Trying to decide on sway bars for my ERA

[lippy]

Hi,
I ordered my ERA 427 but haven't finalized all of my options. I've heard mixed reviews on whether the sway bars are necessary. Who has/hasn't ordered them and are you glad? I also understand they can be easily installed afterward, but it would be great if anyone has experience with that. Thanks!
-Lippy

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by lippy

Hi,
I ordered my ERA 427 but haven't finalized all of my options. I've heard mixed reviews on whether the sway bars are necessary. Who has/hasn't ordered them and are you glad? I also understand they can be easily installed afterward, but it would be great if anyone has experience with that. Thanks!
-Lippy

I don't have experience as my car is not on the road yet. I ordered both bars. Yes, you can easily install them later. I would suggest you order and istall the front one only, or order and install both.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I don't have experience as my car is not on the road yet. I ordered both bars. Yes, you can easily install them later. I would suggest you order and istall the front one only, or order and install both.

I have both. If you're looking to trim a buck off the build cost, initially eliminating the rear bar will save you a nickel or two... and putting it on at a later date is not a big deal. The front one comes standard, I believe.

[strictlypersonl]

The front bar is an option also. To save a few bucks, I would get the front bar only. Add the rear bar later. (It also means that the car will understeer more in your "acclimation phase". Not a bad thing.

[patrickt]

On the other hand, one benefit of significant oversteer is that it allows you to see what's behind you better....

[Buzz]

Cut and pasted from my reply in the Butler thread and intended as general discussion re: front and rear sway bars:


I enjoy a nice, firm ride in my car (Unique) with only a front sway bar. I elected to leave the rear bar off in favor of keeping some compliance in the rear suspension. This setup delivers a supple ride with a small amount of body roll; and the extra articulation in hard turns allows the IRS to do its job and keep the inside rear tire planted when I get on it early and hard exiting the corner.

The goal of eliminating all body roll often leads to excessive suspension stiffness which contributes to snappy oversteer, produces a harsh ride and is just not the ideal setup for a short, light sportscar with independent suspension.

With the rear planted in the corners, I find the handling to be more neutral as opposed to understeering, and oversteer can be induced relatively progressively (by Cobra standards) if desired.

Originally Posted by patrickt

I have both.

In an earlier thread, Patrick, you showed a pic of the front of your car jacked up a few inches which also raised the corresponding rear tire off the ground. You attributed that to frame stiffness - which is partially accurate because it wouldn't happen with a flimsy chassis - but the real story there is an alarming lack of articulation in your rear suspension. If I jack my car up like that, I'm happy to say I need to go a good way before I run out of rear suspension travel and the back tire clears the garage floor. I just searched your gallery for the picture but either I missed it or it just isn't there.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Buzz

[b]In an earlier thread, Patrick, you showed a pic of the front of your car jacked up a few inches which also raised the corresponding rear tire off the ground. You attributed that to frame stiffness - which is partially accurate because it wouldn't happen with a flimsy chassis - but the real story there is an alarming lack of articulation in your rear suspension. If I jack my car up like that, I'm happy to say I need to go a good way before I run out of rear suspension travel and the back tire clears the garage floor. I just searched your gallery for the picture but either I missed it or it just isn't there.

That would be the pic posted below, and this thread: Can Your Cobra Do this?
Re-read the thread, look at the pic again, and tell me if you still think the rear suspension is inarticulate or if you just remembered it incorrectly (note the position of the jack).

[Buzz]

Two *ahem* well-articulated posts from "the thread":

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

This situation really depends on where the jack is along the wheelbase and how much wheel travel in rebound there is at each end. No magic happening here.

Originally Posted by patrickt

That makes sense. If there's a lot of wheel travel the frame could go right up and the wheel stay on the ground. Alright, I'll go back to sleep now....

In fairness, however, the pic doesn't show enough of the upper wheel wells for an accurate assessment of wheel travel and the fact that the frame rail is apparently parallel to the ground does indeed imply a good stiff chassis.

I stubbornly maintain, though, that while the rear halfshaft is showing a little bit of droop, my subjective impression from looking at the photo is that there appears to be a definite, distinct and disturbing dearth of rear suspension articulation.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Buzz

I stubbornly maintain, though, that while the rear halfshaft is showing a little bit of droop, my subjective impression from looking at the photo is that there appears to be a definite, distinct and disturbing dearth of rear suspension articulation.

OK, I'll just go work on my tan and catch 40 winks while I'm at it.

[snakebitekit]

installed both during the build so no experience without. I can tell you cornering with the FIA, with both bars, is like being on a rail.

[Buzz]

Originally Posted by patrickt

OK, I'll just go work on my tan and catch 40 winks while I'm at it.

