Follow up on ERA 717 part 2

[mrmustang]

Let's keep this thread civil and respectful so it does not get shut down like the last one, please.

I'll use this new thread to document mileage and usage, along with whatever little items I find or tweak as time progresses.

Between taking the ride last Tuesday and the trip to Freehold, NJ yesterday, I've logged 364 miles in the car. Oil usage has been zero to date. Hoping to add mileage as the week progresses.

Something I did notice while setting the car up for my trip on Saturday that the left rear tire had lost almost 9lbs of pressure (cold readings early in the AM both times). Checked tire for leaks and punctures with none found. Turned out it was the competition "screw in" valve stems that had come lose and backed off. Checked all of them and they were all loose about 2-3 full turns. Tightened them up, aired up all the tires to 33lbs cold (playing with pressures from 28-32lbs for street driving), and after checking them this morning (after the 200 mile trip) and no pressure lost.

After my valve stem sudden loss issue when I first got ERA234 (took a 38 mile trip and had a valve stem let loose while parked at Washington State Park due to dry rot and age), I should have known to check them when I first brought ERA717 home, but did not. Just one more item to add to my list of things to check when I first get a car from now on.


Have a great day.



Bill S.

PS: Found an interesting little item hidden on the car, a simple on/off switch turned to "off", flipping it produces no noticeable changes, when I have time, I'll backtrack the wiring.

PSS: Need to add a power outlet for my phone/GPS, any idea where I can safely tap in to the stock harness for this?

[ERA 778]

The stock wiring should have a wire for a cigarette lighter (white wire from fuse #2) that is not used. Also, if there is no heater, there should be a wire for the heater blower (light green wire - fuse #3). I put a double outlet (from JC Whiney, I think) and a single one in mine. The double is off the light green line, so hot when the ignition is on; the other is hot all the time.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by ERA 778

The stock wiring should have a wire for a cigarette lighter (white wire from fuse #2) that is not used. Also, if there is no heater, there should be a wire for the heater blower (light green wire - fuse #3). I put a double outlet (from JC Whiney, I think) and a single one in mine. The double is off the light green line, so hot when the ignition is on; the other is hot all the time.

Excellent information (I had yet to look at the wiring schematic), no heater currently installed (subject to change per "she who must be obeyed" ), think I'll use the cigarette lighter wire.


Sincerely,

Bill S.

[kevins2]

Hi Bill,

If the numbering on the wire harness hasn't changed, the lighter is #21 and the two wires are white and black. I picked up a stainless steel accessory outlet and drilled a hole in the bottom flange of the dash and installed it out of sight.

Regards,

Kevin

[CHANMADD]

Good luck with it.......

[mrmustang]

Just a quick update, had time to take the car out today (after replacing all four sidepipe mounting bolts after one disappeared on my way to the local ice cream shop last night ), to date, we have driven 460 miles, no oil usage detected.


Bill S.

[347stroker]

Interesting! Good luck Bill!

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by mrmustang

Just a quick update, had time to take the car out today (after replacing all four sidepipe mounting bolts after one disappeared on my way to the local ice cream shop last night ), to date, we have driven 460 miles, no oil usage detected.


Bill S.

Drive that baby and keep us updated. That's amazing, no oil usage after nearly 500 miles.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Drive that baby and keep us updated. That's amazing, no oil usage after nearly 500 miles.

I think it's fixed and is now a done deal. I use about a third of a quart in 500 miles and think nothing of it.

[flaflier]

If you are not using any oil in an FE, then it's broke.. need to get it checked!

[madmaxx]

My last new cobra engine burned about a quart every 700 miles. It did get better to about 1300 miles with time. My old lexus with over 100k miles has 9k miles on oil and it has used about half a quart. In the oil is cheap, as long as you don't use a quart between fill ups in a weekend toy I think you are good to go.

[RodKnock]

Well, I have to say my Kirkham burns no oil just like Bill's ERA717. Burns no gas either.

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Well, I have to say my Kirkham burns no oil just like Bill's ERA717. Burns no gas either.

So, you check your oil......for mold?

[mrmustang]

559 miles, car is down a little over 1/4 quart of oil (fresh off this afternoons road trip, oil in top end may or may not have drained into pan yet, will check cool later))...........



Bill S.

[DonC]

Bill:
I always give it about 30 minutes after a run before I check the oil level to give everything a chance to drain back down. Checks sooner than that will give you an indication of gross oil loss but 1/4 of a quart down can easily be attributed to oil still in the system. 1/4 qt. is 8 oz. or 1 cup of oil. Not a whole heck of a lot when you consider a 7 or 8 qt. total system
DonC

[madmaxx]

Don't forget oil expands when it gets hot. Slippery slope as to when to check, when ol is cold or when it is engine operating temperature. We need to do modeling of volumetric change vs temp coupled with drain back rates. I wonder if the drain holes are polished and flow is laminar when draining.

[mrmustang]

Still shows between 1/4-1/2 low, closer to the 1/4 mark. According to Canton tech support, it is an 8 quart Canton "15-820" road race pan. Figure another quart in the filter, and just about a quart in the oil lines and oil cooler. Still not to shabby considering I have a drip at the pan gasket (ordering a better gasket today) when cold, not sure of when hot and under operating pressures......

Also about time to retorque the intake manifold, so I'll do that today. Change the oil pan gasket when it comes in next week, and maybe steam clean the undercarriage if I can talk my friend in to using his lift and steam cleaner on a slow afternoon Still sticking with the 10W40 as I have plenty of oil pressure and see no reason to go back to the 20W50 full synthetic.


Bill S.

[DanEC]

Being a little more familiar with Chevy engines over the years, I remember the rule of thumb from years ago for 427/454 motors was 500 miles or more per quart - still within GM's normal use range. They wouldn't hardly look at a motor under warranty that wasn't using more than that. Modern motors are a marvel considering their low oil use.

[madmaxx]

I did a lot of useless testing with oil viscosity. Bottom line for 10wt jump I gained 5 psi hot at idle. All were the same at wot. 10w30vs10w40vs20w50. I ended up with 10w30 per builder. In the end I want the oil flowing through the components vs over. It was really transparent on the rocker arms with 20w50 vs 10w30. The 20w50 just overflowed where the 10w30 went through.

[DonC]

If I remember some previous conversations correctly re: Canton 8 qt pans, the pan capacity is 7 qt with the 8th qt being the filter, cooler, lines etc. IE an 8 qt system. Not sure if this is correct since my memory has more holes than swiss cheese anymore but worth some investigation.
DonC