ERA optional rear suspension strength?

[lippy]

Does anyone know if the optional ERA rear suspension is stronger than the standard one (i.e., can handle more torque/HP)? If so, any idea how much stronger?

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by lippy

Does anyone know if the optional ERA rear suspension is stronger than the standard one (i.e., can handle more torque/HP)? If so, any idea how much stronger?

yes stronger, I've put 400HP through the back of mine when I decided to play with a supercharger a few months ago

[427 Street]

Stronger...I have about 500hp and 500 lbs torque....you should be fine

[Grubby]

Hold on guys. How could it be stronger, both options use the same Jag 3rd member.

I have had both and the ERA option is very nice and very sexy.

John.

[patrickt]

I have the optional rear, and I'm pretty sure when I chatted with Doug in 2005, the answer was "No, it's not any stronger, just better."

[ERA Chas]

I know of a 580FWHP SB going through a Richmond that drag raced (on BB's). Frequently, will no ill effects.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

I know of a 580FWHP SB going through a Richmond that drag raced (on BB's). Frequently, will no ill effects.

With the ERA standard or optional rear suspension?

[DonC]

Not necessarily any stronger since it uses the same basic components but the geometry it provides makes things a lot cleaner. Most notable is that it keeps the rear carrier indexed under loads reducing/eliminating wheel hop.
One of the best features is the way it looks. Very sexy. Take a look at the photos of it on the ERA web site.
DonC

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by lippy

With the ERA standard or optional rear suspension?

Optional. The 'standard' rear is the Jag. The 'optional' is ERA's. It's either a Jag or ERA's.

[RICK LAKE]

Lippy A normal jag rearend will handle 450hp and 450 torque. This is old spec numbers and doesn't say what the stub shaft spline # is. Could be 19 spline or 27 spline. I know a couple of guys running 19 spline with 700+hp and torque. You can get many years from it. The limits are ABUSE and what kind of tire are you running,( tire wear number).
Lets talk abuse, this is quick. 3,000 rpm clutch drops and the rearend walking in the back of the car will break the carrier for sure or twist the stub shaft spline. These stub shafts are softer metal than chrome moly for the stub shafts. Adding a 30 spline carrier will increase the load factor by 30%. Adding a Watt's linkage would also be a possible opition to help control the rearend movement. You didn't say which rear brake kit you are looking at? inboards or outboard brakes? I really doesn't matter. You can have a 600ft+ of torque. You need the rearend to handle the constance load which is where most of your driving will be. If you want to save the rearend, use the right foot to control the problem and forget about it. I autocross and roadrace, I over built the jag housing with a locker and chrome moly 30 spline stub shafts. It also has a rearcover that supports the caps that hold the carrier in location. 15+ years and have not broken this rearend yet. Abuse, yes alot and running soft tires with a 200 wear. Rolling on and off the throttle will help extend life. I am sure that Doug at ERA will built you a rearend to handle your power specs. A clutch will also help save the rearend if it's soft and has a spring hub for the disc. The rest is suspension setup and alignment. You can also move the power ranges for HP and torque around by where the camshaft is setup. Advance or retard the camshaft timing could add or kill 20 to 40 HP and 10-30ft of torque real easy. Talk to the motor builder. Exhaust is the last thing, depending on side pipes and how much you like hearing. Quieter pipes kill power, up to 50 HP and 40ft of tork. Here enough info to keep you busy for a while. When this is done, we can work on tire pressures. Good luck. Rick L. Ps the word "TOY" was used here. This car is the farthest thing from a toy. We have lost a few guys from the CC family. RESPECT it and enjoy. Also look at possibility of a driver school for a couple of days to get used to the car and understand what you really have. I have about 600ft of torque and 540 HP. An increase from 448ft and 348ft. Car is not as fun as it used to be. Some times less is better instead of more.

[patrickt]

Rick, nice to see you back... and I agree, these cars can be very dangerous and, for a lot of us, less is indeed more.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Lippy A normal jag rearend will handle 450hp and 450 torque. This is old spec numbers and doesn't say what the stub shaft spline # is. Could be 19 spline or 27 spline. I know a couple of guys running 19 spline with 700+hp and torque. You can get many years from it. The limits are ABUSE and what kind of tire are you running,( tire wear number).
Lets talk abuse, this is quick. 3,000 rpm clutch drops and the rearend walking in the back of the car will break the carrier for sure or twist the stub shaft spline. These stub shafts are softer metal than chrome moly for the stub shafts. Adding a 30 spline carrier will increase the load factor by 30%. Adding a Watt's linkage would also be a possible opition to help control the rearend movement. You didn't say which rear brake kit you are looking at? inboards or outboard brakes? I really doesn't matter. You can have a 600ft+ of torque. You need the rearend to handle the constance load which is where most of your driving will be. If you want to save the rearend, use the right foot to control the problem and forget about it. I autocross and roadrace, I over built the jag housing with a locker and chrome moly 30 spline stub shafts. It also has a rearcover that supports the caps that hold the carrier in location. 15+ years and have not broken this rearend yet. Abuse, yes alot and running soft tires with a 200 wear. Rolling on and off the throttle will help extend life. I am sure that Doug at ERA will built you a rearend to handle your power specs. A clutch will also help save the rearend if it's soft and has a spring hub for the disc. The rest is suspension setup and alignment. You can also move the power ranges for HP and torque around by where the camshaft is setup. Advance or retard the camshaft timing could add or kill 20 to 40 HP and 10-30ft of torque real easy. Talk to the motor builder. Exhaust is the last thing, depending on side pipes and how much you like hearing. Quieter pipes kill power, up to 50 HP and 40ft of tork. Here enough info to keep you busy for a while. When this is done, we can work on tire pressures. Good luck. Rick L. Ps the word "TOY" was used here. This car is the farthest thing from a toy. We have lost a few guys from the CC family. RESPECT it and enjoy. Also look at possibility of a driver school for a couple of days to get used to the car and understand what you really have. I have about 600ft of torque and 540 HP. An increase from 448ft and 348ft. Car is not as fun as it used to be. Some times less is better instead of more.

Planning on using the "standard" but strengthened ERA/Salisbury rear with inboard brakes, Classic Chambered sidepipes, and Avons. I won't drag race or abuse the car, but I would like the extra roll-on power at mid-range RPMs. Peter and Bob at ERA tell me the 31 spline upgrade costs almost $2k and probably won't make that much of a difference, and that I could blow up even that with hyper aggressive driving. On the flip side, they seem to think the "standard" rear end is likely to be ok - even with the extra HP of a solid roller motor - if I don't abuse. I guess if I break it, I break it, and shouldn't sweat it too much.

[ERA Chas]

For the record-the 31 spline does make a difference. But heat-treated ring and pinion, side gears and L-19 bolts are vital for total abuse. That makes a difference for drag racing and snap shifts.
As Rick said, if you control the usage, it will live just fine without that.
As Brent says, that's why there's a throttle control.
BTW-a 'solid roller motor' is not 10 megaton bomb in the configuration you're planning.
Glad to see that you have adopted more pragmatic approach-now you're getting it.

[lippy]

Decided on the solid roller motor, btw.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

Decided on the solid roller motor, btw.

When do you think you'll have the car on the road?

[lippy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

When do you think you'll have the car on the road?

I get the kit end of April, painted, and the engine in May, +/-. From then I'm figuring on a year to build it, but if it takes longer, no problem. So that would probably be summer 2014.