Post a pic of your immaculate and nicely tanned hands when you're done.

[Buzz]

Originally Posted by snakebitekit

installed both during the build so no experience without. I can tell you cornering with the FIA, with both bars, is like being on a rail.

No doubt it would be an awesome handler as Cobras go, but how do you find the ride comfort in normal driving on less than perfect road surfaces?

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by Buzz

No doubt it would be an awesome handler as Cobras go, but how do you find the ride comfort in normal driving on less than perfect road surfaces?

Driving Impressions

[Dangerous Doug]

And now back to the original question...

Dude, the cost of the sway bars front and rear is minimal to the overall cost of what you are buying. The painted roller is probably going to set you back $50k. Add your engine and you're well over $60k. Why scrimp?

If you need to scrimp a bit, do the scrimping on something that doesn't matter like engine dress-up goodies or foot mats or a Cobra cover---you'll get all this stuff for Father's day or your birthday or Christmas anyway. But don't scrimp on the Cobra components. The engine you can swap out or dress up anytime. Build the roller to be everything is should be. Get the sway bars, front and rear.

Cheers,
DD

[lippy]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Doug

And now back to the original question...

Dude, the cost of the sway bars front and rear is minimal to the overall cost of what you are buying. The painted roller is probably going to set you back $50k. Add your engine and you're well over $60k. Why scrimp?

If you need to scrimp a bit, do the scrimping on something that doesn't matter like engine dress-up goodies or foot mats or a Cobra cover---you'll get all this stuff for Father's day or your birthday or Christmas anyway. But don't scrimp on the Cobra components. The engine you can swap out or dress up anytime. Build the roller to be everything is should be. Get the sway bars, front and rear.

Cheers,
DD

I get that, but it's a matter of doing without several things that can be added later and in total add up to a few thousand bucks. Thanks.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

I get that, but it's a matter of doing without several things that can be added later and in total add up to a few thousand bucks. Thanks.

... and no matter how much you think it will cost, it will still end up costing you more than you think.

[Quik289]

Peter told me to order both sway bars, I did, and I am very happy with the ride and cornering. He steered me right on EVERY option. (He didn't think I needed the rock guard screens on the headlights - said they just catch on your pants as you walk around the car. He was right, but I like them anyway!) I recommend that if you are going to add things later, add things on top of the car, not things you have to get under the car for, drill the frame, etc. You'll be glad you bought an ERA. Good luck!

[tkb289]

Lots of good opinions here and as you are discovering it's almost endless the number of decisions you will have to make.

Trading off performance vs cost, what to have ERA build, what you will build … all the while trying to imagine what the final result will be like and how to estimate the total time and cost of the project.

You are off to a good start soliciting advice and suggestions here from CC and of course listen closely to the sage advice from Peter and Bob. The goal is to have a very short 'do over' list, the planning is a lot of fun.

Most things on the car can be revisited and changed after a while if you find something that is not to your liking. However things like the color, under car exhaust or side pipes, scoops and stripes are best done once the first time.

I went with both front and rear sway bars on my ERA FIA and really like the ride and handling. If you get both now, you very well might find that you are happy with the ride. If it's too stiff, you can take the rear bar off and try it that way. Just my .02

Bottom line, you are right path and wind up with beautiful Cobra.

[Dangerous Doug]

Lippy: I built my ERA 289 FIA and spread the cost out over time. I bought the "basic kit" from ERA with a few key options, and then as I finished one phase of the project I'd call ERA and buy the next phase parts.

My one compromise on my build is that I bought a used engine from a fellow ClubCobra member. I wanted a Keith Craft 347, but it was going to take too long to save up the dough, and I decided I wanted my Cobra running. The used engine has been fantastic, and I only paid $1500 for it (It's a 302 pumping about 340-360 fwhp).

After running the "used engine" for 3 years I decided it was time to either "freshen it up" or get the engine I intended to put into my Cobra. I presently have a Keith Craft 331 short block sitting in my garage and I'm going to build it up over the next six months and install it next winter---pretty much like I built my Cobra. Doing it this way, I spread the cost out over time and enjoy the process of building.

Life threw me a couple of curve balls during all of this process, as life will, and working on my Cobra has been a great escape.

So, my advice is, if you are building the Cobra yourself, as you put it together buy what you need when you need it and spread the cost out. You'll get your awesome Cobra, which is almost as fun to build as it is to drive.

Cheers,
Dangerous Doug

[knelson]

I first just had the front sway bar but shortly after getting my car I added the rear one. The car corners flatter and it helps eliminate any wheel hop under hard acceleration with both. A friend had the same car without the rear sway bar and he complained to me about some wheel hop under acceleration so I am just relaying actual experiences. I have owned my car for 21 years and still love it.