So, Should I Replace This Part or Not? - Page 2

ZOERA-SC7XX · #21 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 04:09 PM

I had to cut my hardened fork to clear the tunnel flange but could not get the cutoff tool in there, so I used a Sawsall. Worked like a charm and didn't have to take anything apart. After you get your required clearance, mix up some epoxy and apply it to the worn area.

Ibr8k4vetts · #22 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 05:29 PM

Just put in a small block and you won't have that problem!

cobred · #23 (**permalink**) 10-19-2010, 08:45 PM

Maybe if someone holds the clutch pedal to the floor the fork will move enough to get a cutoff wheel or grinder in there. Then just leave the master alone if its not leaking.

cdnus · #24 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 08:31 AM

Maybe you could remove the slave cylinder rod to allow the spring to pull the fork as far forward as possible. Then if it moves forward enough you could get in there with a small cable drive Dremel attachment & grind the end of the fork the required amount.
With the fork in place you would be able to move it by hand back into position & check for clearance.

Craig

patrickt · #25 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 09:33 AM

Here's a better shot of the rub. The previous photo was a little deceptive on the angles. It will be impossible to grind/cut the end of the fork without removing the master cylinder first, and it doesn't matter whether the fork is forward or back in that regard. What I ended up doing for now, while I wait for a new plastic inlet from Tilton, is to mark the rub area with a black magic marker to see if it is still rubbing or not. I'll try and get the car out for run when the weather improves.

blykins · #26 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 10:06 AM

The plastic looks very, very think in that top picture.

It's probably worse at a low rpm than at a higher rpm or higher load, because of the way the engine moves under load.

RodKnock · #27 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 10:07 AM

As you get older and shrink, maybe you when you're 6'2" or less, you can move the master cylinder back where it should be.

Why not make this a Winter project for yourself and R&R the whole thing?

kgs365 · #28 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 10:18 AM

is the additional roll bar causing this rub?....sorry...maybe i should just say yes...i'd replace it!...it can't more then a $20.00 piece of plastic that would cause nothing but grief when it brakes

tgitchel · #29 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I think that's probably exactly what I'm going to do. I only need to cut a piece of the fork about the size of a thumbnail.

I did the same thing on mine with a cutoff wheel. It was a bit of a pain getting the correct angle without cutting something I didn't want cut, but it worked out fine without taking anything apart.

rodneym · #30 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:01 AM

Way better picture. That nylon is down to the quick. You know what you need to do. Remove the entire drivetrain.

But it's creeping over time, don't you think? It's not like the fork took all that off at one time. Plus, the nut doesn't seem centered on the fork anymore.
rodneym

Three Peaks · #31 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:05 AM

Patrick,
I have a Wilwood unit which I think is the same one as the Tiltons use. You don't have much plastic left there as you probably already know.
If you need one, I have a couple spares. I could drop one in the mail for you if you need it quickly.

Bob

patrickt · #32 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Three Peaks

I could drop one in the mail for you if you need it quickly.

Thanks Bob, but Pegasus has already shipped one out to me. I know I have to take everything apart and replace it. But...

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

... you could get in there with a small cable drive Dremel attachment & grind the end of the fork the required amount.

Craig, I stuck "can my Dremel cut through case hardened steel" and this little blog popped up with photos. http://blog.daveduncan.ca/?p=2274 Having a relatively small, easily controlled tool like my Dremel could make this job a heckuva lot easier than I first thought....

Z-linkCobra · #33 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodneym

Way better picture. That nylon is down to the quick. You know what you need to do. Remove the entire drivetrain.

But it's creeping over time, don't you think? It's not like the fork took all that off at one time. Plus, the nut doesn't seem centered on the fork anymore.
rodneym

You need to pay real close attention to this post...he's right that did not happen in one swipe. Something is moving side to side down there that is probably going to get worse as time goes on.

Good catch Rod.

patrickt · #34 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-linkCobra

You need to pay real close attention to this post...he's right that did not happen in one swipe. Something is moving side to side down there that is probably going to get worse as time goes on.

Good catch Rod.

I went back and checked my archives. It's been doing this for years. I just caught it though on my inspection this week. Here's a shot from when the car was literally brand new. What also irritates me is that I bet I've looked directly at that wear a couple of dozen times and still didn't see it.

rodneym · #35 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:35 AM

Good catch Rod.[/quote]

FINALLY!!!

My head hurts.

dcdoug · #36 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Craig, I stuck "can my Dremel cut through case hardened steel" and this little blog popped up with photos. Having a relatively small, easily controlled tool like my Dremel could make this job a heckuva lot easier than I first thought....

I use a cut-off wheel in my rotozip all the time. 30,000 rpm = knife through butter.

patrickt · #37 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

I use a cut-off wheel in my rotozip all the time. 30,000 rpm = knife through butter.

It would never have occurred to me that my Dremel would cut through my clutch fork. Makes me appreciate the fact that Jamo hasn't kicked me off this forum....

RodKnock · #38 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:10 PM

Personally, I would sell the car. Too many issues.

cdnus · #39 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:11 PM

Those little buggers will cut almost anything steel, but are VERY fragile.
They will explode in a heartbeat if jammed up at all, be sure to wear protection

(for your eyes )

If you have access problems with the dremel, have a look at the cable drive attachment. It will get in much tighter places.

Craig

patrickt · #40 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Personally, I would sell the car. Too many issues.

I'm shocked you're not praising me for having the eagle eye to have spotted this before it left me stranded.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

Those little buggers will cut almost anything steel, but are VERY fragile.
They will explode in a heartbeat if jammed up at all, be sure to wear protection

(for your eyes )

If you have access problems with the dremel, have a look at the cable drive attachment. It will get in much tighter places.

Craig

Got it. I think I'll have plenty of room once I remove the master cylinder, and I think I would probably do that anyway to get that plastic inlet on the top of it. Uhhh, I guess I should take pics?

EDIT -- Cable Drive, hmmm... Man, I love an excuse to buy a new tool.