Progress on #782

[patrickt]

Uhhh, maybe you should concentrate on making a doggie harness for the passenger seat instead?

[1795]

Dan,

I am waiting to hear what ERA has to say, my guess is that you are right in that the legs will have to be trimmed. It is frustrating to be so close, and then have something like this happen. Just a minor pause in the project. On Monday will be presented to you and you will be finishing up in no time.

[frdfver]

I had to trim my front top header pieces to fit and clear the side latches on the windscreen frame. Were the top bow adj ferrules on the original Cobras, or is that just something ERA does? I also had to reshape my top bows, rounded them more in the corners, still need to do a little more. Installing the top is quite a challenge. Top came from Cobra Restorers and I believe it is a Robbins top.

Paul T.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by frdfver

I had to trim my front top header pieces to fit and clear the side latches on the windscreen frame. Were the top bow adj ferrules on the original Cobras, or is that just something ERA does? I also had to reshape my top bows, rounded them more in the corners, still need to do a little more. Installing the top is quite a challenge. Top came from Cobra Restorers and I believe it is a Robbins top.

Paul T.

Thanks Paul - that pretty much confirms about the only avenue to take that I could see. Surprised Jack at ERA didn't mention that when I talked to him a few weeks ago. I don't know about the adjustable ferrules - it kind of makes sense the originals used those also but I don't know. I've had to do a lot of bending of my bows, although I haven't concentrated on rounding the corners much. By any chance was it the back bow that you did most of the rounding on - it seems to be a little small in radius?

I cut an inch off the main bow, and 1-1/2 inches off the back one so far - but it's going to have to be trimmed some more. With the adjustment screwed about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch out the top seems pretty tight over the main bow but until I get the back one fitted it's hard to tell where I will end up. Did you do much trimming on your back bows?

My top is from Robbins also. Unfortunately I had all of my bows powdercoated first and they are getting pretty marked up. I guess I will have to take them back down to be recoated after I get everything trimmed and properly bent. Fortunately the powder coater I used is very reasonable in pricing.

Dan

[1795]

Dan,

How much was your top from Robbins? I have not ordered mine from ERA yet, they are not getting a new shipment in for a few weeks and I wanted to compare pricing. Thanks.

Jim

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by 1795

Dan,

How much was your top from Robbins? I have not ordered mine from ERA yet, they are not getting a new shipment in for a few weeks and I wanted to compare pricing. Thanks.

Jim

Jim - I actually bought mine through ERA. But it came in a Robbins Tops box and has a Robbins tag sewn into it. I have looked at Robbin's website but they pretty much just advertise for original CSX cars. I can't be sure if it's a straight forward CSX car top (which I suspect it is) or if ERA has them manufactured to their own template. They advise to check with the replica manufactuer for top fit.

ROBBINS AUTO TOP COMPANY | CONVERTIBLE TOPS

[1795]

I was wondering if that might be the case. When I spoke with ERA they said that they had to order more parts for the tops and once they had all of the parts in order, they would ship them out.

Waiting to hear what you hear, and I will be certain to ask a lot of questions when I complete making my order.

[DanEC]

The answer from ERA was to cut the windshield bows off above the clip on the windshield. I cut 3/4 inches above the clip as that left enough for riveting the clasp to. The driver side bow fit on the windshield well but the passenger side was kind of a mess. So I spent about an hour twisting and bending it to get it to fit down over the top of the windshield without drama. I filed down all the rough edges and smoothed out a couple of spots and I'm going down to return it to the powder coaters today to get it re-coated. I expect to have to make one further cut on the back bow but I should be able to touch it up with some semi-flat paint to match the powder coating. Maybe I can resume by next week end.

I guess the lesson learned is if you intend to coat or paint the bows, wait until you get everything trial fitted and then do so.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I guess the lesson learned is...

No, the lesson learned is to just let Jack do it and, instead, concentrate on how your NCAA brackets are doing....

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

No, the lesson learned is to just let Jack do it and, instead, concentrate on how your NCAA brackets are doing....

Too far - $1200 shipping there and $1200 shipping back. I will keep plugging away at it. You know I love this do-it-yourself stuff.

