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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2014, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Your problem of the intermittent jumping around sounds like it could be the end of the tranny gear. If I am right, it will get worse as the square drive gets more destroyed until just won't work at all. The good thing is this gear was designed to be the sacrificial lamb, that is why it is plastic and cheap
My initial success reveresed upon pulling the reverser apart and cleaning it out and lubing it with break in lube. Everything topside is lubed, graphited and shimmed to close tolerances, so I suspect I'm losing my plastic gear in the transmission. Anyone remember which speedometer gear goes with a 3.31 rear - 18 tooth??
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2014, 06:54 PM
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Correct - 18 tooth (green tip)
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2014, 06:57 PM
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Correct - 18 tooth (green tip)
I think if I had eighteen green-tipped teeth, I would opt for porcelain veneers.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2014, 07:39 PM
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Correct - 18 tooth (green tip)
yup, that's it
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2014, 09:15 AM
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I have had the same problem with my speedo. Bouncing needle and stripping the plastic gear.

I have found out that the speedo housing is made of a very thin material. If I move the cable the housing flexes and the speedo can even get stuck.

The cable must come straight into the speedo. I have not tried to fix the cable in the right position yet. But I will.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2014, 09:21 AM
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Default But what about TKO-600s?

I've seen threads over the years always recommend lubing the cable and most of the posters do not differentiate between Toploaders and Tremecs. Tremec TKO transmissions pump the fluid up in to the cable itself. There are a lot of threads with people complaining that they have transmission fluid leaking frrom their speedometer connection with their TKO600. So my question is, "If you have a Tremec TKO-600, is there any point in lubing your speedometer cable in view of the fact that the transmission fluid is being spun up in to the cable anyway?"
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2014, 03:40 PM
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See this thread: Lubricating the Smiths Speedometer Cable To Stop Needle Bounce for the successful use of Dri-Slide to eliminate the needle bounce.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2014, 06:56 PM
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Interesting. I lubed my heavily with graphite powder and shimmed the cable back towards the transmission gear and it is better but not perfect. As I accelerate it swings a little but once I'm in fourth and cruising along at 40 mph or more it settles down and is pretty stable. If it starts to get worse I will try some dri-slide.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2014, 08:00 PM
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I know you have a top-loader, but on an ERA car with the Tremec TKO, the hardest part of the job is getting the hold down bolt back in on the side of the transmission. There's just not a lot of room unless you have really small hands. You have to kind of do it with the ends of two fingers -- this picture makes it look like it's easier to get to than it really is. I put a dab of orange Torque Seal on it so I can visually check it in the future.


Last edited by patrickt; 10-28-2016 at 09:52 AM..
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2014, 06:00 AM
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On my Toploader the cable snakes through a hole in the emergency brake handle bracket and I concluded it would be toough or impossible to pull it and the gear out from underneath. So, I will have to pull the transmission tunnel eventually.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2014, 10:37 AM
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Default Smiths Electronic Speedo

In 20 years I'm on my 3rd cable. I think I've had 1 plastic gear at the trans end strip. I had one geared reverser at the speedo end fail.

Although the current set up has lasted about 5 years, I still get some needle bounce below 15 mph.

Before spring, I plan to purchase an electronic programmable Smiths gauge from APT Instruments Inc. It eliminates the cable, and uses an electronic pulse sending unit.

David
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2014, 05:46 PM
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On my Toploader the cable snakes through a hole in the emergency brake handle bracket and I concluded it would be toough or impossible to pull it and the gear out from underneath. So, I will have to pull the transmission tunnel eventually.
It will come out and the gear can be replaced no problem from underneath the car. No need to remove the tunnel. i had it out 3 times in one weekend. A little frustrating and not the easiest thing to do, but very doable!
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2014, 04:56 AM
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It will come out and the gear can be replaced no problem from underneath the car. No need to remove the tunnel. i had it out 3 times in one weekend. A little frustrating and not the easiest thing to do, but very doable!
Is your's run through the parking brake lever mount plate? I'll take another look at it but it sure looked like I would have a difficult time getting it out of there due to the tight space between it and the transmission tunnel.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:56 PM
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Is your's run through the parking brake lever mount plate? I'll take another look at it but it sure looked like I would have a difficult time getting it out of there due to the tight space between it and the transmission tunnel.
I don't remember because it was over a year ago. I cant get it on the lift for a while because my mustang is dead on it at the moment. It did go thru something that was a PITA, but I do not remember if it was the parking brake or not. When do you need to know by? I will be doing a bunch of work on it this winter and I can give you a definite answer as soon as I get it back on the lift
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2014, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
I don't remember because it was over a year ago. I cant get it on the lift for a while because my mustang is dead on it at the moment. It did go thru something that was a PITA, but I do not remember if it was the parking brake or not. When do you need to know by? I will be doing a bunch of work on it this winter and I can give you a definite answer as soon as I get it back on the lift
David - no hurry. My speedometer is doing better with the work I did on it. I will probably try to pull the plastic gear this winter to check it and may try to pull it from underneath first. If that doesn't work for me then nothing ventured, nothing gained - I'll pull the tunnel out.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2014, 05:41 AM
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I have the Tremec 3550 version and agree with Patrick that the hold down bolt that holds the cable into the transmission is a bear to get to. It completely loosened and came off on mine. I thus replaced it with a stainless steel phillips head bolt that I used and self tapped it into the aluminum housing. It holds very tight now. To remove it I found it was easiest to loosen the tunnel section to enable me to see it. Once I see it I can reach it with a long screwdriver. Since I have the SW gauges though, I have no speedometer issues exept my speed reads higher than what I am driving. I may see if I can get this recalibrated / gear changed in the winter. Metro Speedometer out of I think St. Louis said they could correct it.

Phil
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