!

lippy · #**210** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 06:57 PM

Dan,
The car looks great. It seems you solved your problems with the carpet on the tunnel and near the doors. One question for you: on the trapezoidal piece ahead of the tunnel, did you tuck the carpet under the tunnel? It looks like you did in the photo.
-Lippy

DanEC · #**211** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lippy

Dan,
The car looks great. It seems you solved your problems with the carpet on the tunnel and near the doors. One question for you: on the trapezoidal piece ahead of the tunnel, did you tuck the carpet under the tunnel? It looks like you did in the photo.
-Lippy

Thanks Lippy. On the door sills I finally resorted to the age-old mechanics aid -a hammer and body dolly. I put a couple layers of Gorilla tape on the aluminum and then used a curved dolly and hammer to work and stretch the outside edge of the trim to lay flat (flatter anyway) to the fiberglass sill. Not perfect but better.

I rolled the carpet at the forward edge of the tunnel per ERA and it actually fits better than I thought it would. I'm probably going to have to use a thicker foam strip at the bottom to seal well - 1/4 inch instead of the 1/8 inch foam tape I planned to use. The carpet on the footwells may still extend further under the tunnel than necessary too and possibly needs more trimming.

I used velcro on the trapezoidal piece and it was in place before I set the tunnel in so it probably just looks tucked under the tunnel but it's actually just butting up to the rolled edge on the tunnel. Since it's held by velcro I can adjust it. I used HD velcro for the pieces under the seats too although the seats are probably all that's needed there.

Our cars sort of look like SC and Street Roadster cousins.

Dan

DanEC · #**212** (**permalink**) 11-23-2013, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Hey Dan it's looking great glad to see the ratchets turning in the right direction again. It's no different to any other street car set up like they built back then. With the improved radiator and puller fan efficiency combined with the ERA comp style fender vents I would be surprised if it gives you any problems.

Thanks Nick - are those street roadster single motor pusher fans making any progress?

Dan

kevins2 · #**213** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 07:52 AM

Hi Dan,

I was happy to read about the progress you've made. The car is looking good and you'll be back in new territory soon. On the front tunnel carpet, did you use self-adhesive velcro and, if so, did it stick to the carpet well? ERA used to sew velcro into that piece but Jack indicated he uses contact cement these days. A few small spots of contact cement would work and still give access to the screws for removal but I also want to consider velcro.

Thanks,

Kevin

lippy · #**214** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 09:27 AM

Kevin,
I used Velcro but made sure it was good quality (McMaster Carr). The better ones have strong adhesive. I applied it right at the bends and I don't think contact cement would be any better. But either way would work.
Lippy

kevins2 · #**215** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 09:35 AM

Thanks Lippy,

Jack's comment was that the velcro wouldn't stick to the carpet back long-term but, as you pointed out, there are different qualities available. I'll probably try velcro first and if it doesn't hold, I can always glue it later. I like the idea of being able to remove it and getting it out of the way.

Kevin

DanEC · #**216** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevins2

Hi Dan,

I was happy to read about the progress you've made. The car is looking good and you'll be back in new territory soon. On the front tunnel carpet, did you use self-adhesive velcro and, if so, did it stick to the carpet well? ERA used to sew velcro into that piece but Jack indicated he uses contact cement these days. A few small spots of contact cement would work and still give access to the screws for removal but I also want to consider velcro.

Thanks,

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, I finished up the exhaust re-install today so I'm back at square one.

No, the HD self-stick velcro (I bought 2 and 3 inch wide) does not stick very well to the carpet although that particular piece seems to have stuck well. So far it seems to stick to everything else real well. I'm planning to go back and contact cement the velcro to the carpet back on the pieces under the seat. I put a strip under the heel pad of the drivers floor mat also to make sure it doesn't slide or move.

I may use velcro on some of the trunk carpet peices also - at least the bottom mat.

Did you get your car registered?

Dan

DanEC · #**217** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 03:49 PM

The velcro I bought was a HD, industrial type velcro. I forget where I ordered it - it may have been from McMasters. I suspect it would stick better if I had wiped the back of the carpet with lacquer thinner first to remove any talc on the rubber scrim. But a little contact cement will fix it up I'm sure.

kevins2 · #**218** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 04:20 PM

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the info. I passed the enhanced inspection and the paperwork is at the State. I'm told it takes 3 weeks to get a tag and VIN back. In the mean time, I've run into a setback myself (I knew things were going way too well...). Discovered that there is a bad bearing in the Jag rear end where the half shaft goes into the differential. There is supposed to be a bit of hub play, but after only 80 miles, when you check the hub play the entire shaft, including the brake rotor, wiggles quite a bit on one side - other side is fine. I sent a video of it to ERA and they confirmed that something's wrong in there. So, either the bearing was defective or the locking ring/bolt that holds it in place came loose. I'm in the process of removing the rear and Doug will talk me though checking it out. If there are any shavings in the fluid, they'll replace the entire rear assembly.

I also have an oil leak at the intake manifold gasket along the back edge.

So, forward progress has stopped for a bit...

Kevin

patrickt · #**219** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevins2

I also have an oil leak at the intake manifold gasket along the back edge.

That's pretty common -- probably over by the passenger side's head corner. You can almost eliminate it (unless it's a gusher) by putting your rubber glove on, putting a glob of Ultra-Grey RTV on your index finger, and then run your finger along the manifold/head/block line. Allow it to dry, then do it again.

kevins2 · #**220** (**permalink**) 11-24-2013, 06:56 PM

Yes, that's the location. Also seeping a bit over toward the driver's side as well but not as much. Engine builder had me put my shop vac on one of the breather holes to create a vacuum in the engine and block off the other one. Cleaned up the oil with carb cleaner and tried it. Still leaks so will try it again. I'm using "Right Stuff" gasket maker. I think that's pretty much what the RTV is. Let me know if there's a difference and I'll try it.

Dan, sorry, I seem to have hijacked your thread...

Kevin