ERA #776 - Pressure Plate destroyed / Clutch disk sliping

[OROBBE]

Hello,

I've bought ERA #776 few months ago which has now 2800 miles. It's equipped with a 390FE stroked to 445CI and a TKO 600 - Lakewood bellhousing - Mc Leod Dual disks clutch.

I met problems with the transmission one week ago when gears were hard to shift. I've changed gearbox oil but it was the same.

Then I've checked the clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinders and I've seen that the fork was in pressure with the second master cylinder.

I know that it's not a normal condition. I should find little wear between the fork and the second master cylinder rod.

For info the previous owner didn't install a spacer between the block and the second master cylinder (I've seen that some ERA owner have installed a spacer and it's specified in ERA assembly manual).

Now when pushing on the throttle pedal with gears engaged the clutch disks spin and the engine overrev...

I've stopped immediatly and when checking under the car near the fork I've seen that the scews of the pressure plate are destroyed. I suppose the throw out bearing too...

Now I have to replace the pressure plate, the clutch disks, the throw out bearing and find why I met this problem.

What is the solution ? Do I need to remove the engine ? Or can I just remove the gearbox after removing the seats and the tunnel ?

Thanks for your help.

OliveR

[mrmustang]

Removing the seats and tunnel will allow you access to remove the transmission. The engine does not have to be removed.

Why did it happen so soon, perhaps the wrong clutch pressure plate and disk were installed for your engine/transmission set up.


Bill S.

[Grubby]

Reread the ERA manual. A spacer is not always needed. That is to cure a specific situation.

"Most clutch pressure plates won't require the spacer
shown below. Some, however, have tall fingers that move
the fork connection forward. The spacer moves the slave
assembly forward and inward, correcting the alignment.
If the alignment is still off, the corner of the aluminum block
can be ground so that the slave bracket can be rotated
slightly."

Quoted from ERA manual.

I don't use the spacer and have no issues. 12,000 miles and all is well.

John

[ERA Chas]

Support the rear of the oil pan before you remove the transmission. Remove the driveshaft first, then speedometer cable.

[OROBBE]

OK guys, thanks very much for your quick replies.

I'll desassemble tomorrow and let you know but I'm sure a (or some) wrong part(s) were installed by the previous owner and now I have to repair ....

OliveR

[OROBBE]

Well that's ok I've desassemble the gearbox and the clutch and what I've seen is not beautiful....

On the kit which was installed there was an aluminium plate attached on the flywheel. The pressure plate was attached to that aluminium plate.

And that was the problem. The screws have been tear away. Why ?

Maybe bad material at factory ? Screws tighten too much when installed ?

I strictly don't know but now I have to order that aluminium plate only.

The pressure plate is ok, the clutch disks are ok and the flywheel is ok.

My clutch kit is a McLeod. I don't know if I just can find/buy that aluminium plate ?

Any suggestions about what happened ? If I can buy that plate ?

Thanks,

Pictures:



OliveR

[DanEC]

This must be a dual plate clutch? Seems like an unusual problem. Hopefully someone can shed some light on the issue.

TTT

[Jaydee]

Looks like it's been slipping for a while with all those hotspots. Maybe the last owner liked to drop the clutch too much causing the shearing?
JD

[strictlypersonl]

We'd recommend returning to a single-plate clutch. Identify which flywheel you have from this page.

[blykins]

The clutch is a McLeod RST twin disc. Overkill for anything under 550-600 hp.

At this point, the adapter plate would be cheapest to replace...you'll end up spending $400-500 for an equivilent single disc clutch.

[OROBBE]

Hi Brent,

That's it I'd like to replace ONLY the "flywheel Ring" but I don't know where to buy it ????

I've seen on McLeod web site that the new "flywheel ring" are different and seem to be stronger than mine. Maybe because I'm not the first one to have this problem....

Can you provide me that part ?

OliveR (I still don't have installed the 482CI.....)

[blykins]

Let me email them and see if I can get a price.

What engine and transmission is this on?

Poor little 482. I hope you're priming the pump and turning the engine over frequently. Very hard on them to sit for years.

[OROBBE]

Brent, my engine is a 390FE stroked to 445CI with a TKO600.

For my 482 .... I never turned it.

What do I need to do now for him ? put some oil in the cylinders via the spark plugs holes and make it turn ?

OliveR

[blykins]

I'll get a price.

Yes, at least....

I would prime the oil pump, shoot some oil into the cylinders and turn it over by hand.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Support the rear of the oil pan before you remove the transmission. Remove the driveshaft first, then speedometer cable.

Why did you mark your crank and bearing with a magic marker?

[OROBBE]

Maybe he has a 428 crank with external balance (on the flywheel) and must reinstall the flywheel exactly where iy was.

OliveR

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by OROBBE

Maybe he has a 428 crank with external balance (on the flywheel).

OliveR

No, you can see from the oil galley that he has a Side Oiler.

[OROBBE]

But he can install a 428 crank .. with external balance , no ?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by OROBBE

But he can install a 428 crank .. with external balance , no ?

And make the 454 combo. I know that he didn't do that. I was just wondering why he marked what looks like the Oillite bronze pilot bearing. Chas. is pretty anal about this stuff, so I'm betting he had a reason....

[blykins]

All Ford flywheels are clocked....they will only go on one way. I always spin them around so all the holes line up, then mark the crank and the flywheel so they will go back on quickly.