Installing a Race Screen

ERA2076 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-30-2013, 12:59 PM

We are rewiring my car and have the dash out of it. I purchased a race screen from Nick at Acton. I want to make the screen removable from the top, such that the two screens could be easily be switched.

Has anyone done this on an ERA? We are thinking of some kind of flange permanently attached to the bottom of cowl with sleeves and nuts attached to the flange. The sleeves would act as crush sleeves to protect the glass.

Is there an easier way? Are there any suitable fasteners that would be trusted inserted directly into the glass?

x-cliff

ERA Chas · #2 (**permalink**) 10-30-2013, 01:30 PM

Can't picture exactly what you want but ERA's have a 'double wall' construction under the cowl. It's not just a thin layer of glass across the cowl.

mickmate · #3 (**permalink**) 10-30-2013, 02:39 PM

I have seen these used. Some guys have painted them and then painted small screw in plugs so you can barely see them when they aren't in use.
McMaster-Carr
I have install tools for them if you decide that's the way you want to go.

ERA2076 · #4 (**permalink**) 10-30-2013, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Can't picture exactly what you want but ERA's have a 'double wall' construction under the cowl. It's not just a thin layer of glass across the cowl.

Yes - I was thinking of using tubular sleeves that extend all the way thru both walls to keep from crushing anything. They would be welded to a metal flange and the metal flange would be screwed or bonded to the bottom wall of the cowl. The sleeves would extend up thru the voided area to the top surface of the cowl. Drop screws down thru the sleeves and thread into nuts that were welded to the bottom of the sleeve.

I like the serts Nick posted. Much, much, easier, but I am concerned about robustness. Anyone have any direct experience using them in glass?

chr

Kramer · #5 (**permalink**) 10-30-2013, 03:55 PM

I have this exact setup. PM if you want and I can give you details on how mine is set up. The short story is ERA had placed in small rivet like holes with internal threads so I could just bolt in when I run the windscreen ... Went its off all you see the the threaded rivets which look ok even when my normal windshield is on

ERA Chas · #6 (**permalink**) 10-30-2013, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA2076

I like the serts Nick posted. Much, much, easier, but I am concerned about robustness. Anyone have any direct experience using them in glass?

chr

Lot of work to do your sleeves but should work. Those steel serts are plenty strong but can be a b!tch to compress-the glass is very thick there IIRC.
Jus sayin'...

strictlypersonl · #7 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 06:43 AM

I would rather use this design and countersink from the outside so that the inserts are flush to the outside surface.
McMaster-Carr

mickmate · #8 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 07:17 AM

Good point Bob that would make them really nice and flush. You can see in his link they make them for plastic and all kinds of material applications. How thick do you think the body is there Bob? They are available for different thicknesses. I have added a video at the bottom of the windshield showing an installation of one. You can see it if you scroll to the bottom and visit "this products webpage" here.
Comp Screens Comp Screens [427 289 CSX CCX KMP ACE HT SPF] - $225.00 : Acton Custom Enterprises, Custom Metal for Cobras

DanEC · #9 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 11:31 AM

Mickmate - I know I could not quite get the nuts to engage on the threads of the windshield washer nozzles that mount on the cowl of mine if that gives you an idea. I had to grind a little fiberglass away underneath to get a couple threads to catch.

ERA2076 · #10 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

How thick do you think the body is there Bob?

Drum Roll.............................................. ......??????????????????

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

I have added a video at the bottom of the windshield showing an installation of one.

nice - it looks more secure than I imagined - x

I'll check the thickness (thanks Dan - the dash is out I'll pull a wiper spindle)

Anyone know if the cowl of some constant nominal thickness?

ERA2076 · #11 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kramer

I have this exact setup. PM if you want and I can give you details on how mine is set up. The short story is ERA had placed in small rivet like holes with internal threads so I could just bolt in when I run the windscreen ... Went its off all you see the the threaded rivets which look ok even when my normal windshield is on

Thanks Kramer - the holes don't bother me when it is off.

PM Sent

mickmate · #12 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 03:02 PM

I like the idea of the countersunk ones but the thin head has a longer reach/grip range. It should have tape across the bottom of the bottom band that is about the same thickness as the heads. Good pics at the bottom of this page.
Ribbed "K" Series | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools

ERA2076 · #13 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 03:18 PM

Measuring thru the defrost vents

Cowl Thickness

Drivers .287
Passenger .330

mickmate · #14 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 03:41 PM

Can you get to the back of the holes to countersink them a tad? I think those 130-225 grip range will work good with the 10-32's.

ERA Chas · #15 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA2076

Measuring thru the defrost vents

Cowl Thickness

Drivers .287
Passenger .330

Yeah-That's what I remember, not consistent.

ERA2076 · #16 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 04:33 PM

Is aluminum a worry - we like the wedges under the flange. We would look at counter boring so top was flush.

Quote:

Wedges under the flange hold installed nuts tight, so they won't move when you apply torque to a screw. Install them in a drilled hole with an air-powered tool (required, see 92894A700 and 94675A111). Made from aluminum. Thread class is 2B.

Thread 1/4"-20
Drill Size 25/64"
Material Thickness 0.165"-0.260"
Body
Diameter 0.390"
Length 0.680"
Flange
Diameter 0.500"
Thickness 0.030"
Maximum Installed Length 0.380"

McMaster-Carr

ERA2076 · #17 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Can you get to the back of the holes to countersink them a tad? I think those 130-225 grip range will work good with the 10-32's.

Possibly - some of it appears double walled so a bit of a project.

DanEC · #18 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 04:55 PM

Hand laid fiberglass. Probably have to allow +/- 1/16 inch in most circumstances.

ERA2076 · #19 (**permalink**) 10-31-2013, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Hand laid fiberglass. Probably have to allow +/- 1/16 inch in most circumstances.

Yea I see that - maybe we we have to go under the bottom to get everything to fit.

Bore (counter sink) from top for sert flange thickness and then adjust total thickness from the bottom

Still - more straight forward than my original plan.................... maybe.

the joy