Remove radiator to remove/install motor?

[LodiWino]

I have had the motor in and out of ERA 773 for mock up enough times times to do it blind folded. Every time I have been pulling the radiator.

Today when I was pulling the motor (427 with TKO600 transmission attached), it looked like there is enough clearance to leave the radiator in place.

What are you guys doing when pulling the motor? Leaving the radiator in place would save a lot of time and mess!

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by LodiWino

I have had the motor in and out of ERA 773 for mock up enough times times to do it blind folded. Every time I have been pulling the radiator.

Today when I was pulling the motor (427 with TKO600 transmission attached), it looked like there is enough clearance to leave the radiator in place.

What are you guys doing when pulling the motor? Leaving the radiator in place would save a lot of time and mess!

I've never had to remove the radiator when pulling or installing the motor in my Cobras.....The radiator is set so far forward of the front X member that removing it is a non issue.


Bill S.

[strictlypersonl]

With the earlier cars, we've always separated the engine and trans in order to remove the engine. later cars have a different footbox design which might make taking both out easier, but we haven't tried it yet.

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by LodiWino

I have had the motor in and out of ERA 773 for mock up enough times times to do it blind folded. Every time I have been pulling the radiator.

Today when I was pulling the motor (427 with TKO600 transmission attached), it looked like there is enough clearance to leave the radiator in place.

What are you guys doing when pulling the motor? Leaving the radiator in place would save a lot of time and mess!

You guys have it made, you have to remove the radiator on a stocker to get the hood off before you can think about pulling the engine.

[RICK LAKE]

LodiWino I have ERA 428. I have pulled the motor only and it's all aluminum. I have never pulled the raditor to pull motor. I do put heavy duty cardboard in the engine compartment to protect the fins from being hit or touched. Depending on your engine hoist, (I have a 2 ton portable) You need the car in the air about 8" to work under it when removing. The less weight you are working with the easier it is. Trans only weights about 110pound but sticks out and extra 28" that is not needed. My motor is 500 pounds. If you have an iron block you are looking at 600+ pounds.
I tape and blanket both fenders with moving mats. It's still a squeeze to get out even with 2 people. I work solo all the time. Having a tilt motor plate makes it easier to remove and install.
If I was to remove a motor and trans from a car or truck it would be a slide out with the frontend off.
The other question is the interior of the car, mine is for race and has seat and no rugs or trim inside. Tunnel is heat shielded in case of fire. It only take me about 3 minutes to remove tunnel. With rugs and trim in car it will take you guys longer, and then cover the rugs with cardboard or plastic to protect the interior from oil or damage. This would be a reason for leaving the trans on, and getting a good lift angle to remove. I guess there is no wrong way, old rule is work smarter, not harder. I will say that the first time I installed my shelby motor it was a short block and built it in the car. Biggest pain was the long head studs. When you have all the magic tools this is not a problem. Bottom line, SAFETY FIRST, THINK SMART, Make it easy on your self and take your TIME. The car is not going anywhere and it is real easy to scratch it, dent it, pinch wires, knuckle buster, or bleeder when working. Gloves are not a bad idea either. Rick L. Ps I do pull the surge tank, throttle body, distributor, and valve covers for the most room. I also drain engine oil and have a vacuum system for the coolant in the system to remove almost all and drain the block. Takes time but no mess. I let this happen over night.