Braking pedal pressure

[wolf k]

How would you guys rate the pedal pressure you have to apply to stop your car abruptly?

I am a little surprised at how much pedal pressure it takes to stop my car with the willwood big brake package. Do not know if I have an issue, or if I am just not used to non-powered disc brake car.

[ERA Chas]

It should be a hard pedal with a firm prod to stop abruptly. Pedal feels inert, with no sinking or soft spots-even repeated hard stops.
The pedal feel remains and you can always modulate.
Take it to a track or remote location and practice using 'em hard. The feel will become quite natural.

[CJ428CJ]

I only have the standard brakes and not the Wilwood package but I'd say the pedal pressure needed to stop the car quickly is "significant" - just like any other manual brake car as opposed to one equiped with power brakes.

Chris

[tkb289]

Wolf,
On 2136 I have the same Wilwood front brake setup, with the outboard PBR brakes on the rear. I also had the same initial reaction, it seems to take a lot more pedal pressure than I expected. That being said, I am getting used to the brakes as I get more miles on the car.

Be sure to bed the pads per the instructions in the manual or on the Wilwood web site. Power assist makes a big difference, but the manual setup with the brake and clutch pedals pivoting from the floor is what was used in the original cars.

Given that the master cylinders sit alongside the frame rail, don't think there would be any way to add power assist. Maybe there are options with different diameter master cylinders? Let's see what Bob thinks.

[Morris]

Pedal pressure is determined by pedal ratio length......and size of the master cylinders....smaller MC is equal to less pedal pressure but more travel of the pedal....

[ratsnst1]

Originally Posted by Morris

Pedal pressure is determined by pedal ratio length......and size of the master cylinders....smaller MC is equal to less pedal pressure but more travel of the pedal....

the smaller the mastercylinder will create more psi at the calipers.a 7/8 master for the front is ideal for all round pedal pressure at the cal.I run a tilton balence bar, keeping the center bearing as close to center is ideal.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by wolf k

I am a little surprised at how much pedal pressure it takes to stop my car with the willwood big brake package. Do not know if I have an issue, or if I am just not used to non-powered disc brake car.

I have the big brakes, front and back, and I have to use a good bit of leg to get to the point where it's just about locking up from high speed.

[COBRANIP]

After spending a day driving a Formula car around Sonoma (Infineon Raceway) (manual brakes) "muscle memory" sets in. Then you get in your rental car and the first time you hit the brakes you just about throw yourself and your wife through the windshield! "Muscle memory" is real! And yes, there is a significant difference between what you are used to in a street car and the old manual brakes.

[wolf k]

Thanks for the replies, pedal is firm, brakes bedded in per instructions, however, discs do seem to have a glazed look. But it sounds like heavy pedal pressure is just the way it is, just have to get used to it.

[Tommy]

I've been driving my manual brake 1963 Corvette for about 35 years, and my manual brake Cobra replica for about eleven years. I find that when the situation calls for maximum braking (e.g., approaching a 70 MPH turn at 140 MPH from the front straight at Roebling Road), I have no problem pressing hard enough to lock the brakes. Motivation and adrenaline seem to compensate for power assist.