[1795]

That is why we do it, the tinkering and aggravation is half the fun Thanks for helping me learn from your mistakes. I will make sure that powder coating the bows is the last thing that I do.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by 1795

That is why we do it, the tinkering and aggravation is half the fun Thanks for helping me learn from your mistakes. I will make sure that powder coating the bows is the last thing that I do.

Jim

I'm still going to have to make one last cut on the rear bow after I get them back but I have some semi-gloss POR 15 that I think will touch up the cut end fine. Jack said to fit the rear bow last, after the top fabric is glued to the front bow. I had (having) them coated with semi-gloss black powder coating. I'm not sure what color they originally were. I would have considered leaving them natural but they had a little surface rust here and there on them.

[tboneheller]

I still have a brand new-in-box top with all hardware that I purchased from Cobra Restorers if you need a spare.

[cscobra]

Dan - I wound up taking out about ¾" from the main bow and ⅞" from the rear bow (at the center of each) for the best fit on my top. Fortunately, I didn't need to modify any other parts except for installing larger screws for the top latch hooks on the windshield posts, as previously described.

On a side note, I installed a Sunbeam Tiger shift boot a year ago which solved all of my "popping out of gear" problems. This topic has been dealt with before on this forum, but here is a link to the vendor where I bought mine: http://www.rootes.com/

If your shifting problems disappear with your current shift boot completely pulled away from the tunnel, then this solution may work for you. The Tiger shift boot is thinner and much more pliable than the ones supplied with our ERA kits (possibly other kit brands, too); it looks identical when installed. This simple change made me a happy camper.

[DanEC]

Cscobra - There must be a lot of variation in these bows if you didn't have to cut the windshield bow to miss the clips. I had to cut about an inch off both of mine. I think I'm going to be cutting close to 2 to 2-1/2 inches out of my back bow before all is done. I have 1-1/2 inches cut out now but it's no where close to fitting yet. Part of that could be differences in where we located the lift-a-dot tabs on the top hem. Mine is pretty snug at the snap right at the outside corners and I wish I had moved it out another 1/4 to 3/8 inch.

Since I installed the transmission shifter spacer from ERA I haven't had any problems with it kicking out of gear. But I might still check into that Tiger boot as the ERA one is pretty thick.

Thanks

Dan

[cscobra]

Agree with the probability of variation.

I would predict that you'd be happy with the shift boot change.

[DanEC]

I got my bows back from the powder coater and started back at it. Anyone have any observations or suggestions on the slack material above each side curtain? I cranked up the main bow as tight as I thought I should but it didn't make a lot of difference. I can pull a lot of it out by pulling the fabric very tightly down over the turned down end of the windshield bow. Problem is I'm not sure how to pull it that tight and get it glued to where it will hold until I can rivet the bow clamps on.

Tried to call Jack for advice but he's through for the week and won't be back until Monday.

[cscobra]

It will look better with the rear bow in position. Keep pulling (gently!) the material to each side and forward--you'll get there.

[1795]

It looks like you are making progress. I agree that you should try to gently pull some of the material forward and down on the sides. The problem is that given the disparity between the shape of the bows and the windshield, it will be very hard to have a smooth line on those side slopes. You should be able to tighten it up a little more; however most of the tops that I have seen certainly do not look perfect.

[DanEC]

Except for the final push when I get ready to glue it down, I've pulled the top forward pretty firmly. A lot of it is controlled by the main bow placement. It has to be bent forward/backwards to basically fit the pleat in the corners of the top when the top material is firmly pulled to the windshield. I think I have that in pretty good shape given the back bow is not there at this time. The fit around the sidecurtains, especially at the back is good also.

ERA's instructions are also to keep pulling the material to the front and I'm not sure if there is something in this instruction that I'm missing or not. Right now there is definately some pressure on the windshield and I'm a little worried about putting much more on it.

I think once I get it glued and anchored at the center then I can work at pulling it a little tighter to the sides. I think I may have to actually remove it to glue it to the leg that turns down the windshield to get it good and tight - or just raise the end up off the windshield some to create a little slack. From my tugging on it, that seems to be what will minimize that lose area above the side curtains.

Cscobra - does this sound about right? All comments, lessons learned, photos and observations are welcome.

Dan