Starter/Flywheel Damage - Help Need Advice

[Large Arbor]

[Large Arbor]

One more.

[Large Arbor]

Everything came out relatively easy. The transmission actually felt light as I just pulled on it, turned it a little and lifted it into the front drivers side floor. I then lifted it out of the car and set on wood blocks. It had ARP bolts holding the flywheel on so I had to borrow some sockets I did not have. The teeth on the flywheel were not that bad, but now its out except for a few. So, I will be getting a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and maybe throwout bearing, and oh yes, a new starter. My plan is to bolt up the block plate, attach the starter with the flywheel on and see how it all fits up. If that works then put it all back together. I need to find the torque specs on the flywheel and clutch plate so if anyone knows, please share.

Phil

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

I need to find the torque specs on the flywheel and clutch plate so if anyone knows, please share.

I'll scan that sheet out of the Ford Service Manual and post it for you. BTW, most of us remove those little weights that are on the fingers of the Centerforce clutch. They tend to cause more problems than they fix. Another ERA owner had a page a few years ago dealing with just that. I'll see if I can find it and post a link. If you're replacing the PP anyway, then it doesn't really matter, I guess. Blykins says Centerforce stuff is overpriced crap, but what the heck.... (That's what I have in mine.)

[ERA Chas]

Flywheel / 85. Clutch pp / 22.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Flywheel / 85. Clutch pp / 22.

... perhaps a dab of Loctite? Blue? Red?

[Large Arbor]

Green?

Phil

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Green?

Phil

Apparently that was too much for Chas. I should have asked him "Should Phil use the Loctite that matches the color of the pills the nurses give you in the morning, or the ones they give you at night?"

[ERA Chas]

Used none. Affects torque rating. Just clean threads and NO ARP thread lube!
Been on track plenty-nothing breaks...
You should aspire to the senility I've acquired Village Idiot.

[Large Arbor]

Ok, so I am looking at Ram or Mcleod for replacement clutch and pressure plates. Need one with 26 splines. Any model numbers come to mind? If I switch clutch brands, will I have to go through readjusting for movement?

Phil

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Ok, so I am looking at Ram or Mcleod for replacement clutch and pressure plates. Need one with 26 splines. Any model numbers come to mind? If I switch clutch brands, will I have to go through readjusting for movement?

Phil

I would go through Brent (Blykins) and see what he recommends. I like McLeod clutches myself although the one I have (standard 11 inch diapragm) is a bit heavy on pressure. But most of that is dependent upon the hydraulics. Per ERA, a standard pressure plate should be fine since we are dealing with pretty light cars. If you have some extra cash and would like a nice, light pedal, a dual disc clutch would be the thing to have. There is a little bit more set up to install.

And yes, you will need to readjust because the disc thickness will be different, flywheel might be ground, etc.

[Large Arbor]

Mcleaod 11 " Clutch and Pressure plate and throw out bearing ordered. $380 out the door. Ugh. Alignment tool another $10. New torque wrench and 12 Pt. socket for the ARP bolts and now to sit back and wait for parts to arrive. Seems like no one stocks standard FE stuff.

Phil

[FWB]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Mcleaod 11 " Clutch and Pressure plate and throw out bearing ordered. $380 out the door. Ugh. Alignment tool another $10. New torque wrench and 12 Pt. socket for the ARP bolts and now to sit back and wait for parts to arrive. Seems like no one stocks standard FE stuff.

Phil

hehehehe, i quote the local race shop owner in my area..

"what, i can never make any money off you Ford guys, i only see you once every 5 years, and it for a hone and a re-ring"

he had a stack about 6 high of small chevy blocks in inventory. speaks volumes

[MOTORHEAD]

If my memory serves me (and it rarely does), I don't think a stock ford starter will fit a shelby block. I tried it (many years ago ) and i seem to recall it hit the side of the block , the block being different in that area..

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD

If my memory serves me (and it rarely does), I don't think a stock ford starter will fit a shelby block. I tried it (many years ago ) and i seem to recall it hit the side of the block , the block being different in that area..

Will a Ford OE starter fit a Shelby Aluminium Block?

[MOTORHEAD]

Thanks Pat for clearing that up! Guess my memory is still semi-functional ! You do have a talent for ferreting out obscure information.

[DonC]

"So, I will be getting a new clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and maybe throwout bearing, and oh yes, a new starter." A new TOB will be pretty inexpensive and it falls into the same category as "as long as you've got it out." Very cheap insurance as opposed to redoing everything for a $35 part down the road.
DonC

[patrickt]

... and while I'm in there, a new transmission, new stroker crank, pistons... ok, maybe a little head work, new cam....

[Rick Parker]

For all involved: The only Threadlocker used on "Anying" attached to a Cobra should match the color of your blood. And that is NOT a racist statement.

[Large Arbor]

Ok, so I got a Robb MC starter and it fits great. However following the wiring diagram, the starter does not disengage. As soon as I turn the key on, the solenoid on the firewall reads 11.6 V at the ignition wire. Is this suppose to be this way?

Robb MC suggest running the positive cable (battery side) on the firewall connected too the starter bendix side and a 10 gauge wire to the firewall solenoid opposite side of batter post. I do this and the bendix spins with the key on. Anyone have a Robb MC starter, and if so, how did you wire?

Phil