ERA Assembly question?

[DanEC]

For the aluminum panel that forms the lower piece of the firewall and the forward top of the transmission tunnel under the dash - is this panel normally assmebled so that it is removable for transmission/clutch service?

I'm not sure whether I should rivet it in with sealant, or use oval head screws and 1/8 inch foam weatherstirp for future access.

Thanks

[patrickt]

Do you mean the piece that you see here?

[DanEC]

Patrick - yes, the top piece directly under the heater. It has two screws into clip-nuts on the lower firewall aluminum and then us kit assemblers are left with securing it to the footbox top flanges in some fashion.

From the picture of yours it looks like it's removal would help with bellhousing and clutch access after the transmission is out.

Dan

[kevins2]

I'll chime in with something Patrick suggested to me in another thread - that was to use a thread setter tool/rivet nuts rather than rivets for later removal of panels. Patrick, I was going to ask you at some point if you put your entire tunnel, including the piece Dan is asking about, together in that way so it can be removed without drilling out rivets.

Regards,

Kevin

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by kevins2

...including the piece Dan is asking about, together in that way so it can be removed without drilling out rivets.

No, the only thing that is easily removable is the tunnel itself -- and there is plenty of room, especially from beneath the car, to remove the bellhousing and clutch.

[Grubby]

With the tunnel out there is plenty of room to work. No need to make the other panel removable.

John

[DanEC]

OK - the rivet gun is coming out again.

Thanks all.

[cscobra]

As things stand now, I'm making mine removeable. Why not do so?

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by cscobra

As things stand now, I'm making mine removeable. Why not do so?

I could - but a question? Has anyone tried installing a rivnut in fiberglass? Did it work? I'm trying to avoid having too many pointy-tipped sheet metal screws down under there ready to snag my hands during maintenance and cleaning.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I could - but a question? Has anyone tried installing a rivnut in fiberglass? Did it work? I'm trying to avoid having too many pointy-tipped sheet metal screws down under there ready to snag my hands during maintenance and cleaning.

I have never done it. But, the PDF info sheet that comes with the Rivnut tool says it's for both "plastics and fiberglass." So, I say give it a try. http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/fa...ivnuts.pdf.pdf

[ERA Chas]

Most of the ERA 'glass is too thick for the reach of the inserts.
I think 3/16 or 1/4" is the max they come.

[Stoke Bloke]

Hi I have used ali rivnuts in fibreglass on my car and they work well dependent on the thickness of the glass, in areas where the glass is too thick (as long as there is very little load/strain) you can countersink the head a little.

[DanEC]

I'm not sure if the footbox fiberglass is as thick as some of the body areas. I'll take a look at it and see if it will work.

[Albie]

I put rivnuts in the same pieces you are asking about tonight - no problem.

[DanEC]

Thanks for the response. I guess the rivet tool stays put up and the rivnut tool will come back out.

[wolf k]

I put sheet metal screws through that panel into the fiberglass, hopefully, you won't be removing that piece very often. I did remove mine once after the car was completed to pull the engine, that was another story. Tunnel insulation covers the pointy ends of the screws. Having that panel remove-able is helpful for future engine removals.

[DanEC]

The rivnuts in fiberglass worked fine and it's in now. On to the next of many steps.

Thanks for the input.